Search results

Such rapid progress. Makes me feel tired just watching! You putting 50mm insulation on the roof? That’s what I have on ours and I think it’s def worth the effort in the ceiling.

I think fridge technology is surprisingly basic. The amount of food you have in the fridge is definitely a factor in how much cooling is needed, not so much from the thermal capacity of the items but the airflow. I think the manufacturers just go for a middle ground probably.

230V or 12V?

In something like this order: deter those who would want to break in sound a significant alarm if doors forced sound a significant alarm if entry is gained and they rummage inside slow down/deter anyone trying to drive it away if they succeed then see where they've taken it

Thanks, guys. After a bit more pondering I think I'll just go down the tracker route.

Yes, but I gather one of the benefits of some of the really expensive ones is that they have an internal siren which is so loud that you physically can't stay inside the vehicle. I can see the point of that, I suppose - but it's a lot to pay for that.

My van is based on a 2020 Relay with the factory alarm and immobiliser. People say you should fit a 'better' alarm and talk about systems that cost £600-£1,000 - but I'm not seeing the value. You usually fit an expensive alarm to a coach built, because the habitation door isn't on the factory...

Just noticed your signoff line @Bouydog why use one screw when six will do...... I had a friend who worked for GWR, when that was what they called. He was chief engineer for one area and they apparently had the saying at the time: never use 3x4 when we've got 6x8 in store

I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question, but you've had more sun up there than we've had down south (Essex coast). Feels like it's been grey murk most days, and I've only had a few days of any sort of decent solar in Dec and Jan so far.

I went for a bead all around the edge and a circle in the middle. The theory is - the bead around the edge stops water getting behind it - if you take care to expel the trapped air within the circle in the middle you get a vacuum to help it stick and stay stuck. That's the theory, anyway

I admire people who do multiple builds. My first (and so far, only) build took me lots longer than I thought and gave me very painful knees! But I do miss the buzz of achieving something interesting.

Do you know at what rate it should charge itself? Just wondering if maybe it's actually drawing more than 13A. My Volvo can charge from a 13A socket, but also from a faster, dedicated charge point (which we had fitted). I'm wondering how it knows what it's connected to? But great to see...

Why's that? I've set mine to 100% when I'm confident the batteries are full.

Christmas and New Year visits from the kids/grandkids cancelled cos of Covid..... Dark all day as well as all night.... Too wet to work in the garden.... No new toys to play with.... Even the dog is fed up.... So what else is there to do apart from read interesting manuals :sleep:

Yup... LB -> shunt -> earth bus bar -> chassis earth (At least, that's what my wiring diagram says. I'll double check next time I'm with the van!) Ah ha. I'll get onto it. Thanks

I've set the sample rate to once per minute, which is the maximum you can have. It will miss transients, but I don't think that's likely to be a problem in this case: if there were short-term variations they would show now and again. IIRC the BMV is earthed via a busbar connected by a short...

It's a 2020 Relay. Yes, I was a bit surprised to see nearly 15V but just assumed that was the way it was....

I'm a Mac shop, sadly, and I don't think VE.Connect runs on Mac. Maybe I should resurrect my 20 year old laptop - though goodness knows what version of Windows it runs!

Yes, that was a reason I liked Victron. Just a shame that it's not 100% consistent and integrated, but I think the VRM stuff is great.

Ooh, that looks fun. Didn't know about that....