Violating a Princess!

trevskoda

Full Member
I think you should have shotblased the steel and sprayed with weldable epoxy primer,bare steel is covered in blue scale which lets go,thats why big boats are left to rust before being blasted and primed,this was my main biz.
oil tank.jpg
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
You are correct Trev, but remember I'm working in a housing estate. There is only so much you can get away with outside. As I've typed before the steel that would most benefit from shot blasting is impossible to get at without stripping of the body. Yes hot rolled hollow section mill scale will flake off in time, that's why I allowed it to rust a little. I've also used galvanised and Zintec, both of which should be etch primed. It was originally epoxy primed, but still corroded under it. It was also fully wax oiled and where the steam cleaner didn't reach it's still there.
Mucky has had it's entire sub-chassis replaced around 13 years ago and showing no signs of rot. Yes each year we cold wash it's bottom and touch up any suspect paintwork.
If I'd have had my way I'd have built a new one from a 6 series sprinter chassis bulkhead. Anita wouldn't pay for it. :(
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
Slow progress, but it is progress. Bags and air chambers removed to aid cleaning and painting. Structure has been added to have a gas locker on the left hand side and a home for the calorifier on the right hand side. The Gas locker will be panelled on the inside to help with the inevitable rough handling of the gas cylinders. The Calorifier home will just have celotex bonded into the frame.
Whilst I was under there glass fibre repairs were done to the wheel boxes. Coach operators run cheap tyres that blow out often it seems.
IMG_0034.JPG
IMG_0035.JPG


Insulation sheets. It looks like the standard thickness used with the expanded polystyrene was 40mm. So an easy replacement. To level the glass fibre roof I wanted a 20mm sheet so I could cut 40mm wide spacers to attempt to level the roof. I didn't like the idea of trying to cut 20mm slices of the 40mm. I don't really need the insulation at the moment, but the delivery costs make it sensible to buy all at once. All I wanted now was the 20mm. So all the insulation sheets turn up today. No 20mm!! substituted with 25mm!!

IMG_0037.JPG
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
Calorifier turned up today, so a test fit couldn't be resisted. It's going to be snug, but it'll be ok. Once installed any space around it will be stuffed with insulation.
Also a trial fit of a gas cylinder. Again snug for two cylinders, but it'll be ok. The access door will be on the outside. Unfortunately a bracing bar will cross the door opening. Something that will have to be lived with. The cooker will not be far away, so the gas pipe run will be short.
IMG_0045.JPG
IMG_0046.JPG
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
Where practical I've been stuffing the roof with the 40mm PU insulation. Yes cutting the 20mm strips by hand. I bought an insulation hand saw, it works better than expected. Though hard work pushing it through thicker sections.
Whilst working on the roof I thought it was time for another Maxxfan. http://www.rainbow-conversions.co.uk/rooflights-vents/maxxair-maxxfan-deluxe-roof-vent-fan-with-remote-control.html It seems to be a popular product as I've not been able to find one at a sensible price, unless I want it in white.
Whilst working out what will fit where I purchased a cooker extractor. https://leisurelines.net/dometic-ck400-cooker-hood-5090-p.asp I don't think it came from these people, but it arrived broken. Not the end of the world, but they had no replacement stock. :(
I've not given it much thought, but overhead lockers need to be designed and made. (when will it ever be finished?)

A couple of action shots of Anita fabricating the garage floor outer supports for me to weld in.
IMG_0050.JPG
IMG_0053.JPG
 

BusBoy

Free Member
That's the best way. Strip all the panels off.
How do you get the side skirt around the batteries off? I had to cut it in half. Also had to cut the cab as the panel below the windows was rivetted to the front edge of the box behind the cab.
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
Any more pics, I'm converting an 05, surprised at the state of the box section inside and how difficult it is to remove panels.
Have you discovered the appalling way the engine bay isn't sealed from the cab? You probably know better than me now, but the stainless panels appear to be attached with double sided foam sticky tape!
 

BusBoy

Free Member
Have you discovered the appalling way the engine bay isn't sealed from the cab? You probably know better than me now, but the stainless panels appear to be attached with double sided foam sticky tape!
Hadn't noticed that yet, upgraded from an 811 thinking I wouldn't have to deal with rust, how wrong was I?
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
How do you get the side skirt around the batteries off? I had to cut it in half. Also had to cut the cab as the panel below the windows was rivetted to the front edge of the box behind the cab.
I'd have drilled the rivets out, I'm yet to tackle the battery box metal work. Go slow and think about how they connect stuff. It will save you time in the end.
BTW welcome to stupidity, or heroics :)
 

SquirrellCook

Full Member
Hadn't noticed that yet, upgraded from an 811 thinking I wouldn't have to deal with rust, how wrong was I?
It will be worth it in the end. Just be careful about the steel you use and adding weight. Also the long runs can distort the body like you'd never imagine.
 

BusBoy

Free Member
I'd have drilled the rivets out, I'm yet to tackle the battery box metal work. Go slow and think about how they connect stuff. It will save you time in the end.
BTW welcome to stupidity, or heroics :)
Is it possible to contact you directly, can't see a way to message on this?
 
Top