Search results

They sold it at Gladycross 25 years ago along with a red diesel pump, couldn't believe my eyes!

Never buy crimping tools from Radio Spares !!!

It does warn in its spec not to exceed 35amps stall current, but I thought it only loaded the panels for how much current it wanted?

Just a word of warning and I'm sure you spotted it too. Pin out numbers and or positions are far more useful. Colours can and often are random. And a read a little further and the same point has been made, I'll crawl back in my hole.

From my bad maths you'd have a few watts to spare, from experience the hotter the panels get the worse they perform. So I think you'd be safe. My best solar yield has been in the UK.

At the moment we are 24 volt base vehicle with 12 volt habitation. 24 volts is provided by two 90ah 12 volt batteries each having it's own 7ah 12 volt charger. 12 volts is via two 220ah 6 volt batteries, charged in series with the same 7ah 12 volt charger. As the distances and locations are very...

I can see the benefit of 24 volts on large current drain items. Though some items are really stuck on 12 volts, for example. Toilets, roof fans, cooker extraction hoods, smaller range of water pumps, radio's and tv's Batteries I would normally only ever charge as 12 volts, so in parallel not...

As I was inspired to think about this after reading another comment on it. Personally "Murky" is 24 volt base vehicle with 12 volt habitation wiring. The New build "Betty" again is a 24 volt base vehicle, but nothing has been done that would steer me one way or another. What are your opinions...

I hadn't thought about the clutch pedal switch, but I've never worked on a vehicle with cruise control and a manual gearbox. What ever cruise control you have, it will need a speed signal. Be it from an abs sender or a speedo generator,

If it's the same fly by wire setup as the Vario's, apart from the stalk it shouldn't be too hard. I would first talk with a Mercedes service centre. Mark

I tried a small self contained camera, but it could not be triggered behind glass.

With regards to Galvanising, I expect the steel is treated before being worked. One method is to use a zinc powder in the final rolling stage and press it into the steel. It's cheap and affective. No heat or corrosive chemicals.

Looks crisp.

You biggest problem is knowing that you've coated everything well. Cavities that are not exposed will really only be exposed to condensation. I've read about complaints about dripping when it gets hot, but I'd be happy to swap dripping for rust. The other worry about internal cavities is if it...

I'm think of something along those lines for the plaxton conversion.

Before you get too depressed use a stick to guess the angle of the sun before it casts a shadow on your panels. I expect it would be so low that the panels would not work well anyways. In an ideal world the sun should strike the panels at right angles for best performance.

What I had in mind was to mount 3 cameras in the cab. You can buy commercial systems, but they seem to be too expensive for a low resolution system. We ran a test with a motion triggered stand alone device, it seems they don't trigger behind glass. My idea is to use small domestic type cameras...

I'd rather it work from 12 or 24 volts, saves running an inverter 24/7. I expect the wifi reaches to the extend of our property, well I hope so as some of the new cameras that are going to be fitted need setting up in place.

Although I don't condone direct action, I think it will escalate to it. Even if it's only posting images of them on social media. This weekend half the roof tiles are being stripped from our building and then the roof is being boarded over before retiling. Not a cheap exercise and not easy...

Here's one for some of you expert tinkerers. Due to security issues I've been having where I store my Motorhomes, I thought that some of the answer might be to put CCTV in them. We have wifi in our works and have just managed to watch the outside cameras via the internet. Waste of time really...