What rust inhibitor do you chaps use?

Vanterrier

I am intending to coat the internal cavities and panels of my 2010 Ducato 6.3M PVC with a rust inhibitor as despite its age, it's very low mileage and still in excellent condition and as I intend to keep it a few years I don't want to have to fight rust later, as I had to do with my previous 2004 van.

I can see a number of products all making similar claims but vastly different prices ( for a 5lit. Container)

Do you have any direct knowledge or experience of these or can you make further recommendations.

Bilt Hamber Dynax s50 - £60

Hammerite waxoyl - £30

Noxudol 900 - £22

Dinitrol - £?

K ;)
 
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SquirrellCook

Forum Member
You biggest problem is knowing that you've coated everything well.
Cavities that are not exposed will really only be exposed to condensation.
I've read about complaints about dripping when it gets hot, but I'd be happy to swap dripping for rust.
The other worry about internal cavities is if it tracks into wooden finishes?
Let us know in 20 years if the one you chose worked. ;)
 

Vanterrier

As a DIYer I know I will not get a professional finish using a sprayer on a compressor, it's the internal cavities I am aiming at as my last van had sills that rotted from the inside out. They looked great from an outside inspection. What made that van worse was water ingress into to cavities via some pretty poor conversion work. The Windows and door apertures were nibbled out originally and all the swarf/cuttings had been allowed to just drop into the cavities. The edges were not treated and rusted making for poor sealing which let water in which rusted all the cuttings and rotted through from inside. Pretty shoddy for a premium converter I thought (IH).
There's no wooden finishes anywhere near I believe.
It will be a seriously messy job and as you say plenty of drips at first but worth it in the long run I hope. Not sure about 20 years though 😀
K ;)
 

Millie Master

Forum Member
Well @Vanterrier this is something that anyone who knows me on here will never normally hear me saying, but in all honesty you don't need to apply any kind of rust inhibitor to any Sevel built van as from 2007, they have all been fitted with fully galvanised bodies.

The Renault built vans which included the Vauxhall & Nissan variants were the first vans of the types to have fully galvanised bodies from the 2004 model year onwards.

Possibly the only parts of your van that you might want to apply inhibitor to would be items like the spring hangers and indeed any other heavy duty metal that has been attached to the main body shell during the production cycle.

Of the product manufacturers that you list in your original post, these days in the classic car circles the company that holds an amazingly high place for quality and eficiancy of product is Bilt Hamber and having used them myself for several years I can personally vouch for their superb range, so take a good long look at their very informative website.
The Dynax S-50 spray is truly amazing, in all of my years of tooling around with cars I have never previously experienced a product that has the ability to penetrate impossible locations. It goes on ultra thin and then evaporates and is brilliant for using in box sections and hidden door bottoms. For all more exposed areas the Dynax UB or UC (the same but one os black and one is clear) is the stuff to use.

They also make a cleaning solvent that is for me the be all and end all product that you dilute with water down to the strength you need it, it is called Surfex HD.

One of the big ++++ of Bilt Hamber is that it is a British company and they are very helpful.

As an ex Land Rover owner, [ersonally I got fed up to my back teeth with Waxoyl as it is so out of date and honestly very questionable with regards to performance................... why oh why do so many people including myself, when using this stuff, did we have to re-apply the entire underside on an annual basis?

Phil
 

Vanterrier

Cheers for that Phil ;) well I didn't know that the body is galvanised on mine. That would explain why I could feel no roughness around the wee holes in the sill when I removed a couple of bungs and stuck my wee finger in to inspect.
I agree about waxoyl which is why it was not my automatic choice but I added it to my list to see if anyone would sing its praises in case I was missing something.
Bilt Hamber is widely praised as you say but I have not previously used it myself.
Maybe I can relax a bit now. Thanks again for that
K ;)
 

Millie Master

Forum Member
Its only electro galv and not hot dip,but it will extent the life.

You might know better than I do Trev., but what type of galvanising is applied to the Renault Master and OK I know the make we are discussing here is a Fiat Duck manufactured in Italy, but are they likely to have similar types of galv.?

If they are similar, then my 08 Master is still amazingly clear of rust, there only being a relative few scabs where flying projectiles have punctured the surface.

Phil
 

Vanterrier

I wonder how well electro galv gets into nooks and crannies?
Maybe I might get a few spray cans for the cavities?but by the time I pay for those... Feel like I am talking myself into doing the job anyway... resist, resist 😤
K 🤔
 

Millie Master

Forum Member
Well if you use the Dynax S-50, the tin comes with two different lengths of extension tube and I use the longest one of these as it makes spraying inside the base of the driver/passenger doors so very easy as all you have to do is feed the lance in through the drainage holes along the bottom.

One thing is for sure 'K', it's better to be safe than sorry...... good luck to you.

Phil
 

mistericeman

Forum Member
I wonder how well electro galv gets into nooks and crannies?
Maybe I might get a few spray cans for the cavities?but by the time I pay for those... Feel like I am talking myself into doing the job anyway... resist, resist 😤
K 🤔

IF its anything like JLR s 'phosphate' dip.... It gets in to pretty much everywhere as the whole shell is fully immersed in a tank whilst being electrically charged to attract the phosphate dip.

As above Waxoyl is very very dated compared to, dinitrol/buzz weld products and Bilt Hamber products....
Tech has, moved on drastically and modern products have greater creep/and self healing properties etc.
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
With regards to Galvanising, I expect the steel is treated before being worked. One method is to use a zinc powder in the final rolling stage and press it into the steel. It's cheap and affective. No heat or corrosive chemicals.
 

trevskoda

Forum Member
IF its anything like JLR s 'phosphate' dip.... It gets in to pretty much everywhere as the whole shell is fully immersed in a tank whilst being electrically charged to attract the phosphate dip.

As above Waxoyl is very very dated compared to, dinitrol/buzz weld products and Bilt Hamber products....
Tech has, moved on drastically and modern products have greater creep/and self healing properties etc.
Toyota did this in seventys and there cars rusted,they said it was the poor steel we sent them,maybe so and yes things are much better now,but i would still treat any car van i bought as prevention is better than cure.
Yes waxol is a tad out dated and many new anti rust chems are on the market with self heal properties.
I use a parafin wash gun and small compressor,this in some cased requires carpet and trim removal to get the stuff in but well worth it.
 

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