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From here.... (if this is the same model you have) .... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.bestekdirect.com/system/storage/download/MRZ3011HU-300w-pure-sine-wave-power-inverter.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj1ncCyw9_4AhXQS0EAHVYdDlUQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0fq-aQjtouVgKOx27maM2g

Exactly what bit me on the bum with the ones I had planned on using.... I was slightly gutted as they seemed like fantastic quality kit.... Ended up with Victron after a brief flirtation with Ring. IF someone has got panels with a voltage the Ctek can use.... They won't be disappointed with these

Didn't think a VSR would correctly charge a lithium battery?

I have to say.... I wouldn't EVER use one of those smartcom relays as a split charger... I've fitted several in the past to landrovers etc (before the durite ones came out) and they all failed in short order.... Maybe OK as a fridge relay BUT definitely to be avoided as any means of split...

https://brocott.co.uk/smartcom-voltage-sensing-split-charge-relay-12v-30amp/

Each to their own BUT I'd have bought a gun/can for £20.... And saved myself a hell of a mess.

The cans are hopeless.... The pro guns and cans work far better (I have one for work with intumescent foam in it for fire stopping etc.... Far more precise and easier to use I never clean the gun.... And it can be months between uses

Rage chop saw every time.... It'll cut all sorts with one blade and depending on the model all sorts of fancy angles.... Not sure I could do without mine now.

Not much different to most government agencies.... Money for old rope and no one to account to.

Have you left the gas drop out vent open? I can block ours up when I get around to it as there is a separate one for the gas cooker (after removing the redundant gas line from the isolation manifold under the cooker) I could have capped it with a compression fitting/brazed it shut.... As...

Can't say I've ever had an issue with the 12v side of things myself either (in all my years of messing about with vehicles and running 12v stuff....) Even some of the half cocked stuff I did whenessing about with mobile radio gear etc... In fact the only 12v leds I've ever had fail were some...

Only usually a factor as far as initial loading or taking items out then replacing them.... Other than that, energy use between full/empty is frankly negligible. it's a static load as food in there itself doesn't actually generate any heat load.

I don't have a great deal of faith in alarms... No one seems to pay much attention to them... Disklok (ideally modified) Hidden Fuel cut off Hidden Electrical cut off Make sure nothing expensive left on show.... Frankly IF they, want it.... They will take it Best bet is to make the next one...

If the conduit is sufficiently supported/clipped all should be well... The chances of the wires vibrating enough to damage the conductors will be minimal.... The conduit will prevent the biggest danger to the insulators in terms of physical damage.

Look for horse box locker catches.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Locking-Compression-Latch-Lever-Lock-Horsebox-Trailer-Locker-Doors-Tack-Box-/283895594767?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Possibly BUT it will depend on how the evaporator is configured (different manufacturers lay it out in different ways) So it's possible that you will be able to fine tune it to just cycle the running times on a reduced basis so only cool the fridge (and freezer) rather than it running long...

You could always fit an electronic stat to give closer control by reading the temp in the freezer compartment...switching power to the compressor And deal with the fridge stuff being 'cold' Frankly domestic fridges (certainly none twin electronic stat/twin compressor ones) are always a bit of...

Often by measuring the fridge temp and allowing cold air to cascade to the fridge section (colder air heavier)from the freezer And hoping for the best....if its a fridge freezer combined (ie not separate doors) Ones with fully separate freezer compartments will still usually read off the...

Sounds to me like you've got thermostat issues.... (It's not one of the modern ones that have external temp sensing as well internal (reduces the duty cycle of the compressor to maximise efficiency) The outside temperature really shouldn't cause great problems for a small domestic combined...

More down the the refrigerants ability to move heat from one place to another and the condenser coils ability to dissipate it at given temperatures.... On fan cooled condenser coils you can use head pressure control to prevent over condensing at low ambients.... Not really necessary on small...