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Are you saying he should clean his bottom and make sure the holes are clear?

What stops the water boiling in your heat exchanger?

The idea for the non-return valve on the cold feed to the hot water tank is to reduce heat being lost into the cold pipe. I'm sceptical about this, but also not sad enough to prove it. For the sake of a cheap valve I see no harm in it. Just remember you will also need an expansion vessel in...

I normally only use two. One on the hot side of the water eberspacher to stop reverse flow when the engine is running. The other one is on the cold feed to the calorifier. The idea is to stop heat back feeding the cold supply.

Here we go with the next instalment of what seems to be a never ending saga. Finally we have blown air heating, still to sort out the combustion side plumbing though. As I expected it bleeds too much hot air out of the back of the water heaters. Some lite weight flappy type valve required. I...

My best harvests have been in the uk. And why not, as our air is so much cleaner than Europe. Too many Europeans burn wood for heating and fill the sky with ash! But seriously, having a cooler panel improves efficiency.

That would be a better option on Betty, as I have BMV 712 in the battery box along with it's display.

Yes I can see that if you only use it in the winter it will address your needs. We like to go out all year round. The calorifier, though expensive make life very easy if you size it carefully. It will keep the water hot for well in excess of 12 hours. Built into the engines coolant system...

I've just had a look and think you'll run into problems. (please prove me wrong) 1. Restricted air flow, not helping long circuits. 2. Having to run a heating system on a hot summers day. 3. Legionnaires disease, due to not heating the water enough. Some of these I had to address on the...

What is the extra box on the end of your heater?

Just when you think you are winning. The winning bit first. Murky developed a noisy water pump on it's M12 ebespacher. Not the end of the world as very easy to change. The £260 plus is not so nice. Webasto use the same pump and can be a little cheaper. Still unhappy with the price I found...

My swivel base was much cheaper I think it came from a commercial seat supplier. The swivel is for the co-pilot seat. The driving seat I have is air. KAB714.

Mine is a coach, so a bit more of a pain.

It might do if the controller is part of the seat.

This morning sheet material arrives from Latham's. All 0.26 tonnes of it. Now it's stuck in the door way until we have time, weather and space to work with it. 12mm for the garage floor and entrance step. 6mm for the inner shower room walls. 3.6mm for the roof and wall paneling.

Thicker carpet.

I only have one 2kw eberspacher in Murky. Ducting just down one side with two outlets. More in an insulated small van might be a bit much.

Have you considered just having a short run just down one side? As it’s a narrow van the air should propagate to the other side. On the Betty build I have a similar air circuit to you, but with more torturous bends. The ducting is also dual purpose. In the air eberspacher mode I’m not...

That's the easy answer and what was done for the traveling seats in Murky. As it still has some Unwin rails, belted coach seats were the easy answer. For the Betty build I want more.

The worst I've driven are some of the car derived vans where the pedals are pushed forward in the car version and still in the van when you want to push them down. Back to motorhome seating I think it's the convertibility of them that makes them bad. I'm hoping to address that for the Betty...