AC Fridge In Campervan -.Power Consumption Test

wildebus

Forum Member
sorry, maybe it is me but I don't understand if you are asking a question, providing information or what, but your posts do not make any sense :(
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
100 ltr at 240v AAA rated fridge compressor runds in the camber of the road, draws 50 amps or less in july a day 5am to 9.30 pm and you can put the inverta on timer.7 day timer via a relay .

I have neither 12v or 240v in my empty van build.
I have a 12v 110ltr compressor fridge with freezer compartment, over a 24hr period it uses 45amps. The tests Dave has done show similar power use. If/when my fridge packs up I will replace with domestic
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Put my fridge on yesterday. Setting No3 no idea about the temperature at the moment as a ladder has taken up residence in front of it.
Batteries were at 90% this morning and it seems to use about 6 amps when running. That's the total shown by the BMV with a bit of quick arithmetic deducting the charge current.
 

Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
I have a 12v 110ltr compressor fridge with freezer compartment, over a 24hr period it uses 45amps. The tests Dave has done show similar power use. If/when my fridge packs up I will replace with domestic
So if it's no more power needed then it must be the way to go 2020?
 

xsilvergs

Forum Member
Just add a little worthless information, our motorhome has a Thetford Fridge Freezer model: lN3150 (Warning, never buy a Thetford). This is a 3 way fridge/freezer unit with separate freezer compartment.

I haven't measured DC current whilst driving, but today while working on the AC part of my project I was measuring energy consumption. At around 240 V AC the current draw is one amp, when the temperature is down to the required level and the thermostat goes OC the AC current draw is zero.

I now wonder on the benefits of running this from an inverter whilst driving.

On a sunny day the solar could supply more than enough to power the fridge/freezer thus saving gas.

Any thoughts appreciated.
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
240 watts is a hefty load, it would be worse through an inverter. They won't work for free!
I'm guessing mine is using around 80 watts including the inverter whilst it's cooling.
 

xsilvergs

Forum Member
240 watts is a hefty load, it would be worse through an inverter. They won't work for free!
I'm guessing mine is using around 80 watts including the inverter whilst it's cooling.

Yes but it's not 240 W all the time and if 400 Watt's of Solar Panels are sat there doing nothing and there's enough sun to get 240 W, think of the gas I'm saving and the diesel I'm saving not having to drive to the garage to refill the bottle.

I used the fridge as a load as I was trying the code to monitor AC consumption into the van, I just thought I'd add to this thread. Also as it totals consumed I can set the limit so I never have to pay for electricity over and above that included at some sites.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Just add a little worthless information, our motorhome has a Thetford Fridge Freezer model: lN3150 (Warning, never buy a Thetford). This is a 3 way fridge/freezer unit with separate freezer compartment.

I haven't measured DC current whilst driving, but today while working on the AC part of my project I was measuring energy consumption. At around 240 V AC the current draw is one amp, when the temperature is down to the required level and the thermostat goes OC the AC current draw is zero.

I now wonder on the benefits of running this from an inverter whilst driving.

On a sunny day the solar could supply more than enough to power the fridge/freezer thus saving gas.

Any thoughts appreciated.
So around 23A (inc losses when running via a 12V Battery) then?
For the limited use, you could get a cheap Inverter of around 300W (as no compressor, no need to worry about in-rush surges) so around £30 mark.
You would need a way to only have the inverter running when the engine was running - maybe a simple relay powered by the D+ Alternator signal (or maybe Ignition would be ok) - say £5.
So in terms of saving gas in money terms, how much gas would £35 buy to cover what you would use when driving?
But you might need to upgrade the B2B size to cover the additional power demand?

But there is another option you could consider .....
Get yourself a BIG inverter - say 1000W and connect that up to the Starter Battery (again externally controlled by D+/Ignition) and you could connect that upto the Fridge AND a Smart Mains Charger - which would give you a nice B2B function as well as powering the Fridge.
You could then also maybe monitor the Mains Charger in some way (Hall-effect sensor monitor?) and feed that into the system as your B2B input?
 

wildebus

Forum Member
I get the desire of using excess solar and what I have done in my van is have my Water Heater (2kW element) controlled by the Victron BMV Relay - it will switch on automatically when the Battery SOC is above a certain level (93% I think I have it set to?), so making some use of that extra harvested energy :).

PS. What device are you using to monitor the AC?
 

xsilvergs

Forum Member
So around 23A (inc losses when running via a 12V Battery) then?
For the limited use, you could get a cheap Inverter of around 300W (as no compressor, no need to worry about in-rush surges) so around £30 mark.
You would need a way to only have the inverter running when the engine was running - maybe a simple relay powered by the D+ Alternator signal (or maybe Ignition would be ok) - say £5.
So in terms of saving gas in money terms, how much gas would £35 buy to cover what you would use when driving?
But you might need to upgrade the B2B size to cover the additional power demand?

But there is another option you could consider .....
Get yourself a BIG inverter - say 1000W and connect that up to the Starter Battery (again externally controlled by D+/Ignition) and you could connect that upto the Fridge AND a Smart Mains Charger - which would give you a nice B2B function as well as powering the Fridge.
You could then also maybe monitor the Mains Charger in some way (Hall-effect sensor monitor?) and feed that into the system as your B2B input?

I've seen the Bestek on Amazon for about £30.

I do prefer pure-sine, the Victron ones take my eye, quite efficient, good ECO mode and I think they can be paralleled (so long as the first 3 or 4 digits are the same).
 

wildebus

Forum Member
I've seen the Bestek on Amazon for about £30.

I do prefer pure-sine, the Victron ones take my eye, quite efficient, good ECO mode and I think they can be paralleled (so long as the first 3 or 4 digits are the same).
I bought this one last week as a little basic one for test purposes - https://amzn.to/2B5RSuB
It is an Amazon own-brand one but is actually a Bestek one really (probably the sister inverter to the one you saw but slightly cheaper?). For a cheap inverter I am pleased with the build quality although I will be cutting the cigar lighter connection off and adding a more substantial connector
That unit is on a special deal for next 40 minutes BTW - under £25 right now (I paid £28 last week :( )
 

xsilvergs

Forum Member
I get the desire of using excess solar and what I have done in my van is have my Water Heater (2kW element) controlled by the Victron BMV Relay - it will switch on automatically when the Battery SOC is above a certain level (93% I think I have it set to?), so making some use of that extra harvested energy :).

PS. What device are you using to monitor the AC?

I had considered about 80% as my AGM starts to tail off then as it's going into Absorption (I think), perhaps higher when I've checked.

I use these, very accurate or a wide range. Add an ADC and a Wemos D1 Mini and it's on your WiFi :)
https://uk.farnell.com/dfrobot/sen0...D-COMPUTERS-NEWSTRUCTURE-Test113-MarinBidding
 

xsilvergs

Forum Member
I bought this one last week as a little basic one for test purposes - https://amzn.to/2B5RSuB
It is an Amazon own-brand one but is actually a Bestek one really (probably the sister inverter to the one you saw but slightly cheaper?). For a cheap inverter I am pleased with the build quality although I will be cutting the cigar lighter connection off and adding a more substantial connector
That unit is on a special deal for next 40 minutes BTW - under £25 right now (I paid £28 last week :( )

What current draw is there when it has no load on the output?
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
If that was pained red Dave I would say it was my Bestek 300w unit. I did post what mine used when plugged in but no load a bit back. Got stuff on at the moment so cant check but I think it was either 0.1 or 0.2 amp
 

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