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As I read it the windows requirement was a minimum. What bothers me is the number of doors required. Though I do have an emergency exit, I guess that counts as a door to the habitation area.

No Dave, I'm not singing the praises of the PWM devices. Quite the opposite. Some of the claimed MPPT ones I had purchased proved to be PWM in their behaviour. Since buying the Victron MPPT I'm more that happy with it. It does what I would have expected and more.

Please don't think for one moment Dave that I'm trying to belittle you. My mastery of our language is poor at best, and I've been told I can offend unintentionally. As I've said before I admire what you do and your dedication to it. It just reminded me of a UPS test demonstrated to me many years...

Is it not that simple using a power supply to mimic a solar panel? Please correct me if I'm wrong. You don't measure a panels potential yield by multiplying the OCV by it's Short circuit current. All the controllers I've looked at will adjust the charging load to collapse the voltage to a...

They sold it at Gladycross 25 years ago along with a red diesel pump, couldn't believe my eyes!

Never buy crimping tools from Radio Spares !!!

It does warn in its spec not to exceed 35amps stall current, but I thought it only loaded the panels for how much current it wanted?

Just a word of warning and I'm sure you spotted it too. Pin out numbers and or positions are far more useful. Colours can and often are random. And a read a little further and the same point has been made, I'll crawl back in my hole.

From my bad maths you'd have a few watts to spare, from experience the hotter the panels get the worse they perform. So I think you'd be safe. My best solar yield has been in the UK.

At the moment we are 24 volt base vehicle with 12 volt habitation. 24 volts is provided by two 90ah 12 volt batteries each having it's own 7ah 12 volt charger. 12 volts is via two 220ah 6 volt batteries, charged in series with the same 7ah 12 volt charger. As the distances and locations are very...

I can see the benefit of 24 volts on large current drain items. Though some items are really stuck on 12 volts, for example. Toilets, roof fans, cooker extraction hoods, smaller range of water pumps, radio's and tv's Batteries I would normally only ever charge as 12 volts, so in parallel not...

As I was inspired to think about this after reading another comment on it. Personally "Murky" is 24 volt base vehicle with 12 volt habitation wiring. The New build "Betty" again is a 24 volt base vehicle, but nothing has been done that would steer me one way or another. What are your opinions...

I hadn't thought about the clutch pedal switch, but I've never worked on a vehicle with cruise control and a manual gearbox. What ever cruise control you have, it will need a speed signal. Be it from an abs sender or a speedo generator,

If it's the same fly by wire setup as the Vario's, apart from the stalk it shouldn't be too hard. I would first talk with a Mercedes service centre. Mark

I tried a small self contained camera, but it could not be triggered behind glass.

With regards to Galvanising, I expect the steel is treated before being worked. One method is to use a zinc powder in the final rolling stage and press it into the steel. It's cheap and affective. No heat or corrosive chemicals.

Looks crisp.

You biggest problem is knowing that you've coated everything well. Cavities that are not exposed will really only be exposed to condensation. I've read about complaints about dripping when it gets hot, but I'd be happy to swap dripping for rust. The other worry about internal cavities is if it...

I'm think of something along those lines for the plaxton conversion.

Before you get too depressed use a stick to guess the angle of the sun before it casts a shadow on your panels. I expect it would be so low that the panels would not work well anyways. In an ideal world the sun should strike the panels at right angles for best performance.