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Let me know if not..... I can always post you a spare hole saw (if you already have the holesaw) or the complete thing with arbour.... And you could pass it on to the next person that needs it as and when. Let me know.

102mm or ish (big enough for a turret to go through) Here on a arbour in Manchester if you want a, borrow chap.

I use a syringe to suck fuel from tank to the pump.... Then to push diesel from the pump line to the heater inlet. Massively reduces pfaff with priming

They look like black painted panels to me....

You've met that one as well then.... ;-) I wasn't referring specifically to the chaps YouTube clip BTW.... It was just a general reference to some folks out there.

I guess a square hole is, easier if you don't have a 100mm hole saw to hand.... As I posted above I do... And am happy to lend it to anyone that needs to borrow it (as I've done several times) And I agree there's few things more irritating than trying to remove a diesel heater that's been...

By the way I have a 100mm/4" holesaw here (Manchester ish) if anyone needs to borrow one.

I wouldn't personally be drawing combustion air from inside the van.... There is no advantage that I can see.... Your either cutting a 100mm hole to fit the mounting turret OR 2 smaller holes. As I've said several times already on this, post combustion intake noise is a large contributer to...

I've run a genuine eber d2 for the last 5 years or so.... All year round wise.... I despise being cold.... And my other half is from Yorkshire.. Even she doesn't complain about me having the eber running 24/7 for 2 weeks or so when we are away at Christmas etc.... That alone speaks volumes...

Diaphragm punp so no won't syphon back (at least iny personal experience) As for used oil.... Unless filtered to remove contaminants and cut with lighter diesel/kerosine ... I wouldn't inflict it on a diesel heater (other than a drip feed heater) Frankly the damn things use so little I...

I wrapped mine in rubber and mounted it in a insulated 'munson ring' I've got to have my head next to it to hear it tick.

Ever driven a vehicle with no air filter on OR an aftermarket K+N cone type.... Car makers spend a huge amount of effort to design intake filtration that also reduces intake noise without reducing flow. I'm constantly amazed that folks complain about eberspacher heaters being noisy and not...

YES the chinglese exhaust silencers make a good difference (though I have to the the genuine ones even more so) The Chinglese inlet ones generally need chucking straight in the bin... I reckon close to 50% noise reduction (none scientific MK1 human ear) with a genuine eberspacher inlet...

Take my word f Take it from my own personal experience.... The chinglese silencers (inlet and exhaust) Are miles away from the genuine items.

The genuine eberspacher one has slightly different design BUT largely the same effect..... I find I cant hear my heater running from beyond a metre away with genuine eberspacher inlet and exhaust silencers. The chinglese intake silencers are hopeless some are barely more than a plastic...

1mm slitting blade in grinder/or thin disk in dremmel works well on the exhaust ;-)

Anyone fancy putting their faith in this...

Absolutely..... Sadly paint tech is still sketchy at times.... Each to their own etc.... I'll always use mechanical and sticky for fixing panels.... It's not much hassle for extra peace of mind.

The victorians were famous for over engineering.... I like the victorians ;-)

I'm sure you'd struggle.... However there are cases where you possibly could. I don't mind a bit of risk to my own life/limb....(messing around in long abandoned mines etc etc) But the thought of a panel detaching from my roof and going through someone's front screen leaves me cold.... I...