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30! I got 60% doing that once.

With such a wealth of talents on this and it's sister sites (excluding those bad toilet humour or practises) I'm sure that someone could paint a window with translucent paints to give the same effect. Could be a nice little pocket money job for someone.

Just ask dvla.

Two things jump out at me now that I've had a chance to watch your video on a better screen. Why is is your water connection at the bottom of your water tank? If you have a leak you loose the lot. The other thing, and I guess this is a commercial project. The timber used doesn't appear to have...

Give these people a try Chris, Alliance Transport Technologies The Arc, High Street Clowne, Derbyshire S43 4JY OTHER CONTACT DETAILS: SALES@ALLIANCEELECTRONICS.CO.UK 0114 247 7041

I guess your best helper would have the same vehicle and be willing to swap out the module to prove the suspected fault.

I wonder as I mentioned before, is not the output from an inverter neither or either live and neutral? To make one live and one neutral, the neutral has to be tied to ground.

The door closing will operate some kind of switch. In turn the switch will communicate with alarm, central locking and door open warning if fitted.

Have you tried operating the door switch by hand?

When I refitted my 608 I used HM Foam in Calne. I asked for Coach seat grade foam. As the seats converted into beds. They told me I would find the foam too firm for a bed, I insisted that's what I wanted. Even though the 608 is long gone, some of that foam is in use today. The made up...

As my Betty build is such a huge project I worry that some of what is done will bore people to death.

I think it’s a little late for you, but with my 608 I inherited leaky sky lights. No amount of sealant cured it for any length of time. Then the penny dropped, I set about the opening with some mole grips and turned up a lip all the way round. Technically I don’t think I ever stopped the leak...

If you are trying to fix the curve in a plastic panel, you’ll need to heat it evenly over the whole curve. Some plastics take a long time for the heat to soak through, so be patient.

I think as you learn your vehicle and make sure you understand it, the less tools you’ll need to take with you.

Version 1 of Betty's jacking legs was just too complicated to make, install and service. So version 2 has been drawn up.

I'll be using the mix on demand system Trev. It's a lot less work. I was thinking a strip up each side then do the middle. It will have an insulation border 25mm thick, so if I get that level it'll be a rough guide. Just hoping the concrete man will hang around 3 hours for it to be barrowed...

I’ve not seen or used the piloted drills before and can imagine them being horrible to sharpen by hand. As for splitting the point it’s quite easy to do, and very worthwhile. What I find a problem is, seeing the drill bit to sharpen it. I’m afraid that I won’t even attempt a 1mm bit now.

I have the heater now, but another project has taken over. We're building an extension on our works. Neither Anita or I are builders, so very slow. Soon it will be time to pour the floor. I'd like to bring someone in, but then it's the expense of having it removed only to pay someone again...

That's the idea. I've done this in Murky. If I isolate the engine from the heating circuit I can add to the Blown air heating by using the water eberspacher. So in a worst case, I have two forms of heating.

We carry a mains powered drill, though I think it was only ever used once. When you buy drill bits, check they cut before taking them away with you. Modern drill bits from the well known brands seldom cut. I often have the sharpen them first. Also make sure they are ground with a "split point"...