Violating a Princess!
- Thread starter SquirrellCook
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SquirrellCook
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They do work well, but we have to think about the plastic waste. Another thing I found that works well on automotive plastic is Milton's. I discovered this whilst flushing the water pipes into the sink. As I was running the water I thought I'd have a bit of a mop around. I was pleasantly surprised.It still amazes me how good wet wipes are at cleaning the dash area
SquirrellCook
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Sometimes weather conspires against you. A couple of weeks ago I had some new window people remove some more glass. Very quick and the glass was intact. Better than me Then it rained and of and on continued to do so. Making it very difficult to repair the frames. The other problem was painting the aluminium panel for the shower room. This I had to do outside due to lack of space. Finally got it done today, fly’s, oil spots and the wrong paint. I asked for semigloss and got textured. I thought on the first two panels I painted it was me, but no it was the paint. Oh well only sad people will notice. I just need to clean the mastic of the glass and call the window people to fit them again. Slow progress, but still progress.
Then it rained and of and on continued to do so. Making it very difficult to repair the frames. The other problem was painting the aluminium panel for the shower room. This I had to do outside due to lack of space. Finally got it done today, fly’s, oil spots and the wrong paint. I asked for semigloss and got textured. I thought on the first two panels I painted it was me, but no it was the paint. Oh well only sad people will notice. I just need to clean the mastic of the glass and call the window people to fit them again. Slow progress, but still progress.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
It doesn't seem like a lot, but it feels like a big hurdle cleared to me. Now that the glass and aluminium panels are in place I can continue to insulate that side and think about building the shower room / WC area. I have already blacked out the lower part of the windows to allow for better privacy and to install the demisters. Being a lot of inside work it also limits my excuses for not doing it.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
I'd like to have it good enough to MOT this year, but that's hoping.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Big plans for the weekend, don’t do it! It can lead to disappointment Even the toilet was purchased to make a start on the shower room.
I realised that some panelling hadn’t been bonded, but before that insulation and wiring was required.
Not a small job and it didn’t go well. I used dry lining boxes for the sockets and have done before. The sockets I chose did not allow for the box sticking out. I have a fix, but it’s over kill. To my shame I did look for those 70’s socket bezels, but fortunately I couldn’t find any.
Once all this was in place I thought this would be a good time to fire up the Multiplus. No power at the sockets. So check all the wiring again, all good. Time for the multimeter, no volts from the multiplus. I even took the plug apart and all good. Neon screw driver lights up, but I’m not touching it with my tongue! VRM shows it inverting and displays voltage, but none to be found.
So much for the shower room.
Even the toilet was purchased to make a start on the shower room.I realised that some panelling hadn’t been bonded, but before that insulation and wiring was required.
Not a small job and it didn’t go well. I used dry lining boxes for the sockets and have done before. The sockets I chose did not allow for the box sticking out. I have a fix, but it’s over kill. To my shame I did look for those 70’s socket bezels, but fortunately I couldn’t find any.
Once all this was in place I thought this would be a good time to fire up the Multiplus. No power at the sockets. So check all the wiring again, all good. Time for the multimeter, no volts from the multiplus.
I even took the plug apart and all good. Neon screw driver lights up, but I’m not touching it with my tongue! VRM shows it inverting and displays voltage, but none to be found.So much for the shower room.
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SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Low and behold the Multiplus made enough mains voltage to turn an electric drill this morning. I guess last night it didn't want to play.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Working inside Betty this weekend brought it home that I have a problem with the heating. No it’s not what you would expect. It’s getting to hot! Because the heater is in the step it draws to much cold air from outside. I’m using the heater’s internal temperature sensor to regulate it, so it is getting confused. I’m not moving the heater, so I guess I’ll have to install a room thermostat. Better to discover these things now.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
This is what I'm using.
This should be the fix.
This should be the fix.
wildebus
Forum Member
I was wondering which as some of the Eberspacher controllers have a temp sensor built into them but the standard wiring doesn't use them by default. If you had that type, could save the hassle and expense of adding an extra one? just need to connect the relevant wires together (I did this with my Eberspacher Airtronic to use the sensor built into the 801 controller. I can't remember exactly what wires you mess with thoughThis is what I'm using.
This should be the fix.
)The info on the one you have includes the following info .... "If external remote temperature sensing is required other than the one in the timer, please use specific Easystart temp sensor 22.1000.35.2100, may need programming." Which suggests to me that has a temp sensor in it also?
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
The original controller I had in Murky had a separate temperature controller, but it was close to a window and I had better results with the heaters built in sensor.
This new controller that only works with the latest canbus heaters needs an extra sensor. In hindsight, I would have put the controller further down the bus away from the door. I forgot about how much air the doors leak. So I will play around with limited locations for the sensor. I could extend the wire, but I'd rather not.
This new controller that only works with the latest canbus heaters needs an extra sensor. In hindsight, I would have put the controller further down the bus away from the door. I forgot about how much air the doors leak. So I will play around with limited locations for the sensor. I could extend the wire, but I'd rather not.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Sorry more boring pictures, it’s a slow progress and I’m fearful of having to destroy work because I forgot something.
Just one more piece of aluminium to put in the remaining window, the previous window was reduced as well in length. The wardrobe will cover some of the window, so it was just as well to mask the window. I was hoping to cut another buffalo board panel today, but it was better to keep dry.
Still unresolved with the eberspacher, but using a remote temperature sensor has improved it. I am resigned to the fact the cable will need extending and the sensor moved nearer the back.
What’s making this worse, is that our workload seems to increase as we make more. This isn’t good for playing with motor homes.
Just one more piece of aluminium to put in the remaining window, the previous window was reduced as well in length. The wardrobe will cover some of the window, so it was just as well to mask the window. I was hoping to cut another buffalo board panel today, but it was better to keep dry.
Still unresolved with the eberspacher, but using a remote temperature sensor has improved it. I am resigned to the fact the cable will need extending and the sensor moved nearer the back.
What’s making this worse, is that our workload seems to increase as we make more. This isn’t good for playing with motor homes.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Running two machines for the last couple of days made me determined to do a little for myself.
My heating arrangement is somewhat bespoke, with bidirectional ducting. A problem area was below the rear heaters. Left and right ducting is connected together at the back, with the option to heat the garage space. This could be handy for airing the bed that is above it.
The cross ducting and vents are in a vulnerable area, as this is where the frame for our marquee will be stored. My solution was to fit the heater outlets in theTee joints. A nylon adapter was machined to do this.
My heating arrangement is somewhat bespoke, with bidirectional ducting. A problem area was below the rear heaters. Left and right ducting is connected together at the back, with the option to heat the garage space. This could be handy for airing the bed that is above it.
The cross ducting and vents are in a vulnerable area, as this is where the frame for our marquee will be stored. My solution was to fit the heater outlets in theTee joints. A nylon adapter was machined to do this.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
I’m afraid work has put a stop to playing with Betty for a while, but I do have a little fiddle with her now and again.
I can now Grid Feed and offset the works electricity consumption. Don’t get to excited, today I got 1.1kwh. Yesterday 1.6kwh.
Yes, I know it’s not much but every little helps.
I can now Grid Feed and offset the works electricity consumption. Don’t get to excited, today I got 1.1kwh. Yesterday 1.6kwh.
Yes, I know it’s not much but every little helps.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
Sometimes I think I over do things, the vanity basin for our water closet and shower room is bigger than most peoples washing up sink.
![IMG_0880[1].JPG](https://motorhomebuilder.com/attachments/img_0880-1-jpg.5233/ "IMG_0880[1].JPG")
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
You don't want more than a foot, after all it's for you hands