Not a Self-build, but a Tweaker

[wildebus]

Early days but seems to be working. A few days away next week so will know how it stands up to the ins and outs.
I am not sure how well the rubber edges will stand up to any pulling? might tear and I think if it was in a different position (say a fully visible loose mat) I would go a bit inbound and through the carpet material as that would likely be a lot stronger and resistant to tearing.

I've got an original Autotrail interior step mat that is secured with studs and the blooming thing won't pull up - the studs are so strong they won't separate

 

[SquirrellCook]

Vaseline on your studs helps, they do have a habit of becoming friends for life.

 

[wildebus]

Just getting my Motorhome ready for winter .... Electric Blanket ordered

Had one in the Safari Camperbus and it was really really nice to have.
Low power so would run off the batteries no problem and could get into a nice cosy pre-warmed bed. Better than Hot Water bottles as don't don't go cold
Slightly tricky in this motorhome as the bed folds up in half when not in use so had to get a single size to fit on the part that stays flat, but the heat will radiate and dissipate I think

 

[wildebus]

Cold nights are coming in fast. So decided one of these would be good to keep warm in bed on those cold winter nights ...

Mmmm ... by David, on Flickr







Opps, camera zoomed in too far I meant one of these ... (not so much fun but still relatively effective)

....Toasty by David, on Flickr


Specifically chose this size so it would sit flat on the none-folding part of the mattress in the overhead cab bed.

Blanket Sandwich by David, on Flickr
This is also fitted between the base mattress and the topper I previously added. Doing this should help distribute and retain the heat whilst also avoiding feeling the slight ridges of the electric blanket. I fitted the full size one in the fixed bed in Clarence in the same manner and found it very effective.


And the slat base pulled out and bed dropped ready for use.

Bed set up by David, on Flickr

A few months ago I happened to fit a 240V Socket in the Overhead section as a possible useful thing to have, but no thought of an electric blanket at the time, so just a happy happenstance The socket and control is at the foot end of the bed so not ideal for just reaching to turn off or down, but not really meant to leave these on overnight anyway (and I guess there is no major reason why I could not switch ends, except the bed reading lights would be at the wrong end. I could run a little mains extension lead around the front of the bed also. Options are there )

Currently put on and will check in a few hours how much the bed has warmed up. I found it very handy to switch on whilst driving to camp so using spare capacity from the split charge system to pre-warm the bed for later.

UPDATE: Just checked about 4 hours later and the bed under the duvet is definately a little bit warmed. certainly not hot, but warmer then the room.

 

[Nabsim]

No need to move anything Dave, leave it all set and turn inverter on and off with the app

 

[wildebus]

No need to move anything Dave, leave it all set and turn inverter on and off with the app

The fridge is 240V so that takes priority and so Inverter stays on as required.
However .... the socket IS controlled via the programmable Relay on the Cerbo GX (it is on the same output as the Water Heater AC) so I could actually connect/disconnect remotely via the Victron VRM.
I could plug in a SmartPlug as well and turn it on and off via the Alexa App. That could be quite handy

 

[SquirrellCook]

I must be doing something wrong as I’m never cold in Murky’s bed. Often I have to turn the heating down.

 

[wildebus]

I must be doing something wrong as I’m never cold in Murky’s bed. Often I have to turn the heating down.

Then you have the heating on too high


Or ... different people have different requirements. Some people leave the bedroom window open all night and like a cold room. Some like it hot; I prefered not to be Ice Station Zebra.

 

[wildebus]

Early days but seems to be working. A few days away next week so will know how it stands up to the ins and outs.
I am not sure how well the rubber edges will stand up to any pulling? might tear and I think if it was in a different position (say a fully visible loose mat) I would go a bit inbound and through the carpet material as that would likely be a lot stronger and resistant to tearing.

I've got an original Autotrail interior step mat that is secured with studs and the blooming thing won't pull up - the studs are so strong they won't separate

Studs into the rubber was no good. Ripped easily as I feared it would. Going to have to rethink - probably go through the mat material itself (the may stayed in place well before the runner edge ripped).


My Motorhome has rear stays, like caravans. I don't believe the previous owner ever used them and I haven't tried them out and I would imagine they are are likely seized or rusted up?
I think i am going to have to check them out and get them available as today I'm at a campsite in Dunbar and with the high winds it is like being on a blooming dingy bouncing around. The stays I presume will help 'steady the ship'?

 

[Nabsim]

Will sticky back Velcro hold it in place?

 

[mistericeman]

Studs into the rubber was no good. Ripped easily as I feared it would. Going to have to rethink - probably go through the mat material itself (the may stayed in place well before the runner edge ripped).


My Motorhome has rear stays, like caravans. I don't believe the previous owner ever used them and I haven't tried them out and I would imagine they are are likely seized or rusted up?
I think i am going to have to check them out and get them available as today I'm at a campsite in Dunbar and with the high winds it is like being on a blooming dingy bouncing around. The stays I presume will help 'steady the ship'?

Rear legs certainly help on our swift 590....
I usually use blocks to reduce how much I have to wind them down though I use a cordless drill and a 3/8 drive socket.

 

[SquirrellCook]

A few years ago we met up with Cambrian friends in France. They used a power tool on stabilizing legs. Noisy buggers!

 

[wildebus]

Rear legs certainly help on our swift 590....
I usually use blocks to reduce how much I have to wind them down though I use a cordless drill and a 3/8 drive socket.

Good idea using blocks I was thinking need a pad so they don't just go into the ground but built up blocks is a better idea

A few years ago we met up with Cambrian friends in France. They used a power tool on stabilizing legs. Noisy buggers!

yup. get the impact driver on them

 

[mistericeman]

Good idea using blocks I was thinking need a pad so they don't just go into the ground but built up blocks is a better idea


yup. get the impact driver on them

We carry some 3"x2"x24" blocks (they were part of some pallets our aircon units came on)

That gives us quite a wide range of heights used just stacked or sometimes one transverse with the other longitudinal to for a ramped T shape....

AND I've not broken them yet (unlike the Milenco plastic ones we had)
And it wouldn't break my heart to lose one (easily replaced next time I'm on a install ;-))

 

[wildebus]

Thought I would post a little piccy of a practical demonstration of why the Victron Multiplus's are so useful ...

On a pitch currently with EHU available. It is cold so got the (electric) heating on. the (electric) water heater comes on and off as required, and was time to make breakfast this morning, using electrical applicances (as why use your gas if you have paid for EHU).....
Electric Heater set to 500W for background heat; Kettle on the Induction Hob, Electric Toaster on to do 2 slices and Microwave on for poached eggs (plus the 240V Fridge as well of course).
Now usually you would on Hookup not have all these on together to prevent the EHU supply tripping, but that makes timing your breakkie a bit awkward maybe?
With the Multiplus you set the current limit it will pull in to match the supply and then just use the appliances, and as long as you are within the Input limit + the Inverter limit, you can just use everything without worrying.
While making my Breakfast, the batteries provided around 700W of power towards the cooking automatically and meant I didn't have muck around with turning stuff off and on the initially slightly more complex setup makes for a much simpler life

 

[SquirrellCook]

I'm impressed by your solar harvesting

 

[wildebus]

I'm impressed by your solar harvesting

The benefit of being in Scotland in November

 

[wildebus]

Noticed something today that hadn't picked up on before and which is worthwhile noting for anyone who has done a similar setup to mine ....

The starter battery was a bit low this morning (I left the dash-radio on standby and I know it draws quite a bit of current in that setup) so I thought I would just switch the Sargent Control Panel to 'Starter' and turn the built-in charger on (this is how you can chose which battery to charge on the typical Sargent system). This started charging the starter battery as it should.
However, I unplugged the EHU and the starter battery carried on charging! This actually makes total sense as I am feeding the Sargent PDU through the Multiplus, which as soon as a live EHU is removed switches on the Inverter.

So this means a couple of things ....
1) I have to make sure I never leave the Sargent Charger on accidently. (This is actually the first time I have turned it on for over a year so not really that likely).
2) If I ever need to boost the starter battery more than the amount the Ablemail AMT Battery Maintainer/Trickle Charger provides, I have the option of using the Sargent charger even without any hookup.
Now this would be a fairly inefficient way to do it as it involves using the Inverter in the Multiplus to convert DC to AC; and then using the Sargent Charger to convert AC to DC.

Some people use this kind of system (use an inverter connected to Starter battery to drive an AC/DC charger to then charge the Leisure battery) when driving, using the alternator as the source of DC energy, but in that situation the alternator generally has the excess to waste for most setups. if using another battery as the source of DC energy it is a bit different, so not usually recommended but I like having the option (and if I use this option once a year, it will be fine )

 

[SquirrellCook]

This is something I have to change, I charge my starter battery via an inverter and battery charger. Run from the habitation battery This time of year really shows it up.

 

[wildebus]

This is something I have to change, I charge my starter battery via an inverter and battery charger. Run from the habitation battery This time of year really shows it up.

could use a DC-DC converter? are you changing voltage levels? (IRRC both sides are 24V?)