Not a Self-build, but a Tweaker

wildebus

Forum Member
I have to send mine back to DVLA as whil6 they had changed revenue weight they hadn't altered the MAM.
Have you done a Van Conversion?
I don't think I had any weights specified before the change and I beleive that is because it was a Factory Motorhome? The only weight noted now on mine is the Revenue Weight which is fine I think.
 

Markd

Forum Member
No mine is 2004 Bessacarr E745 coachbuilt.
It was originally plated at 3850 but had been down rated to 3500 (which it could never achieve when being used!!)
The upgrade back to 3850 was an easy DIY job but when I went for 3950 they changed to the revenue figure but left the Max Permissible Mass lower down the V5 at 3850.
I took the view that was the crucial figure and I didn't want to have argue the toss with foreign plod so I pressed DVLA to get it right which the did.
When I went for stiffer front springs and extra air bags at the back to got up to 4200 I made sure I altered the V5 in both places and wrote a covering letter - which did the trick 😀
 

PeteS

Forum Member
I had to do the same, they changed the revenue weight but left the MAM at 3500kg, again I didnt want to argue with foreign plod so I just wrote to them quoting the V5C reference asking them to change the MAM as well to avoid confusion whilst abroad.
I kept the V5C in case it went down a black hole.
If I remeber I had a new V5 in a week.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Interesting. Where is the MAM quoted on the V5C? I don't recall any weights listed before at all on mine, so just had the one adding in now.

I wonder what the legal affect of having a 3500 MAM and a 3850 Revenue Weight would be?
Could be potentially useful for someone if you end up not needing a C1 (as MAM is only 3500), but paying PHGV tax due to higher revenue weight?

My last van has a confused V5C .. weight was 4600, but tax category was PLG. Friend had a similar bus from same operator (Notts CC) and his van was a 3500 weight but was a PHGV. He was happy with that :)
 

wildebus

Forum Member
it's in section 4.F.1 Max permissable mass
just checked my new V5C to make sure ... yes, that is blank. On yours, was there a value there before you applied for a weight change? I wonder if it gets used and entered on a weight derate initially?
 

PeteS

Forum Member
just checked my new V5C to make sure ... yes, that is blank. On yours, was there a value there before you applied for a weight change? I wonder if it gets used and entered on a weight derate initially?
Yes it had 3500kg in it, however my MRO or unladen weight is 1900kg as its listed as a peugeot Zuckoff, ie cab only
 

Markd

Forum Member
Mine did have something I think - but don't have a photo of original.
Down rate might had something to do with it but who knows with DVLA 😀😀
But the main point is not having two different numbers to confuse plod - even in this country 😀
 

Markd

Forum Member
I wonder what the legal affect of having a 3500 MAM and a 3850 Revenue Weight would be?
Could be potentially useful for someone if you end up not needing a C1 (as MAM is only 3500), but paying PHGV tax due to higher revenue weight?
Interesting thought there - it would be nice to think you could have benefit of PHGV taxwise but not need C1.
However I don't think you can have your cake and eat it 😀
It would seem that quite a few people do down rate their Van's if they gave C1 problems and given how infrequent checks are and the penalties it could well be a risk worth taking.
I'm pretty sure that's what happened with mine.
It's a big old van and even 3850 wasn't really enough.
I'm not sure I'd have bought it if I'd been as switched on to MAM as I am now given my age.
I'm just hoping that DVLA are back to some semblance of normal in 12 months time when I need to start extending my C1.

DVLA staff don't seem to differentiate between Revenue Weight (which ought to determine tax?) and MPM and as far as this country goes is probably OK.
But can't help but feel that abroad all paperwork and chassis plates need to tell the same story.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Back to Tweaking .....

As per my Thread on Motorhomer.com, following my trip away I found a few things I could improve or enhance the Autotrail Motorhome (https://motorhomer.com/threads/montys-english-invasion.44185/page-3#post-235471).


TV Signal.

As noted in the thread, I fitted an External TV and Sat Connection Box to allow easy connection to site provided services.
I also bought a new Status Aerial Booster. Changed from a VP2 to a VP4 - the VP4 has a built-in signal strength indicator which allows faster initial setup ready to tune in the TV and do fine-tuning.


I also fitted this by the aerial mast so I can both see the light and remember to turn it on (a number of times I totally forgot to turn the old booster on as it is in a different cupboard :( ).
An annoying feature of the VP4 compared to the VP2 is the use of Type-F Satellite Connectors instead of the more usual Co-Ax Plugs, meaning the swapout needed the cable ends redoing :(

Overhead Cab Bed

As mentioned on the Motorhomer thread, got the drop-down fleece for quick privacy.

Now I use the Overhead Bed as the main bed and something that I found missing was the easy ability to plug in a phone charger. There is a 12V socket at the foot of the bed for the small TV and I used that with a long lead but was not ideal, so today I fitted a USB by the top end which should be much more handy



External Lights

At Stratford, I noticed that Fijit, a 2004 Autotrail Apache, has apparently the same Awning/Porch light as me, but whereas his provides illumination, mine is doing a poor impersonation of an anemic glowworm:cry:
Had to wait until I got home to investigate and found it had been somewhat adapted from original , but subesquently played out due to rubbish LEDs (I have the same G4 LEDs in various fittings and they are all failing!)
So starting position is this ....

Apart from the poor LEDs, the electronics at the top were for the original Floro' tube so not needed and no supports for any bulbs.
Decided to use the same base light fitting but gutting the inside and make up some kind of support setup for a new config...

Using some trunking I made a support for some new G4 disc bulbs; fitted a 12V Regulator to avoid overdriving the new LEDs; and a Remote Wireless Relay for a bit of extra functionality ;). This is the device on the left - I also fitted a Wi-Fi Controller (at the bottom) but relocated that (more on that later on :) )



Mounted this back on the Van and works nicely. Looks original, and when I hit the "Aux" button on the Sargent Control Panel, the light comes on as you would expect. I also have a remote control that then lets me turn the light off and on as I want. But the key thing is that the light always comes on when power to the light is first applied, so the remote is optional and by default it works as Autotrail intended (y)

(ignore the wires hanging around - they are no longer there)

Now also at Stratford, I was impressed with @Bouydog 's Awning Strip Light and decided to fit one to Monty. I thought I would use the same kind of system I used on the Overland Camperbus but a more up-to-date strip.
Using a slim Aluminium Channel and diffuser, I fitted the strip right under the Awning and am very pleased with the appearance


And its operation.


It's a multi-colour strip, so any colour you like including white, but all the other RGB combos and at varying brightness of course.



Not a great video, but this shows the installation ...

What I really like about this Striplight setup is it uses the "Magic Home" App, which allows control via a Phone App, but also links into the Amazon Alexa universe. So I can control it via the Amazon Echo in the van ("Alexa, turn the Awning Light on", "Alexa, turn the Awning Red" (or blue, or Cyan, or ... etc.), via Alexa on the phone, either via Voice Command or selecting a routine, or even on any Echo device in the house even though it is on a totally different network. Pretty cool :cool:

I think that is about all the changes made? Roadtrip in the van worked very well and very happy with the Motorhome :D
 
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wildebus

Forum Member
I dont see any photos apart from the youtube video at the end.
Photos should now be visible
There are some photos on motorhomer - maybe cut-paste or link issue?
Not sure why the images were not visible. I did a copy-paste of the images in my Google photos and I am guessing I copied a local link rather than an actual image, which is why I still saw them when looking at the post on my own PC?
Strange as I did nothing different here then with previous posts far as I can tell, so a bit weird :unsure: . They are now actually links to my Flickr account instead :)

But anyway, piccies up :D
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Something else that I have which was rather sad was the door bin :(
I think it is maybe something that ages and wears out over time, but the top clip for the bin had had repair attempts over time with pop-rivets, patches and the like, but was no longer much good. It was just about holding the bin in place but not very neatly.
This shows the aftermath of the various attempts ...

The various holes had pop-rivets in and a round disc which then had the little catch (now seen at the bottom just above the bin inself) attached to it, and it has cracked over time as it was getting pulled.

Autotrail Bin by David, on Flickr
Bit of a sorry state, but the problem is that this is part of the inner door skin, so probably very expensive to replace. The door itself is right on the other side of the skin so don't want to be screwing into it so wasn't sure how to best deal with it :unsure: Any kind of weight (including just the empty bin) pulls the middle of the skin out and makes it flop around.

I mentioned the Fijit-mobile previously and its working awning light compared to my sad sorry version ... Well, another thing that is sorted on Fijit is the door bin :) so I basically copied his fix :cool:

He has added a couple of little brackets with a "U" notch in them that keeps the bin in place. I am sure they have a name but no idea what that is so didn't know what to search for on line or ask in a shop, so looked to see about maybe making my own. Looking around the various bits and pieces kicking around in my workshops, though adapting a couple of P-Clips (for pipe retaining) might do the trick? And worked out just right :)

Autotrail Bin by David, on Flickr

Chopped the lower part of the clips off so now they go over the lip of the bin and keep it against the door skin.
The original clip that you saw earlier I did refit in a new place as a retainer to add some extra support - and yes it is screwed into the skin, but with very short screws that don't go into the door itself.
These P-Clips are also flexible enough while they are still fitted to allow the bin to be removed for whatever reason which is a bit of a bonus.

The P-Clips stop part-way down, which allows the lid to drop down flush with the bin and looks spot on again :D

Autotrail Bin by David, on Flickr

Very simple fix that fixed something that had been bugging me for a long time and hadn't worked out a tidy looking way to sort it out until saw Figit ;) I need to tidy up those holes as well I think that will be revealed each time the lid is open - probably a shaped piece of thin plastic glued in place would look ok?
 
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wildebus

Forum Member
Posted this on Motorhomer, but some more details ....
After adding a couple of sockets to Carrots motorhome, I liked the result so much I decided to replicate the same job on my own :D

So to recap the situation, the Sevel Vans (Citroen Relay, Peugeot Boxer and Fiat Ducato) from 2006 onwards have a pair of 12V outlets on the dash. One is a Cigarette Lighter and the other is a proper 180W Accessory Socket.

Dash 12V Outlets by David, on Flickr

On Brian (Carrots) 2015 X290 model van, after looking at various places around the dash to fit a couple of sockets, the only place really was where the two original 12V ones were, so I replaced them both with the twin QC3 USB Sockets

Dash USB by David, on Flickr
This was a bit tricky as there is no access underneath to the sockets and the cigarette light is very awkward to remove and had to get the dremel out to "deconstruct" it a touch ;)
Once removed, I found on Brians van I had to enlarge the holes a little to allow the new Sockets to push into place (this is pretty typical and matches what I have had to do with other vans) as well as redo the wiring connections.

When I went to repeat the process on my own 2007 X250 model van, I found the Cigarette Lighter even more awkward to remove (it is basically the illuminated ring of plastic with the bulb bit that sticks out which is impossible to manoeuvre to remove so more Dremel action needed!)
Interestingly, the connections were different. In my case, I could leave the original socket in place and just made a couple of flyleads with male spades and push them in the socket. Nice and easy :)

Flyleads by David, on Flickr
However, unlike the 2015 van where I had to enlarge the hole for the socket, on my van the hole was too large! So put a few wraps of unsulating tape around the threaded part of the new socket to fatten it up and then I could push it in with it tight enough to stay in position.

Dash USB by David, on Flickr

I looked at the different options of USB sockets as I wanted to get a Quick Charge version and came across the one above with a voltmeter, with the value represented by segments. Looks a little different and thinking it might be quite good for just glancing across to tell the voltage rather then reading a display (as an aside, seeing the voltage can be handy when driving as it can help tell you what the leisure battery is up to. When the B2B is running at a high current, the load on the alternator causes it to stay low, then as the B2B drops back and the load reduces, you see the voltage going back up above 14V. the actual numbers depend on alternator and B2B size, so impossible to quote numbers for any specific vehicle, but you would get to know what they are for your own).

Brian wanted two pairs of outlets for his particular requirements, but I am just really needing a pair for two mobile phones, so the one socket is fine. This leaves me with the 180W socket that I can still use with a 12V socket if I wanted as will as popping in a 12V-USB plug-in adapter if another one or two were needed at any specific time.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Recap of Post from Motorhomer, plus some more info....

Something I have been thinking off for a while is some kind of security system for the Motorhome, but wanted something up to date and flexible to use and monitor :unsure:

Earlier this week (Wednesday to be exact), I decided on an AGS Home system. Chose this as it is all battery powered apart from the Alarm Siren, and apart from the internal 8 hour battery backup it is powered via a USB cable, so ideal for a Campervan or Motorhome. It also can be controlled via your phone via an internet connection.
This does mean to get all the features you need on-board internet, however you don't have to have active internet for the system to actually work as an functional alarm system.
Also possible is to monitor and control the AGS System via Google Home or Amazon Alexa. I am not a Google user (not even the search engine!) but I have got it setup to work on my Alexa setup.

This is the kit I bought:

Alarm Kit by David, on Flickr

And what it looks like unboxed:

Alarm Unboxed by David, on Flickr
(Not showing the Keypad here)

I got the Main Alarm System here for £45: https://amzn.to/3nimXz6
Decided to add a pair of Motion Sensors which were £8 each: https://amzn.to/3G6CCKB
And a Entry Keypad for £20: https://amzn.to/2XB3aCa. You don't need the Keypad as you can arm and disarm via the keyfob buttons, via the Smart Phone App or using voice control on an Alexa device, but I thought having the Keypad fitted just inside the doorway would make it nice and easy to use if you don't have the phone handy and/or the on-board internet is not live

Keypad by David, on Flickr

I don't intend to carry the keyfob as it is too easy to disarm with a push of a button. With the Alexa control or the Keypad you have to know the disarm code, and your phone presumably has a pin code lock on it.

For obvious reasons I am not going to show pictures of where the siren is installed or the exact positions of the sensors, but suffice to say all the doors and main external lockers are protected and when any are opened the system detects this.
I have named the various sensors to identify the positions where fitted. You can also select for each one if it is active or inactive for the three different alarm modes - Home, Away, or Disarmed.

Sensors by David, on Flickr
Arming for "Home" would typically be an overnight setting when you are inside; "Away" is away from the house (motorhome in this case); and "Disarmed" would be when at home during the day.
I have all the sensors turned off for Disarmed, All the Door sensors enabled for Home & Away, and the motion sensors enabled for Away only (as if for Home they would go off if you got up during the night to go to the loo say).
Enabling "Disarmed" for a sensor may seem a bit strange, but I could see a value in this if say you had a shed or garage on your property that was out of sight and you wanted 24/7 protection for it. You would just need to remember to take the keyfob or phone and cancel the alert as soon as you open the door of the shed/garage. Doesn't apply to my installation though.

These are the modes with some explanation

Alarm Settings by David, on Flickr
The 4th option is "SOS", which can be actived by the keyfob, keypad, phone or Alexa. This could be handy in the Motorhome if you think there is someone lurking around outside ... tell Alexa to set the siren off and turn on external lights :)

I did fancy the optional doorbell, but that works in what I think is a bit of an odd way? instead of making a doorbell noise (the siren can be set to different preset tones, so they could have added a doorbell sound), it makes the siren sound with the same volume and tone an activated alarm would! A bit loud to find out that someone is at the door, I think :(


Overall, this kind of alarm setup for £45 without the optional extras, or £80 including the entry keypad and a pair of motion sensors I think is good value for money. Early days and there are some features that I don't really like (get a beep to tell you a door is opened for example even when the alarm is not set) but overall and even with the bits I don't like, I think it will be a very good and inexpensive intelligent system.
 
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MarkJ

Forum Member
Much more cost effective than the ones I looked at a couple of years ago. They were £200+ I think from memory, and arguably not worth it.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Interesting, what current does it take alarmed and on standby?
On standby there is a fairly bright LED light always lit but LEDs are very power efficient. I don't think it matters to the power consumption between armed and disarmed and looking at the general current draw I really cannot tell if it is using power (so obviously it will be, but negligible).
Once I find my USB Power Monitor I will be able to tell exactly :)
the Control/Siren has a built-in rechargable battery good for 8 hours if disconnected.
 

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