Connecting heater to diesel tank?

NickB

I'm looking for advice on how to fit a diesel stand pipe take off to my ducato.
I've got the fitting kit and I've removed the floor cover between the front seats and can see the top of the fuel tank sender unit (picture to follow ).
The instructions say remove the sender and drill hole in top, assemble stand pipe Etc.
My question is what do I have to disconnect and how do I get the sender unit out to drill it.
 

Deleted member 4404

This any help, it shows sender unit being removed and fitted to new tank

 

NickB

Thanks that helps around 50 secs it shows the hoses being disconnected. . ... I can't see how mine are attached... I've watched an American video which shows several different types of clips.
Also I'm trying to find out if I can raise the unit up/out and into the van through the hole between the front seats. I need to do this to be able to drill (and catch the plastic swarf) to fit the stand pipe.
 

Steven

I removed the cover to expose the top of the tank,then used a new hole saw and cut a hole in the top of the tank. Then I used an Eberspacher stand pipe,which I shortened so it only reaches about 3/4 down the tank.Then fit the stand pipe and connect up the fuel line. It’s much easier and keeps the heater supply separate from the engine supply. I’ll take a pic later

Stephen.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
I know nothing about ducatos, but here are a couple of tips when you do this process on a VW that might be transferable and help?


Temporarily replace the mounting bolts with long threaded rod. This allows you to lower the tank in a controlled way to gain access to the top and then raise again.
Use a Jack and wide support (sheet of thick ply) to support the tank and raise/lower the tank.
 

NickB

I removed the cover to expose the top of the tank,then used a new hole saw and cut a hole in the top of the tank. Then I used an Eberspacher stand pipe,which I shortened so it only reaches about 3/4 down the tank.Then fit the stand pipe and connect up the fuel line. It’s much easier and keeps the heater supply separate from the engine supply. I’ll take a pic later

Stephen.
Thanks Stephen, sounds like a good idea, I can't see the top of my tank, the fixing kit (stand pipe) came with the Wallas xc duo cut for the ducato sender with assembly instructions but not how to get the top cover off to drii and fix it.
Which van did you fix yours to?
Nick
 

NickB

I know nothing about ducatos, but here are a couple of tips when you do this process on a VW that might be transferable and help?


Temporarily replace the mounting bolts with long threaded rod. This allows you to lower the tank in a controlled way to gain access to the top and then raise again.
Use a Jack and wide support (sheet of thick ply) to support the tank and raise/lower the tank.
Thanks Wildbus, I just replied to Stephens post.
This is way I want to avoid if possible. I'm still fit enough to crawl under and do it, and I've certainly got all the kit to do it but I'm not sure I've got the nerve. For the moment before taking this route I'm going tö try the sender removal route. (At the moment ;-))
 

NickB

BTW... Stephen/Wildbus how did you get your hands inside your tanks to fix the back nut without removing the sender?
 

wildebus

Forum Member
BTW... Stephen/Wildbus how did you get your hands inside your tanks to fix the back nut without removing the sender?
I have not actually fitted a standpipe so cannot answer that myself (I've been fortunate that I have be able to tap into a fuel feed outside the tank on heaters I've fitted as those vehicles have had engine pre-heaters that have the identical fuel-feed requirement).
The "tips" I posted I have I know have been used successfully by others and kept in mind in readiness for the occasion I need to do this. Another tip which is likely goes without saying is do this process with as little fuel as possible left in the tank!
If you can get to the tank top to fit the pipe then that would save a lot of hassles!

I believe some kits also use self-threading plastic screws so they don't need internal access, just the hole drilled.
 

GEOFF

On one of my older conversions (2001 2.8 ducato) the tank sender was visible from the cab floor. I simply removed the tank sender pressing (about 6 screws) and drilled a new hole in the pressing for the stand pipe. Geoff.
 

NickB

That's it Geoff, that's exactly where I'm at... and what I've got the fittings for... everyone says it's easy... like you say 'simply remove the sender'... that's where I'm stuck ..I need to know how to release the pipes I can see.... do I raise only enough to fit in a rag to carch the plastic swarf..
I'm sure I can do it but I'm looking for practical advice on this simple stage.... perhaps I'm being over careful?
Nick
 

mistericeman

Forum Member
That's it Geoff, that's exactly where I'm at... and what I've got the fittings for... everyone says it's easy... like you say 'simply remove the sender'... that's where I'm stuck ..I need to know how to release the pipes I can see.... do I raise only enough to fit in a rag to carch the plastic swarf..
I'm sure I can do it but I'm looking for practical advice on this simple stage.... perhaps I'm being over careful?
Nick

With a bit of fiddle and a cloth to catch any swarf (as well as plenty of sticky grease on the drill bit)

It may be possible to do it without dismantling everything....
On our 2004 Ducato it looks like there is an access panel to the top of the tank/pump etc....
You won't need much room to get your hand in...
 

activecampers

Forum Member
On my NV, I went *though* the sender unit, rather than through the tank. Was OK, if daunting.
When we do next van I will use a separate tank for simplicity! (Also to run on kerrosine when possible, and diesel only if we run out)
 

NickB

I connected to (through) the top of the Ducato sender unit as per the Eberspacher and similar youtube videos. Have lots and lots of rags it's very messy!... Happy now I've got the Wallas xc Duo cooker/heater fully working.
 

Pugwash69

Forum Member
Just out of interest, apart from a little saving of space, why take the diesel tank supply? You can run a diesel heater off kerosene or red diesel, both of which have much less tax on them.
 

mistericeman

Forum Member
Just out of interest, apart from a little saving of space, why take the diesel tank supply? You can run a diesel heater off kerosene or red diesel, both of which have much less tax on them.
Personally speaking....
Pfaff of filling a separate tank
And the smell.... Every installation I've come accross with a separate tank always seems to end up smelling of diesel/kero (if they're fitted inside obvs)
Our d2 uses so little I'm happy to fill the heater up at the same time I fill the main tank...
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Personally speaking....
Pfaff of filling a separate tank
And the smell.... Every installation I've come accross with a separate tank always seems to end up smelling of diesel/kero (if they're fitted inside obvs)
Our d2 uses so little I'm happy to fill the heater up at the same time I fill the main tank...
As misterice says, the heaters do actually use very little fuel (I actually have my fuel pump connected to my Victron Venus GX and count the pulses so know precisely how much it uses).
Given this, I reckon the choice of which option to go for - tapping into the main diesel tank or fitting a separate tank for the heater - likely depends on which is the easiest, not which will cost the least in consumed fuel.


However ... Kerosene burns cleaner than Diesel and if you are planning on fitting a Chinese heater (but the Eberspachers also benefit), that cleaner fuel will likely result in a better running heater over time, so if both options are even .... ;)

I fitted an external tank as I had a good [exterior] location for it (actually them - got a pair); I have direct access to a Kerosene supply; and it saved messing around with the existing fuel tank.
It has worked out very well and it is no real hassle to to fill the tanks with a 12V pump (and because they use so little fuel, it is a pretty infrequent activity)
 

GEOFF

Where did you fit it WB? I have one of the Chinese suitcase all in one and was thinking of fitting it to the tow ball with a clamp system, but that would mean removal every time that I open the rear door. I am now thinking about making a device to fit it onto a rear door hinge. I would of course still need to have a quick release system for it and the the warm air outlet as I would like to keep the unit portable. Geoff.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Where did you fit it WB? I have one of the Chinese suitcase all in one and was thinking of fitting it to the tow ball with a clamp system, but that would mean removal every time that I open the rear door. I am now thinking about making a device to fit it onto a rear door hinge. I would of course still need to have a quick release system for it and the the warm air outlet as I would like to keep the unit portable. Geoff.
My Heater is fitted under the drivers seat.
The fuel tanks are fitted on the repurposed Spare Wheel Carrier (I moved the Spare to a Rear Door mounted Carrier I had made).

I would think a carrier attached to the door by whatever method suitable would work quite nicely. How would you have the heater air inlet and outlets easily detachable? That would be the main complication I think?
Given the price of these units, is there much benefit in having a relocatable/portable heater? The tooling to sort out may not be much cheaper than another heater (moving the wheel wasn't a decision influenced by my fuel tank location but the cost of the new door carrier and powder coating was about the same as the cost of the heater kit)
 

Pugwash69

Forum Member
I mounted my tank on the inside of a rear door, with enough fuel pipe to allow it to open with the door. It means that when I fill it, any spillage goes on the floor outside.
 

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