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here's some pics of how I did my bed,it's the long arm of an 'L' shaped seat,and the ply on top is fixed to the metal frame with a couple of screws so its easy to remove .very simple to weld up and works easily.don't know if the pics show enough

not sure i'm picturing it properly,but telescopic could work ok

funny that,i have a similar set up but my bed just slldes out to double the width in one movement,i'll see if I can find some photos

I just fitted a home built one for a guy,pretty simple construction,all down to an offset hinge.trouble is,i never liked rand r beds,they take up too much room,you still have to make the bed,and they always stop you getting into cupboards.i think they're abad design.i've fitted out t4 and t5...

found a rubbish photo of it

I made and fitted ramps to a sankey so my mate could put his fiat 500 on top and pull it behind his fire engine,bit high but it worked

bit smart mate,are they jerry can racks on the front ?

caravans are built inside out. ie the furniture is often stapled from the other side of the wall/ceiling frame ,then the ally skin put on last.,that's why you can't see the fixings.also the fittings are very light,which means they're a bit fragile. if I was doing this I 'd take the ally off...

I decided to take out my zig. a zig is just a limited fuse board,combined with a limited battery charger and a couple of switches,and a simple battery charge indicator. I now have a 6 way fuseboard,a voltmeter,a smartcom relay and a smartcharger. the smartcharger is permanently on,so any time...

as I said to daisy,i cut an oval hole with a jigsaw that took both pipes with plenty of gap,and masticced the heater to the floor

another thing that i find about these guidlines,is that they ARE guidlines as far as i'm concerned.if,like our Gypsy mates ,i don't want a sink,i expect to have that right,as for a 6 foot bed,if it's across the van and only measures 70 inches,then that's fine,or if i'm a dwarf and only want a 4...

i'm not sure if this hasn't been screwed up by well meaning but basically anal folk. i have had a lot of campers,all self built,i would send a few photos of the interior,with one pic showing one door open at the back and the reg on the closed door,so its obviously the same van.i would send a...

looking good Poppy,don't worry about forgetting a few things,most stuff can be retro fitted.every job done is one off the list,until one day you don't have a list--you have a camper !

just checked mine 2.5 so that's a no no !going back to your question .i'm pretty handy and i don't know if i'd like to tackle cutting one down, but saying that ,it is only ally extrusions and a bit of cloth !

quite simple ! you buy a long one and swap it for my short one.sorted !

i'm not familiar with these,but if the gas is lit,it needs a flue if used in an enclosed space like a tent or van,or CO1 can build up. normally when you say 'vent kit' that refers to the exterior vents put top and bottom to ensure airflow round the unit for cooling.this cooler looks like it...

perfect.either cut a couple of holes with a holesaw or jigsaw or drill a lot of 10mm holes,you can picture the amount needed from the vent size,then screw a bit of mosquito net or mesh over it to stop tarantulas and toads getting in

no reason why not.usually a bad idea if your pipe stops going up,or gets so long it could cool down and stop convecting.i use propex exhaust pipe which fits ok,but any metal pipe will do or even thin aluminium rolled into a tube.i then use aluminium tape to seal the joins

i once fitted out a shop with a loop nylon wall covering,i t was amazing how heavy some of the display pieces were hung on the wall with velcro

and when the foam backed carpet finally starts to come away under its own weight,it leaves behind a dessicated disintegrating layer that comes down like snow when you hit a bump lovely in your tea ! i generally prefer painted walls so i can change colour or just freshen it up when it needs...