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The light output of an LED is measured in Lumens. They also have a colour temperature. The higher the temp, the more like daylight

These numbers are are only the chip size, not the luminance. The strips I'm using have 2835 chips on them. For interest the RS part number is 922-0963

We use a calorifier connected to the engine coolant. So when we stop we have a tank of hot water. if untouched it's still hot after 24 hours. Of grid we can heat the water with an eberspacher. I like Wildbus's idea of using surplus solar to heat the water, but you'd need a big inverter or low...

I have these in Murky, wonderful with the diffuser.

My fridge has the radiator on the back. I can’t remember the make until I look at it. I have two fans to pull out the hot air.

It’s a fine looking vehicle, you know that a ramp is not needed for an MOT if they have a pit.

A very simple job if you are still running fluorescent tubes. Clean the housing of all the electrics and replace with sticky back LED strips. These lamps only had one tube and a festoon bulb so the savings on power were not wonderful, about 2 watts. I've done it before on older twin tube ones...

It's a curved surface, so being flexible it makes it easier to fit. I also use it around the engine bulkhead to reduce noise.

https://www.sounddeadeninguk.co.uk/products/16mm-sound-insulation-thermo-liner-1mx5m-roll-for-quieter-warmer This is what I have been using for those awkward bits.

Well the flexible epoxy seems to have done the job, so now I’m insulating that once hidden area. Sorry slow progress, Murky is having time spent on it as well as building an extension to our workshop.

I’d have insulted the floor from underneath then ply over the steel. Would have saved some space.

I managed once to buy a 750 watt element for a calorifier, I hope to do it again or even get a 500 watt one.

Seems a strange way to do it with the heat exchanger, unless they were worried that the habitation side would leak and the engine would loose water.

On the Betty build I think the shortest I can make the cables from the batteries to the Multiplus will be about 4 metres. I think I’ll need to install some welding cables.

You normally have an expansion tank on the hot side as there should be a none return valve to stop the hot water heating the cold. The other expansion tank is placed after the water pump. When it’s pressure is set correctly it will reduce the pump on time and smooth the flow of water. Do you...

That's good, but I was talking about the heating circuit.

When I get to that stage on the Betty Build I'll try to make it as clear as possible as to what I'm doing. Just driving the calorifier with 5 Kw might be a bit much and you need expansion capacity too. They are easy to start, it's only a one wire momentary connection.

I plugged in 15 - 80 deg C and that came back with just over 2 hours with a 1kw element. Dave was using a BMV I think to switch a relay so that only surplus power was used to heat water. As a stand alone way to heat water i don't think batteries are the way to go. In the Betty build I will using...

https://www.thermcouk.com/immersion-heater-info/ I'm going to give these people a call when I'm at that stage Dave.

What size calorifier do you have?