Yes, this will require very long bolts, but if they are a higher grade (as the high tensile are suppose to be) i thought it would be ok. The other alternatives are use a U shape on its side and bolt the seat and the U shape to the floor or use a smaller box section and create a structure to bolt the seat to. The concern with all of the options (assuming all are safe) is weight. I would like to reduce this as much as possible, that is why i thought of wood, as it is just a 'spacer' and is not part of the strength structure .My concern is not the box section but with using very long bolts of what? 6 inches long? Just seems very long! may well be perfectly fine but just my thinking.
I take it these seats will have seat belts fitted for use as travelling seats? If so any chance of speaking to local MOT place to get their take on it, if not having seat belts you can do whatever you wantYes, this will require very long bolts, but if they are a higher grade (as the high tensile are suppose to be) i thought it would be ok. The other alternatives are use a U shape on its side and bolt the seat and the U shape to the floor or use a smaller box section and create a structure to bolt the seat to. The concern with all of the options (assuming all are safe) is weight. I would like to reduce this as much as possible, that is why i thought of wood, as it is just a 'spacer' and is not part of the strength structure .
Yes, they have seatbelts (they are from a transit minibus) and they are intended for travel as well. My intention was anyway to take it to an MOT center after installation so that i will have some kind of a certificate for insurance purposes, so a visit before will be made.I take it these seats will have seat belts fitted for use as travelling seats? If so any chance of speaking to local MOT place to get their take on it, if not having seat belts you can do whatever you want
That is a good idea! Not sure why I have not thought about it. I guess if I use Butil tape it will minimise galvanic effect, or at least i hope so.Aluminium box section is lighter.
You'll only have a galvanic effect if the joint becomes damp. Just like using stainless steel against mild steel.That is a good idea! Not sure why I have not thought about it. I guess if I use Butil tape it will minimise galvanic effect, or at least i hope so.
Thank you!
Yes, decided to go with the covers as it looks a bit better and hope it will collect less dirt. I also fitted the caps at the ends. It is still open from the bottom though. I have plenty of caps... Both 40x40 and 40x20 - They come in bags of 100...Looks good nice covers not got those on mine.
Yes, and I did not fit the bar all the way to the end. The last meter or so is really dropping. I am not sure about previous model or the MB Sprinter.Looking nice.
That shot with the length of bar on the roof is interesting. Shows how the roof line starts to drop at the rear, which I never knew, and the roof ribs reveal the same.
I wonder if that is new to the latest VW Crafter model? (My VW LWB LT (2 generations older) was totally flat lengthways and I think the Transporters were as well?)
I do not think Hereford is on my list of places to visit... But if you come London way you are welcome to themEverything come in hundred bags ! . bring some to Hereford ill have some 22 for a few quid ? ?.
Stops the leafs and bits from trees.
Can’t see why the fill pipe can’t be whatever length you need/want it to be. So long as it’s secured to tank one end and external fill the other I would say all good.Water tank question: we chose a Wydale over wheel arch tank of 100L. I now got the tank and not sure where to place the fill up cap. We would like it to be external to minimise possibility of spill in the van. The issue is that the tank is quite high, so i am very limited in where i can place it. The cap of course will be a bit higher than the tank, but not by much. The question is - can the fill up point be very close to the tank? I.e. the length of the pipe about 30cm?
Many thanks
There is only one drawback... It is working on LPG, I do not intend to fit LPG to the van.There is one that has all the combustion side underneath the floor with hot tank and hot air above. I don’t think that needs any vents in the side. Will see if I can find it
Edit: here it is https://www.whalepumps.com/rv/product.aspx?Category_ID=10032&Product_ID=200&FriendlyID=Expanse
You could fit an Eberspacher hydronic (or other make) in the engine bay or under the vehicle somewhere out the way and pipe that to an internal hot water tank. I did see that Scots guy on YouTube had hold of a Chinese version of one last year but don’t know if they are mainstream yet. That does away with gas and vents if it’s vents and more internal space you are after.There is only one drawback... It is working on LPG, I do not intend to fit LPG to the van.
I have a whale heater in the caravan, it is very good, but works only on electricity and LPG. There is not much choice if you go the Diesel way (for hot water).
Thanks for the thought