Vent Windows

Gogi

Forum Member
Hi All

Hope your all good!

I've just joined and I am at the beginning of my van build, although it's been about 4 years in the head!!

I'm excited to join the community and hopefully document my progress with you.

My first question is regarding vent windows and wondered if anyone has used Leisure Vehicle Windows? http://leisurevehiclewindows.co.uk/bonded-vent-windows/

Or if you know of any other glass company doing similar option I'd be interested to know?

I've added a few pics with templates of the window sizes I might add...anyone have a preference? I might even do 2 of the squarish windows side by side which I think might look quite cool? Thanks

Best
Gogi
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Millie Master

Forum Member
Personally I wouldn't go for bonded glass or perspex units, purely because when considering a van conversion, if you will ever be sleeping in it when it is cold, you will need to have insulation. Believe me, it is amazing how many people convert their vans looking for the cool look and forgetting about practical usability

Going by the sizes you are showing, most especially the larger sizes, I would go for some Seitz or Polyvision double glazed items that have the added advantage that you can open them for ventilation as well.... take a look at what is available at amongst other places, Magnum Motorhomes https://magnummotorhomes.co.uk/product-category/windows/ or you might find some good condition and far cheaper bunk windows at a caravan breakers.

Phil
 

Gogi

Forum Member
Yeah I agree Phil, I am trying to think about insulation and why I'd prefer a smaller vent window rather than the standard ones you see on a Transporter but I am trying to make it look cool to. The ones I've been looking at do slide open and have fly nets and with a fan towards the front of the van will give me some good ventilation, hopefully!

Great, I'll check them out and good tip about the breakers, I'll look in to that too!

Cheers

G

Phil
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SquirrellCook

Forum Member
I know it’s been done many times, but I do wonder about the longevity of aftermarket bonded windows. I’ve seen two now at the point of catastrophic failure.
 

Silver sprinter

Forum Member
I know it’s been done many times, but I do wonder about the longevity of aftermarket bonded windows. I’ve seen two now at the point of catastrophic failure.
If the correct procedure is followed regarding primers activators and sealant I don't see there being a problem. It's when using non comparable. That problems can crop up
 

Squiffy

Forum Member
I know it’s been done many times, but I do wonder about the longevity of aftermarket bonded windows. I’ve seen two now at the point of catastrophic failure.
I've self fitted bonded windows on the rear doors of my XLWB 250x now for six years Squirrel and my sons bonded windows on his sliding door, opposite side and both rear doors for 18 months with no problems, as Silver sprinter says if done properly its no different to factory fit bonded windows and there is literally millions of those on the roads. Phil

P.s. Infact he reversed into a steel bar and broke the o/s rear window last year and what a hell of a job we had removing the shards of glass left on the bonding, absolute nightmare.
 
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Millie Master

Forum Member
In another thread that I have read somewhere either on this forum or the sister sites, someone posted about very significant rust, some so bad that the metal was perforated and this was in vans with galvanised bodies which had been professionally converted to buses or similar by the fitting of bonded glass.

Very clearly the converters had bodged the job and hadn't treated the cut edges with chemicals and paint prior to the fitting of the glass.

And here is where I hold my hand up as being a prize idiot when I fitted one of my roof lights. I thought I had fully treated the cut edges by smoothing them down, giving them 2 coats of cur rust and 2 coats of hammerite, I then fitted the rooflight using dirty greats gobs of Stixall. But 5 years on I started to have some horrid brown water dripping down from around the roof light, so I took it all off and my gaud, what a bloody mess I found including some body perforation, all due to what had possibly been a pin prick sized hole that water had seeped through!

Phil
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Yes protecting the cut steel is very important, and you don't always know how far the fractures go in the paint.

With my windows man he is happy to share his experience and consider my silly ideas. One thing he has introduced me to is the window primer. If you get the right stuff it bonds to many substances. Also contains a rust inhibitor. Even watching how he applies the mastic is a sight to behold. The shear amount used was a surprise too. It's better to trim the excess than not use enough.
Though expensive I have used window primer to black out some of my glass on the Betty build. Because I have done this I am able to bond my window demister to the glass.
 

weefish

Forum Member
There is usually a black border round the edge of a bonded window. I stuck velcro to this and used the silver bubble foil type stuff on top. A complete blackout and hardly any condensation, especially with heavy curtains.
 

Tucker

Forum Member
Hi just got a Mercedes sprinter MWB converted! I have one large window on sliding door and one large slidng window behind drivers seat! Do you need to have 2 windows on one side or will this do? Dvla rules!
 

Squiffy

Forum Member
Hi just got a Mercedes sprinter MWB converted! I have one large window on sliding door and one large slidng window behind drivers seat! Do you need to have 2 windows on one side or will this do? Dvla rules!
I believe its to be 2 windows at least on one side and one at least on the other. Phil.
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Cutting big holes in your van is no guarantee that your body shape will be accepted as "motor home" The taxation class will be the same regardless.
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
Does passenger door window not count as one of the windows, do they both have to be on the habitation part?
 

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