scottypaul
10 gauge wall thickness on ally hollow section would be plenty strong if i was using steel i would only want 16swg on wall for similar.
piman
Hello K9D,
my query was put simply because I'd assumed that you had the method of construction finalised before asking your question. It seems I was mistaken. If you read my original post I stated that the strength was down to section; of course for the same section steel is normally stronger than the usual alloys of aluminium, as Paul's last post clarifies.
Alec
my query was put simply because I'd assumed that you had the method of construction finalised before asking your question. It seems I was mistaken. If you read my original post I stated that the strength was down to section; of course for the same section steel is normally stronger than the usual alloys of aluminium, as Paul's last post clarifies.
Alec
K9d
Hi Alec,
Another reason for asking the question is that others may find this thread useful if they wish to undertake a similar project. I find this forum to be a good source of information so if I can give something back it seems only fair.
Another reason for asking the question is that others may find this thread useful if they wish to undertake a similar project. I find this forum to be a good source of information so if I can give something back it seems only fair.
Polar Bear
Forum Member
Did you try pushing the seat as far back as possible before turning?
GRWXJR
Yes, but there's not quite enough room. Also behind the drivers seat is the 'sofa' that faces sideways to the side sliding door, and that extends into a bed.
So, even if the seat could slide back far enough (it can't) to clear the steering wheel it'd be up tight against that.
Its not an issue though, as with the drivers at 90 degrees it lines up with the sofa, while the passenger seat can fully 360 so can be rotated to face fully backwards. This creates a sort of L shaped seating position which seats 4 comfortably and 5 at a squeeze (more than 2 only happens when there's 'visitors' as
its only a 2-berth layout.
The steering wheel isn't too bad - I just lean my arm on it and its comfy enough when turned thru 90 deg. Overall the layout works very nicely for us.
I just took delivery of a new clear dome skylight as I'd like more natural light in the living space, esp. over the galley. So next scary thing for me is to take the plunge and chop a big hole in me roof :danger::help::scared::scared::scared:
Lee
Bit of a sweaty palm moment, my suggestion is measure twice, then measure again then go for it. It will make a great difference to the van I'm sure.
Good Luck
n brown
Forum Member
what size skylight ?.if it's a 40x40 or 50x50mm,then cut a bit of card or ply that exact size first. you can then position this on the roof nice and square,before drawing round it and cutting
GRWXJR
Its an MPK 280 x 280 Rooflight c/w flynet and clear dome Nigel.
MPK 280 x 280 Rooflight c/w flynet with Clear Dome | Camping Equipment | Camping Online UK
I would like to position it over the kitchen area which is a bit gloomy without lighting on as its away from the windows - hence selecting a small size with clear dome so it can fit in the roof space above the galley and in between the outer wall and the inside wall to the cloakroom.
I also wanted to make sure it was compact enough to easily fit between the steel roof joists that loop side-to-side under the glassfibre Hi-Top. I know where one runs across above inside the existing insulation and roof cladding so plan to move a couple of inches away from that and then should be well clear of any other structural bits.
I have never fitted any windows or rooflights myself before, so had the idea to use the inner / lower section as the template to cut the hole to (there's no 'destructions' or fitting screws with it btw, but it looks not unlike fitting a Cat Flap!) then use Sikkaflex around the inside upper frame base of the Outer (there's a sort of detent all the way around that looks like its there to be filled with sticky fixing gloop!).
Then, I thought to fit and screw the inner into place to clamp it all together with the (unsupplied) screws, and then add more Sikkaflex around the outside edge of the Upper external section for added water ingress protection paranoia?
If anything I suggested there sounds over-simplistic and/or just plain dumb, please feel free to enlighten me!
K9d
Don't do what I did many years ago on a Vauxhall Chevette when fitting a sun roof, I made a paper template, I had to use two pieces of paper because of the size, cut a hole in the roof, dropped the sun roof in and straight through. I had drawn around the outside of the sun roof and no the inner part that I should have done 
.
At least it was only a Vauxhall
. At least it was only a Vauxhall
n brown
Forum Member
the sizes of windows and hatches is the aperture size ie 280x280 is the size of the hole ,and Wint is right you should use a non-setting mastic,or mastic tape,or both .
mark the hole,then mask off round it with cardboard. whether you use a jigsaw or disc cutter,hot swarf will embed itself in the surrounding paintwork ,then rust
i' d use a disc cutter with a 1mm thick blade
Magnum Motorhomes - Viewing Product:
mark the hole,then mask off round it with cardboard. whether you use a jigsaw or disc cutter,hot swarf will embed itself in the surrounding paintwork ,then rust
i' d use a disc cutter with a 1mm thick blade
Magnum Motorhomes - Viewing Product:
GRWXJR
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GRWXJR
I just ordered some of the 32mm mastic strip, and a tube of non- setting mastic gloop for good measure.
Ive also found a leak which I suspect is coming through the awning mounting holes, so this stuff might well prove handy for tackling that at the same time
I shall have to get stuck in as soon as opportunity presents!
G.
Ive also found a leak which I suspect is coming through the awning mounting holes, so this stuff might well prove handy for tackling that at the same time
I shall have to get stuck in as soon as opportunity presents!
G.
K9d
I have now converted the wooden mock ups into steel
View attachment 27619
Next thing is to drill the holes for the seat rails and then fit the seats, I will be painting the steel and fitting end caps to make it look tidier.
View attachment 27619
Next thing is to drill the holes for the seat rails and then fit the seats, I will be painting the steel and fitting end caps to make it look tidier.
K9d
Bases are all fitted and the grey leather seats are now cream to match our interior.
View attachment 28828
View attachment 28828
K9d
Cheers.
I'm pleased with them its not a perfect job on the colour change but as an ex printer I'm a fussy bugger.
I'm pleased with them its not a perfect job on the colour change but as an ex printer I'm a fussy bugger.
trevskoda
Forum Member
no need if the belts are fitted to van and not seat base.
K9d
trevskoda
Forum Member
the other thing you can do is weld a set of runners on the floor box going left to right, then weld the normal ones across them on top at 90 deg so if seat is to close to side or wheel you can slide it just about any way you wish.
Also will line up with pedals better.
trevskoda
Forum Member
body boys use a nibler.