piman
Hello K9D,
the choice of material is irrelevant, it is the section that would determine the choice, specifically the wall thickness as I assume the outer dimensions are determined by what actually fits. Also if you are bolting through box section, ideally, there should be a tube fitted to stop the box being crushed as you tighten the fastener.
Alec
the choice of material is irrelevant, it is the section that would determine the choice, specifically the wall thickness as I assume the outer dimensions are determined by what actually fits. Also if you are bolting through box section, ideally, there should be a tube fitted to stop the box being crushed as you tighten the fastener.
Alec
tranivanman
hi
I fitted two leather seats from a ford scorpio to my transit van which ment welding them to the base boxs that bolt to the floor, didnt have mine crash tested and never had a problem with the mot, the seat belts points are fixed to the standard position as new so the change I made did not in anyway interfere with the belt anchorage points, I pressume yours will be the same so you shouldnt have a problem, I used steel to fix mine to the seat box, only problem I made in my rush ,was not thinking about access to the batteries under the seat!!
good luck im sure you will find them much more comfortable ,mine are both electric and heated but i havent used the heated part as i dont know how to wire them , I'm affraid of them constantly heating up!!!
tranivanman
I fitted two leather seats from a ford scorpio to my transit van which ment welding them to the base boxs that bolt to the floor, didnt have mine crash tested and never had a problem with the mot, the seat belts points are fixed to the standard position as new so the change I made did not in anyway interfere with the belt anchorage points, I pressume yours will be the same so you shouldnt have a problem, I used steel to fix mine to the seat box, only problem I made in my rush ,was not thinking about access to the batteries under the seat!!
good luck im sure you will find them much more comfortable ,mine are both electric and heated but i havent used the heated part as i dont know how to wire them , I'm affraid of them constantly heating up!!!
tranivanman
GRWXJR
Yep. Unistrut and some Spring Channel Nuts. Brilliant stuff they use for building frames, cable mounts, industrial ducting and exhaust hangars, allsorts.
Strong as feck and like grown-up Meccano. You can make anything out of the stuff, my old mum has got a unistrut chassis trailer for towing behind the lawn tractor mower!
If you do want some, head to your nearest electrical wholesaler like a CEF or a Screwfix maybe. Its popular for cable traywork frame and electrical Dis Panel stands etc And is available in different sizes.
martinmartin
steel or alumnium
k9d.Dont take the comment i made about alumnium prosthetics out of text.You said in the fourth line of your thread about amputating your legs,thats what i was joking about.
k9d.Dont take the comment i made about alumnium prosthetics out of text.You said in the fourth line of your thread about amputating your legs,thats what i was joking about.
piman
Hello GRWXJR,
" Spring Channel Nuts."
Commonly called Zebedees (Sp?) as in the Magic Roundabout.
Alec
" Spring Channel Nuts."
Commonly called Zebedees (Sp?) as in the Magic Roundabout.
Alec
Polar Bear
Forum Member
If you comply with m4s06000201 then you should have no problem!
I would use metal myself as any slight movment may elongate the holes in ally. Uni-strut looks okay powder coated. You could get it done at a reasonable price if you leave it with the powder coaters until they are running a colour you can live with!
I would use metal myself as any slight movment may elongate the holes in ally. Uni-strut looks okay powder coated. You could get it done at a reasonable price if you leave it with the powder coaters until they are running a colour you can live with!
Polar Bear
Forum Member
mandrake
apart from daft answers ,some i am shure are tongue in cheek ,however you do the change must comply with mot standards and probably vehicle type and specs . gone have the days where you just bolt in a couple of nicer looking seats .all the work especially if the seat belts are integral with the seat frame must be to standard approved to mot specs . also if you should modify the seating from factory standards then you should inform your insurance ,basically because if the vehicle is modified in any way from standard then in case of an accident or claim the insurance company can refuse to pay out or adjust payment according to how they feel is appropriate . meaning they can refuse a claim if they feel that way . fitting seats that are of a different spec to the ones approved by the manufacturer that has been approved during crash tests and the vehicle approval and type specs can totally void any claim that should arise from an accident . so maybe a nice set of Saab turbo seats in a tyranny wont meet the vehicle type and approval criteria
K9d
Fair enough, the trouble with the written word is sometimes the meaning gets misinterpreted, plus it was late and I'd been on the whisky
K9d
The reason for box section is because I need clearance for the pivot mechanism locking point, the plan is to drill two holes at each bolt point one large enough to allow the head of the allen bolt to pass through and the other hole enough for the thread only, so there will be no trouble with crushing the tube. it will be bolted from above to the swivel base and below to the seat rails.
The tube I'm looking at has 2.5mm wall thickness Mild steel box section 5 sizes 20mm 25mm 30mm 40mm 50mm choose length | eBay
K9d
When you have a crash and the Aluminium brackets shear off, I expect you will be needing cotton wool. The waiting to die part might be quite short also.
Yours sincerely,
Coffin dodger.
I'm not planning on having a crash
Also if there's a weak point its the single bolt that is in the centre of the turntable.
Fiat were also very safety minded and made the engine so weak and feeble that I can't go fast enough to do any damage.
K9d
I think what you did there is applied common sense and logic, then in the interest of self preservation made them strong enough.
DVLA guidelines basically state, things have to be made to a standard whereby they're not going to fall apart.
There shouldn't be an issue with the seat belts as I don't need to touch them.
To wire up the electrics is simple, just two wires and it all works, tested it with my booster pack
I've heard that heated seats make you feel like you've wet yourself.
K9d
In what way, were they trying to help ?
K9d
Some interesting points, thank you.
The seat belts are attached to the body of the van and the buckle to the existing seats base, so will be untouched.
mandrake
well at least you wont have problems with the belts . seeing as your using the original seat bases . as for the method of mounting the replacement seat frame to the vans bases /mounting then maybe an enquirer y at a mot station or even a vosa workshops that deal with vehicle checks like vic checks would cover you back 100% safety and insurance wise . i know its more than likely not needed but in today's climate regarding mods to cars/van and insurance regs you cannot be too safe . after all if you change the engine spec to a larger capacity somebody wants to know the needle to the thread of who did it ,where did the engine come from milarky
mandrake
if the seats are out of a car with any age to it ,theirs probably no point in wiring the heated seats up as that's the first thing to go wrong every car i have owned with heated seats they haven't worked ,especially the driver side anyway ...anyway they can play havoc with yer piles
Siimplyloco
Do we need yet another heated discussion today?
John
John
K9d
I will do a bit of research and see how I stand regarding MOT etc.