Jerry can holder
- Thread starter Tookey
- Start date
mark61
Forum Member
Would be thinking similar. Carry cans on back crossing europe, etc, as soon on rougher roads move to side or even front.
Tookey
Forum Member
Don't want to do side because of the 'rip effect' of a mistake potentially could leave severe body damage and due to the tippy nature I am aiming for central mounting. I might be mistaken but IF I remember correctly UK does not permit front mounted, I know when I researched that option there was a good reason not to, but might have to recheck.
Fibre glass can take the stress and strains of everything the ocean can through at it, surely it can carry 45 kilos if done correctly
Tookey
Forum Member
The only solid point is the chassis, a little over a foot back from the lip of the body. More weight and reduced departure angle.
Please don't get me wrong.........I appreciate the ideas being thrown around and truly welcome them. Keep them coming
Tookey
Forum Member
mark61
Forum Member
Potential, yes, like it
Bull bar mounted, doubt east of Europe anyone would care
Thats easy sorted with bull bar. Even when over east, when on tarmac cans on back, going on dirt roads, pull over, kettle on, air down tyres, move cans to the front, 10/15 mins prep, all part of the fun.
I'm getting excited just thinking about it, and I'm not even going.
Tookey
Forum Member
I do have 2 small external lockers but tools and spares will fill them
Tookey
Forum Member
Customer service still exists, I got a reply from the fibreglass company;
don’t have a particular rule of thumb for load bearing 20ltrs to a fibreglass panel so you may have to over engineer it a bit to ensure it is strong enough. For this I would maybe bond in some plywood to the inside of the panel. To do this drill a peace of ply with a 10mm drill bit every 2" or so, then use freefix bonding paste to bond the plywood plate in place, the holes will allow excess paste to squeeze through and lock the plate into position. It is a good idea to chamfer the edges of the ply before installation so that you can then fibreglass over the plywood once the bonding paste has gone off. The chamfered edge allow ease of applying the fibreglass. Use two layers of 300g biaxial fibreglass cloth with epoxy when sheathing over. Then drill the mounting holes slightly larger than you need them once this is done fill the holes with an epoxy and colloidal silica mix and leave to cure before drilling the mounting holes again to the correct size. By doing this you will seal the plywood against potential water ingress around the bolts.
don’t have a particular rule of thumb for load bearing 20ltrs to a fibreglass panel so you may have to over engineer it a bit to ensure it is strong enough. For this I would maybe bond in some plywood to the inside of the panel. To do this drill a peace of ply with a 10mm drill bit every 2" or so, then use freefix bonding paste to bond the plywood plate in place, the holes will allow excess paste to squeeze through and lock the plate into position. It is a good idea to chamfer the edges of the ply before installation so that you can then fibreglass over the plywood once the bonding paste has gone off. The chamfered edge allow ease of applying the fibreglass. Use two layers of 300g biaxial fibreglass cloth with epoxy when sheathing over. Then drill the mounting holes slightly larger than you need them once this is done fill the holes with an epoxy and colloidal silica mix and leave to cure before drilling the mounting holes again to the correct size. By doing this you will seal the plywood against potential water ingress around the bolts.
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
This is good if your panel is flat. I like the bit about sealing the ply, something often forgotten when making composite panels.
For a curved panel I would still reinforce with aramid cloth of tape.
Tookey
Forum Member
Just to be sure.........so your recommending a layer of aramid cloth and then bonding ply to that?
SquirrellCook
Forum Member
No, just heavily abrade the surface your going to laminate to and use about four layers of this https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/300g-22-twill-kevlar-cloth. It's slower to go off, but use epoxy resin to laminate it. Shop around I expect you'll find better prices. It will be seriously strong.
HarryInHudds
Forum Member
though I havn't direct experience of aramid, from talking to avant-garde motorsport people I thought aramid (=kevlar) was great for resisting puncture and abrasion, but use glass fibre for strength (or carbon-fibre if you're posh) . Ultimate was CF protected by a top layer of kevlar.
Either way, the shape will be more important. IMO you still cant just hang 2 jerrycans in the middle of a GRP panel, even in a monocoque, you've got to design a structure to carry this weight, esp off-road. E.g. add wood struts back the the chassis, using them as a former to glass over and create a box section.
Or just do it in steel, so that failure is some bending, rather than disintegration of your body structure...
Either way, the shape will be more important. IMO you still cant just hang 2 jerrycans in the middle of a GRP panel, even in a monocoque, you've got to design a structure to carry this weight, esp off-road. E.g. add wood struts back the the chassis, using them as a former to glass over and create a box section.
Or just do it in steel, so that failure is some bending, rather than disintegration of your body structure...
Tookey
Forum Member
I believe the aramid is to be used in conjunction with glass fibre.