Camper van water system

[Squiffy]

Na think I'll give that a miss!

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I think as the great as Duncan Bannatyne used to say, I'm oot.
https://smallbusiness.co.uk/duncan-bannatyne-2-2558083/

 

[mistericeman]

It's like some sort of quiz but less fun,.....

It's like when folks post with an issue and can't be bothered listing all the relevant details like make/model/year of the base,model OR its something easily findable on Google etc ....

Google/YouTube are my FIRST ports of call with tech issues as someone has already had the self same problem .

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I wish I had a Sh1t to give.

I thought it might be interesting but any interest was removed before we got going shame, as a breed we like to help, but like a man with diarrhoea we need something to go on.

 

[TonyM]

Tony your plan is definitely workable, I've done many a plumbing job on motorhomes and campervans and looking at your plan it is a workable solution to how you require it to work if that's what you require. The comments I've made were meant to be helpful obviously I mis understand your post. Phil

@Squiffy After thinking about it some more, I think I've found a fault with my plan. Although I had not mentioned it, I was assuming that I would still be able to use the shower and sink water as normal while filling the large tank with hot water via recirculation. But when I was describing it to a friend (who is not even a DIY type), we came to the realization that the cold water pipes would become hot water pipes during the recirculation time. That means no cold water at that time -- which would probably be several hours.

So, I'm going to have to modify my plan. I don't blame you for not seeing this because I didn't tell you that I was assuming I would be able to use cold water at that time.

 

[Squiffy]

This ofcourse is why the majority of posters on this tread have complained of lacking information. How you operate the taps is obviously dependent on how you open and close them. To most of us we would not even contemplate that many alternatives mainly because that many alternatives is a little ludicrous unless you are into mind bending puzzle solutions and I'm sure that in the general opinion of motorhome/campervan builders your pluming schematic although viable is totaly unwarranted unless as I previous stated you intend to go into the depths of the Congo Phil.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

There is possibly a better means to achieving your ends but not knowing what they are it's impossible to figure it out, you say Storrington 100 litres of hot water, do you intend some way of keeping it warm and why would you need to

 

[TonyM]

This ofcourse is why the majority of posters on this tread have complained of lacking information. How you operate the taps is obviously dependent on how you open and close them. To most of us we would not even contemplate that many alternatives mainly because that many alternatives is a little ludicrous unless you are into mind bending puzzle solutions and I'm sure that in the general opinion of motorhome/campervan builders your pluming schematic although viable is totaly unwarranted unless as I previous stated you intend to go into the depths of the Congo Phil.

I've come up with a solution: an extra 3-way valve that allows cold water to be drawn from the other tank if needed -- it requires temporary disruption of the recycling mode, but I think it will work for my needs.

I appreciate all the help regarding whether this is feasible. Thanks again.

 

[Nabsim]

Not sure how successful you will be doing this in a van but I guess if depends how hot you want the water and for how long. I run a 22ltr calorifier and while it can be piping hot when I park up it does not hold heat for long. Calorifier tank does have the factory insulation where cold water tanks usually don’t (inboard at least). My system will get hot enough to burn you so utilises a mixer valve on the hot water outlet that mixes hot and cold together for the hot water system at preset temp (adjustable).

May be worth you looking at a few boat systems and see how they do it

The comment Wildebus made about legionella is very relevant in your application, temperature has to be maintained to stop it. I would seek advice from professionals before going far with this, you need to make sure you aren’t going to risk killing yourself or others.

I have toyed with using natural water sources but if I ever get round to it I will let the tank be ‘raw’ water and apply filtration at point of use. Not sure that would be an option for you if wanting to use one tank as hot or cold as needed.

 

[Sprinter 1 cup]

I put 250 ltr cold water tank in sprinter 2020. but now only use it in the summer holidays and kiting at beach ! I'm Getting 100 150 ltr for meets In the uk as showers on site. And taps are everywhere. Easier to carry long hose. I think

Not needed river water as yet and would be last result and for the engine only and piss in it first.!. after I go 3rd world I think lol van would have to be 4x4 4 that part of of wilding. My sprinters rear wheel drive only. So thats what I built.


I've got the Bobil hot water heating system. Heat comes from hot air pipe off a Chinese heater.
My 20 ltr hot tank is too small. 50 ltr copper imurtion tank is what i will be thinking to be installed. Now. 2023

Why not use heat system humble road on you tub uses . Now thats plumbing.

Good luck I built to my van not for other's so should you.

I say keep tanks for river water separate for now. And may be on roof in 4 or 10 inch tube
12mm Pipes cheap so keep them separately too. hot cold. I have 4 tees and 2 pumps and no elbows in my water system.

 

[Nabsim]

Your Bobil should be a similar setup to mine with the mixer valve 1 cup. Have you tried increasing tank temperature so it will add more cold water when you draw off? Bobil probably have info on it, I think my little bit of knowledge came from SureCal as it’s their gear I have fitted. Think it was quite a high percentage extra hot water if gave by mixing, mine would be around 80 degrees C at the tank I guess when heated from engine coolant and I think outlet temp at mixer valve may be set at 65c

 

[Sprinter 1 cup]

Your Bobil should be a similar setup to mine with the mixer valve 1 cup. Have you tried increasing tank temperature so it will add more cold water when you draw off? Bobil probably have info on it, I think my little bit of knowledge came from SureCal as it’s their gear I have fitted. Think it was quite a high percentage extra hot water if gave by mixing, mine would be around 80 degrees C at the tank I guess when heated from engine coolant and I think outlet temp at mixer valve may be set at 65c

My one Bobil is not live feed, its 2020 version. the new one has metal tank 2022. But to small. I have tap on / off, to fill 20ltr tank is to small for 2 showers and washing up. thats why I need copper insurlation and imurtion type. 30 or 50 ltr..

 

[TonyM]

Thank you @Nabsim and @Sprinter 1 cup for sharing your experience. I definitely agree that dealing with microbes is a priority, and for that you need to either get all surfaces hot enough to kill them or clean regularly using bleach or some disinfectant. Of course, this also applies to cold water tanks if they are in an environment that gets them warm enough (eg, summer heat). As I wrote in my original post, this is not intended for drinking water.

My latest plan keeps the recirculating water pipes separate from the cold water supply lines, and I plan electrical control of the valve associated with recirculating heating (H in the new figure). That way I can introduce a thermostat to shut off recirculation once a set temperature is reached. The Truma heater installation already involves a safety overflow if the temperature gets too high in "normal" (non-recirculating) heating, but this additional thermostat will give the control needed over the recirculating system.

 

[wildebus]

Thank you @Nabsim and @Sprinter 1 cup for sharing your experience. I definitely agree that dealing with microbes is a priority, and for that you need to either get all surfaces hot enough to kill them or clean regularly using bleach or some disinfectant. Of course, this also applies to cold water tanks if they are in an environment that gets them warm enough (eg, summer heat). As I wrote in my original post, this is not intended for drinking water.

doesn't matter if not drinking water. it can still be taken in when showering or just using. How many hot water tanks are used for drinking water? Apart from which, drinking infected water is not actually the main risk anyway.

Legionnaires Disease Cause and Spread | CDC

Causes and Spread of Legionella

www.cdc.gov

How It Spreads

After Legionella grows and multiplies in a building water system, water containing Legionella can spread in droplets small enough for people to breathe in. People can get Legionnaires’ disease or Pontiac fever when they breathe in small droplets of water in the air that contain the bacteria.

Less commonly, people can get sick by aspiration of drinking water containing Legionella. This happens when water accidently goes into the lungs while drinking. People at increased risk of aspiration include those with swallowing difficulties.

Remember to put a health warning on the entrance door to your campervan.

 

[Sprinter 1 cup]

Bobil have a small constant curalating pump, like a fish tank to move hot water . I think thats a good Idear.

Leaks and failures and drain downs over time.

My thinking your driving a earth quake and hoping all your tanks and vales are on the out side / underneath / roof. As no picture.
I have 2 pumps 1 hot, 1 cold. Pumps As close to tanks as possible. if you put a shower in make it a good pressuried one.!
My acuerater is still in box unused.and todays pumps are ok upto 5m @ 12mm. And More it gives z leaks protenal at high pressure.

All you can do is carry a few spares , I will only carry a aa card !. Lol

 

[Red Dwarf]

Was never a fan of over complicated..... My van’s water system looks stone age in comparison!

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Mine too, tank to Shurflo pump, pump to heater and cold taps, heater to hot taps, any more is just wasted effort unless you have a special need.

 

[wildebus]

Mine is same.
The one thing I would be tempted to do occasionally is fit an small expansion tank to maybe double the 10L hot water capacity to have two nice hot showers in a row, but in truth the amount of times it would be noticeable it was done could count on fingers of one hand each year (only need aorund 30 mins to heat another shower full anyway).

 

[Nabsim]

Mine is same.
The one thing I would be tempted to do occasionally is fit an small expansion tank to maybe double the 10L hot water capacity to have two nice hot showers in a row, but in truth the amount of times it would be noticeable it was done could count on fingers of one hand each year (only need aorund 30 mins to heat another shower full anyway).

Can you turn up the temperature of the heated water David? If so it may ease your situation as you would use less hot/more cold in the mix, would depend how close you are to getting your two showers now though.

 

[wildebus]

Can you turn up the temperature of the heated water David? If so it may ease your situation as you would use less hot/more cold in the mix, would depend how close you are to getting your two showers now though.

I don't really ever run out of hot water. And I don't really bother with the routine of "get wet - water off - lather up - water on - rinse off" type of shower either. I just tend to shower like in the house. (bad practice I know).

My comment was more about what I could do if I could really be bothered to allow two full proper showers

Just for info, the Truma Ultrastor will run on Electric, Gas or both at the same time. However, the temperature is only adjustable on the Gas - the Electric is preset at 60C (I think that is pretty typical but thought I would just mention it).