Any faults in Wiring Diagram?

[Millie Master]

Now there is a very well respected YouTuber who has wired his self-build in a similar way to how your diagram was. To be frank, that is not the way to do it, but because he has a popular channel, people copy it. And yes, it works, but not optimally - and if you are starting fresh, why not do it using the right standards?

Oh so very sadly,time and time again and ever again I read various YouTube, supposedly knowledge kings who are quite frankly talking out of their assienders and time and time again I forever keep suggesting that members of some of these highly suspect YouTube groups ought to join a highly respected and FREE to join group like ours!

 

[Pudsey Bear]

you can always report YT vids if you think they are dangerous etc.

 

[BrettD]

Right so I have updated the diagram.

I’ve added the fuse block to include the positive from the solar controller, mains charger and the distribution block all with their respected fuses.

Solar controller is 20a = 25a fuse
Mains charger 15a output = 20a fuse
Distribution block max output 37.33a = 40a fuse

I’ve added a NEG busbar to join all the NEG wires together.

CAT fuse added to POS terminal of 100a, 35mm wire for connecting batteries and from batteries to NEG busbar, POS fuse block and
Battery cut off switch.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I'd have a connection from the NEG bus bar direct to the chassis too.

 

[BrettD]

I'd have a connection from the NEG bus bar direct to the chassis too.

Oh crap I was meant to do that, just forgot

One moment

 

[BrettD]

Sorted

Ground connection added from busbar

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I think I'd use the same size as the battery cable too.

 

[wildebus]

Right so I have updated the diagram.

I’ve added the fuse block to include the positive from the solar controller, mains charger and the distribution block all with their respected fuses.

Solar controller is 20a = 25a fuse
Mains charger 15a output = 20a fuse
Distribution block max output 37.33a = 40a fuse

I’ve added a NEG busbar to join all the NEG wires together.

CAT fuse added to POS terminal of 100a, 35mm wire for connecting batteries and from batteries to NEG busbar, POS fuse block and
Battery cut off switch.

I've not used one of those little square battery post style fuses that you are showing before. meant to be very handy, so a good choice there

The fuse box you have to the battery - It maybe you are showing a blade fuse box for diagramatic purposes, but I would recommend using a Midi-style fuse box (I linked to one earlier). Blade fuses can be problematical, especially at the higher currents. the unit I linedk to also incorporates a NEG busbar so you can lose the seperate one you are showing (It is much more akin to the other 12V Blade fuse box you have in the diagram with the NEG block and LED indicators).
You are also a bit overboard with the cable sizes using 16mm to the chargers. They are much larger than needed and while going bigger than the minimum is generally a much better idea, you will physically not be able to connect cables of that gauge into some of the lower-current devices. For 20A Solar and 30A Mains, something like 6mm would be perfectly fine.
Using 16mm2 to the multiway Habitation Fusebox is not a bad idea though, especially as you have a Compressor Cooler and Diesel Heater. Both of those units have an initial surge on use, the fridge each time the compressor starts; the heater with the glowplugs. Wiring to both of those devices should be thicker than the normal current on use would suggest. For the Fridge, 4mm2 minimum, but maybe 6mm if a distance from the supply. For the Heater, the original wiring loom might just be ok if you get rid of the excess cable (don't tuck it out the way, cut it off).
On the flip side, the MaxxAir fan is very efficient and you don't need a heavy cable at all. just use the same as the USB sockets are using.

 

[BrettD]

Ok so I’ve added the midi style fuse block, somehow it confused me yesterday which is why I went for the blade fuse holder with separate NEG busbar, but I think I’ve worked it out now

Solar controller and mains charger wires reduced to 6mm

Heater and Fridge wires increased to 4mm

Regarding the midi fuses, couldn’t find anywhere that has 25a so I’ve upped the Solar controller fuse at the fuse block to 30a

I take it I can get the mini ANL fuses to work with this fuse block as well right?

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I got most of my stuff from here but they look to have seriously changed what they stock now.

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[wildebus]

Ok so I’ve added the midi style fuse block, somehow it confused me yesterday which is why I went for the blade fuse holder with separate NEG busbar, but I think I’ve worked it out now

Solar controller and mains charger wires reduced to 6mm

Heater and Fridge wires increased to 4mm

Regarding the midi fuses, couldn’t find anywhere that has 25a so I’ve upped the Solar controller fuse at the fuse block to 30a

I take it I can get the mini ANL fuses to work with this fuse block as well right?

as far as fuses go, there are a lot of standards .....

some very common ones:

• Push-in Blade Fuses AKA ATO/ATC - Mini, Standard and Maxi
• Bolt-down Fuses -
  • Small - Midi and Mega are usually the best. Midi, Mini-ANL and Metal Strip fuses are identical in dimensions so are interchangable with each other. (That Midi Fuse block actually comes with six Mini-ANL fuses - 4 fitted, 2 spare)
  • Large - Mega and ANL. I used to use ANL Fuses and there is a nice variety of Fuse Holders available for the ANL, but I have tended to use the Mega fuses recently as the standard holder stands up to high temperatures better (if you are pushing 200+ Amps through a fuse, a fair amount of heat is generated and while the fuses are ok for that, the holders warm up pretty nicely). Mega and ANL fuses are similar in size but are not interchangeable.

 

[BrettD]

Brilliant thank you everyone for all the help, diagram is looking completely different now