24 volt Eberspacher

StreetSleeper

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
I have decided to go down the Eberspacher route but with a twist. I am going to use a 24 volt Eberspacher heater with a 12V to 24V 20A DC-DC Step-Up Voltage Supply Module. The heater has cost me £103 + £10 P&P, the 12v to 24 v cost £27.33, total £140.33: there was nothing at this price in 12 volt so I have gone for it
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wildebus

Forum Member
You will, if there is not one fitted, want an external temp sensor. "External" in this case means external to the heater body and this will let you set th room temp much more accurately. The Eberspachrr one is quite pricey, but if you look at that Eberspachrr resource site (the one that is most about varnish) they have info on how to make one for very little money.

(I don't think the timer controller includes a temp sensor within it?)
 
SquirrellCook

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
That looks like a bargain. In your picture it looks like you have a external temperature sensor. The heater also has one in it's air intake. This is the one I use in Murky. I'm planning on doing the same with Betty. Mine has cost me £1200.00 :(
 
StreetSleeper

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Diesel heater arrived this afternoon. After unwrapping it and checking that all the relevant parts were present I noticed there was some paperwork. Opening up one of the catalogues I found this receipt. As this system clearly has a brand new pump, I presume that it had never been fitted after it had been tested; although that was quite a few years ago.

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After the initial clean-up, I decided my first job should be removing the four base studs.

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And replacing them with four new stainless steel studs.

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A dab of Locktite and the job's a good 'un. Hopefully, I should not have any problem now removing the heater at a later date.

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Rae
 
StreetSleeper

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Sorting through all the parts last night I came across, what I would presume to be, the original pump. So without any further ado I linked up two 12 volt batteries and thought I would give it a try; as I suspected, ceased solid. So what I thought I would do, take the both ends off it and leave it in a jar of vinegar. The reason I choose vinegar is it removes rust and is very cheap.

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In the morning rinsed it down, went over the outside with a wire brush, powered it up, still no response. I know very little about electrics and even less about electric pumps but, one thing I do know, if you tap them with a hammer eventually they tend to free up and this is what I did and Eureka now we have a pump that is working. My next job was to check the internals, basically a spring and a ball bearing. The ball bearing has to be three millimetres round and the spring 10 millimetres long. Here we have a picture with the spring under slight tension due to the fact I couldn't take a photograph without the spring rolling away but, I can assure you, it was 10 millimetres long.

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The moment of truth. Two batteries linked together, jam jar with some diesel in it and me flicking the live wire on the positive terminal and it works a treat.

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Here we have the filter that is situated inside the pump, from what I am lead to believe, not really needed if you're running an external filter and by cutting the gauze off you can get better results; which I have done in this case.

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Here we have a Chinese pump next to the Eberspacher pump. I have run both pumps and I was happy with the results from both of them but the main difference, the Eberspacher pump is a lot quieter.

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I am more than happy to use the Eberspacher pump as I believe it to be a more quality item.

Rae
 

wildebus

Forum Member
result :)
BTW, did you try the 24V pump with a 12V supply?

interesting that the pump is labelled for both Petrol and Diesel. Read lots of comments about kerosene doesn't have enough lube but diesel does and the pumps will therefore fail with kerosene. What about petrols lube quality? must be different to both of those?
 

wildebus

Forum Member
This video I saw this morning and found it interesting.
It is a not-dramatic sensible video comparing Chinese Heaters against Webasto, but I think it is safe to say Webasto and Eberspacher ('Espar' in the US) are comparable in quality, so where the chap says "Webasto" I think "Eber" :)
 
SquirrellCook

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
I normally hate watching these things, but I did. I think the comparisons were very biased and misleading. Without doing some scientific back to back tests different conclusions could be drawn. Quality issues, well what would you expect is't a fifth of the price. What I don't like is the webasto's cable coming out of the inlet port. That just looks like a lazy bodge on the germans part.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
SquirrellCook said:
I normally hate watching these things, but I did. I think the comparisons were very biased and misleading. Without doing some scientific back to back tests different conclusions could be drawn. Quality issues, well what would you expect is't a fifth of the price. What I don't like is the webasto's cable coming out of the inlet port. That just looks like a lazy bodge on the germans part.
Click to expand...
I saw it as a comparison of product matterials irrepective of price - that is a different matter.
I have not see that cable method before and actually I think it was a clever way to have power to the pump in a sealed manner

so I guess I would have to disagree with you pretty well 100% on this video :)
 
mistericeman

mistericeman

Forum Member
Pays you money and takes your choice.... For useage where its, not going to be the end of the world if it croaks then the Chinese one is a no brainer (especially bought from a trusted UK source)

IF its fitted in something where its a pain if it goes pear shaped (campervan/motorhome that I'm away in for two weeks on holiday in the middle of winter)
Then the genuine eber/webasto one is a no brainer (I don't like being cold)

Horses for courses....

Obviously the cheaper one will use cheaper components and be subject to less quality control and compliance testing as well as not having a well known makers name on it that have a reputation to be bothered about.

The pump wiring through the combustion air inlet is a great idea IMHO.
 
trevskoda

trevskoda

Forum Member
There is one in my van but it has never worked and truth is im never that cold, must get a look at it sometime.
 
StreetSleeper

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
The 12v to 24v arrived today so I set about making a mock up to see if I could bench test it............. control working, glow plug working, I'm sure I even heard the fan rotating slowly but what I didn't hear was the pump...... gave up after a couple of attempts .... try again later, need to recharge the battery.
 
StreetSleeper

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Latest update: switch on and after some time the pump works for 4 to 16 clicks and then stops, smoke from the exhaust but no fan working. Fan works fine when disconnected and running off battery and this is on 24 volts from 2 fully charged batteries.
 
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