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i don't know Trev, i'll chew the problem over and get back to you,but i warn you, the answer might be unpalatable

simplest way i know. gripfill or sikaflex or stixall an upright of about 50x50mm ,after working out your heights,to the walls,each side, as near to the hole where the rear door stays go. i assume the walls are panelled. across these uprights gripfill a length of 30x30 x3mm steel box section...

i've done a number of these in different ways. what van is it ? and how do you want to access the space under it? easy enough to do any combination in wood

i'd use steel,it's not that much harder to work with,and would be a better job imo

just out of interest- my Shurflo pump ran dry for 2-3 days before i noticed it .no harm done ! wouldn't advocate it mind

take the positive wire from the battery to a 5amp inline fuse from there to either wire on the tap, then extend the other wire from the tap to the brown wire on the pump take the blue wire from the pump to the negative on the battery if your leisure battery negative is connected to the van...

if you mean- can the microswitch be wired to turn the pump on when you open a tap - then yes .

the whole point of making the wooden frames and sticking them to the wall/ceiling first,is that no adjustments will be needed,no insulation is anywhere near a drill bit or blade,and after the corner holes are drilled, the inner panelling and ceiling can be fitted. then on a nice day,cutting...

i have tried explaining ring mains to european electricians,but they couldn't grasp the concept, as for 100 amp fuses ..... !

make your own then ,i used to . go and look at sliding hatch covers on boats and barges and have a bit of a think

they let in a fair amount of light,but i just changed one for a mini- heki,which is clear plastic ,and it let in an amazing amount of light ! BIG difference

a few tips the easiest way i have found to fit a window or rooflight is to make a timber frame to fit the window and glue it to the metal-----then insulate and panel the walls and ceilings--------then drill a half inch hole in the panelling covering the aperture ----insert edge trimming router...

or just warm up the hose and stretch it ,then hoseclip ,i do this on 15mm copper pipe no problem

this would be the ideal pump for a pressurised system,if you want to go that way. it can be mounted above or below the water tank,and has a switch that operates when any tap is turned on SHURFLO 20psi Trailking Water Pump 12v - Caravan / Motorhome 2095- 204-412 | eBay or you can use a drop in...

no,you'll need a pump cold water into the lower pipe,hot from the top. the cold inlet has a small pipe and tap for draining in winter,freezing will kill the heater !

not sure what you need to know,electrics,plumbing or gas ?

to stop condensation,glue carpet or even old sheets to the ceiling. the bigger relay and thicker wires would make the charging of the leisure battery [LB] more efficient,but i have a smartcom 30a with 4mm wire and my LB charges fine,and has done for years,but i do drive about a lot . connecting...

yeah sorry,thought i'd put it in ! or if you want a really simple system,this MOTOR HOME SELF SWITCHING, VOLTAGE SENSING SPLIT CHARGE RELAY KIT - 12V, 30 AMP | eBay is connected to the positive of the van battery and the positve of the leisure battery,very easy to fit,and it has a seperate wire...

just take a look at this diagram,the relay is about 2 quid in Maplins. the biggest problem people find is identifying the alternator wire.any wire that's only live when the ignition is on will do

or stripped out caravan for a project ,not too dear and not too far ta got one now