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REmember if you put alloy next to steel the galvanic problems will happen, the alloy will disolve as the electrons flow from alloy to steel, you have made a battery, same with alloy rivets to steel, the frame should have been 316 stainless.

I worked on cars/vans most of my life, ford is not the top of my wish list, yes you will require a toilet washroom, a simple 12v water heater and cassette loo is easy to sort, keep the cassette door inside as no cutting of van required, as for single glase cold noisey windows, no thanks the...

Hi Pierre, what are you building or have, any pics.

Hence why i have old school non smart altanator and home built electrics with a votronic solar regulator, i also have a switch and h duty 200a relay to connect les and starter batteries for a jump start, it also bypasses the old bus diode blocker which redudced the voltage to 13.6, now once i...

Yes and thats why not many of them ither in my cave, dust collctors is ornaments, if i sit to long the wife calls me that LOL.

That seems daft, whats the point in having it, bit like marrying a dead woman.:unsure:

There has to be an air gap under the panels to keep cool and better power, a deflector is ok but doing so also causes suction on the top which will try and lift the panel, aircraft wings work like this in a small part, thin deflected air over the top and thick less compressed air under them, you...

Loach led carbon batteries will discharge lower and can sit at half charge without distruction, and have 1500 cycles, cost about £200 100ah.

The trick is to fart at the same time you open the slide, this equels the pressure and no blow back will happen. If after decending one must hold onto the dangly bits or you will be in trouble.:eek:😂

WEll known that any alteration from production line, ie big engines or 5 speed g boxes will not be allowed, things like s belts retro fitt will be ok.

Why not do away with the door and install bottle from inside as i did, still you may find one somewhere.

Loosing so much power converting from 12v to 230v, 12v lights and usb 5v charge points are the way to go, gas to cook etc. I do have a 230v fridge on a 600w smart inverter running 200ah batts and 200w solar.

Ebay and f book are full of campervan half finished dreams, many are a lashup and some beyond fixable at silly high prices, my van was bought like that and required a full strip & rebuild, lucky i bought it for buttons with 50th on the clock and a new recon engine fitted.

Mine keep the electric 230v fridge running through a 600w smart inverter, so if stopped the fridge is drawing but panels keep the batts up to dark, the batts will last well into next day so it works for me, mine are behind a high roof nose so little or no drag.

Mine are bolted through, i used fence brakets bent to 90deg, cheap as chips and galved, stainless bolts to, then under the panels i used a boat deck gland to bring the cables in, 10 years now with no probs.

My van was set with thin ply over insulation and riveted to the steel box frame which the outside alloy panels are fixed to, i used wide head rivets then covered the panels with trim cloth.

Sine of getting old when you cannot find your multitool, or remember how to use it and what for.;)

But if a painted roof then alls holding it is a thin layer of paint which may let go, it has happened.

Do you have an mppt control unit rather than the old PWM type.

Remember to isolate the solar panel first or you will distroy the mppt regulator.