Victron Multiplus - Setting up the Inverter

wildebus

Forum Member
The Victron Multiplus (and sister Easyplus and EasySolar) have an configurable Inverter, which can be setup to best suit the installation it is in.

To configure the Multiplus, you use an application called VE.Config (Victron Energy.Configurator). This is a free application downloadable from Victron Energy and to use on the Multiplus you need to use either an Victron MK3-USB Dongle to connect the Multiplus to your Computer, or do this remotely via Victrons web-based VRM.
There are various tabs in VE.Config, but just concerned with the Inverter one here ...

1605705251057.png

There are settings for the voltage parameters - I'd recommend leaving them at the default unless you have a specific reason to change them (mine above are different). Similarly, you would usually leave the other check boxes and entries as they are, but the section I do want to cover specifically is on the AES section in the bottom half.

AES is generally read to mean "Automatic Energy Selection" and used on a Fridge to automatically switch between 12V, 240V and Gas power sources.
However, in Victron Energy speak, AES stands for "Automatic Energy Saving" and is a technique used to save power when AC power is not actually needed, but still immediately available when called on.

The first setting in AES is setting the Start and Stop power thresholds. Exactly what these should be does depend on your own AC products and how you want to use them. As an example, I used a Multiplus with a Mains AC Fridge. You want the Inverter to 'wake up' when the Compressor kicks on, and then off again when the compressor turns off. You also probably don't want the Inverter to start up when you open the fridge door and the little light comes on.
So that section is a matter of trail and error to get the right numbers for your needs.

The next section decides what type of AES is being used - Search Mode or Modified Sine Wave (MSW).

AES - Modified Sine Wave
What MSW does is alters the output waveform to reduce the no-load power. (note this is only when there is no load or a load lower than the Start Power threshold set earlier. When the Inverter actually switches on, it outputs a Pure Sine Wave - and one which is usually cleaner than the one from the National Grid!)
If you were to check the voltage output from the Inverter when in AES Modified Sine Wave mode, you would see the voltage reduced.
Below shows the voltage change when the Multiplus Inverter is in AES MSW and EHU is removed - the voltage drops from the incoming voltage (in this case around 240V to 245V) to 145V.
1605706828345.png

What you see as a user of the Inverter is that if you turn on a mains device that is below that "On Threshold" is that you don't get full power as the voltage stays low. As an example, I mentioned the Fridge Light... in AES MSW mode, if I open the fridge door, the internal light comes on and actually stays on even though the inverter has not come on (it is actually in a specific mode - neither on OR off), but the light is not as bright as usual.
This MSW mode might or might not be suitable for your setup. In terms of energy use, it is better than just leaving the Inverter switched on, but is not the most efficient AES mode.

AES - Search Mode
Search Mode saves more power than MSW mode when in standby. This works by the inverter coming on momentarily every few seconds, seeing how much demand there is and either stays on of there is demand, or goes back to sleep otherwise for a few more seconds.
Because this means the inverter is essentially off for most of the time, the power use is significantly reduced compared just being left on.
There are some side-effects and downsides to this AES Mode. Taking the Fridge again as an example, when you open the door, the light will flash on each time the Inverter does its search and then goes off. Actually a handy way to check the Inverter is on or not, but it does mean if you want to look in the fridge in the dark, it could be a pain!
Another thing that can happen is if you have a device that beeps when it gets power, it may beep everytime the Inverter does its search. I have an Induction hob that does this and so it would beep every few seconds. Easily addressed by fitting an spur on/off switch and just having that turned off by the switch until you want to use the Hob.
Something I noticed with the spur I fitted was that the Neon light in it would cause the Inverter to stay on regardless. I don't know the exact reason for this, and actually used it to my advantage as a way to turn the inverter on regardless of low power. However, this might be something to be aware of if you have a mains device that has a Neon light in a spur switch and you want to be able to leave that switch on but have the Inverter in AES mode. In that situation you might need to chose the MSW option for AES (or change the switch?).

I'll post the energy differences between all the different ways to setup the Inverter in the next post.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Ok, so let's cover the power used in each mode the Inverter has....

Going back to the Multiplus generally, there are the following possible modes it can operate normally in:
  1. On. All functions available
  2. Off. No functions available
  3. Charger Only. When EHU plugged in, you have Mains AC available, and the batteries will charge. But no Power Assist and if you lose EHU, you lose AC
  4. Inverter Only. Any EHU connected is ignored. You have no charging and the Multiplus is just working as an Inverter
  5. Paassthru. Similar on 'Charger Only', but without any Battery Charging. So when EHU plugged in, you have Mains AC available and that is it.
Modes 1,2 & 3 are accessible via the Multiplus's Front Panel switch or remote Digital Multi Control.
Mode 4 is added in when using either a VE.Bus Smart Dongle or the GX Remote Console
Mode 5 is a programmed mode that is only activated in certain circumstances (which are not relevant to this thread).


Back to the topic :) The following is a screenshot of a couple of days in the life of the Multiplus, during which time it was configured in different modes

In timeline order we have the Multiplus in Energy Saving mode, using MSW; Then I turned the Inverter off; Then back on but with the AES in Search Mode, and finally disabled AES so the Inverter is just running in a normal generic way.
1605716434642.png

You might notice that in the AES modes, the Inverter is shown to be in "Low Power" mode - this means it is not off, but also not inverting.

Going onto the power that is being used at the different times, firstly it should be noted that these numbers are for the Victron Multiplus 12/1600. A more powerful Multiplus is likely to have a higher standby use; a smaller Multiplus likely to be less. Also a different brand of Inverter (or different types of Victron Inverter for that matter) will be different again and will have different energy saving modes.
Also there are no AC Loads present. The AC outlet of the Multiplus is connected to the Motorhome 'ring' but nothing is switched on.

So the power use... The following graph shows the current being drawn from the battery at the different times.
1605716898288.png

The second set - "Inverter Off" - shows the motorhome system baseline current draw. there is a 0.8A draw in total from the various devices that are powered up. This 0.8A is a key number to bear in mind.
The first set - "AES - Mod Sine Wave" - is the simplier of the two AES options. In this mode, the Inverter has an constant overhead of 0.6A. This represents an overhead drain of 14.4Ah/Day purely due to to the inverter. Or around 180Wh. Parked up and unused in the summer in a Motorhome with Solar, that kind of drain could easily be covered by PV Harvesting I would imagine.
The last set - "Inverter On, No AES" - would be the default for an inverter with no energy saving enabled. In this mode, there is an overhead of 1.0A - or 24Ah/Day. By removing AES with MSW, you would waste an extra 10Ah (120W) per day and 300Wh of your Solar Harvesting will go to covering Inverter Losses.

The final Set (number 3 in the order) is AES - Search Mode. This would be the recommended mode for most efficient Inverter in Standby Mode.
The "noisy" line in this set is a little incorrect. In search mode the inverter goes on momentarily every few seconds. The reason there is noise on the current line is because the monitoring system only samples the monitor (in this case the BMV-712 in the system) once a minute - so what is shown on the graph depends on if the Inverter was in the woken-up search point or sleeping in the inbetween times - or somewhere in between, hence the different values in the graph. A good indication of what the Current use is in this mode is to just take the average - this is around 0.95A.
So in AES - Search Mode, there is an overhead of 0.15A, which works out to be 3.6Ah/Day, or around 50Wh.

3.6Ah/Day is a fairly minimal overhead I would say for the convenience of having an Inverter automatically ready to come on when required. So IMO, the preferred option is AES in Search Mode

The less effective AES MSW mode is still useful of course, but it depends on what kind of devices you want to be able to use and how 'random' their use is (and if you have , say, solar sufficient to make up the extra losses as well as doing its main charging duty). Same as if the Inverter is just left on - down to if you have the charging systems to make up the loss, but in that case, have a bit more to make up.
 
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st3v3

Forum Member
I have mine in AES - MSW. I didn't get on with the other one as I have a couple of Alexa controlled sockets that didn't get on well with it.

What I have done, is to wire a timer in so that the inverter automatically turns off overnight. The fridge seems to stay cool enough as no-one is opening it. Especially if I transfer Ice packs back and forth from the freezer compartment day/night.

I managed to find a 12V time clock thing that works quite well, but I did need to cut a link it had between the feed and the relay contact.

 

wildebus

Forum Member
I have mine in AES - MSW. I didn't get on with the other one as I have a couple of Alexa controlled sockets that didn't get on well with it.

What I have done, is to wire a timer in so that the inverter automatically turns off overnight. The fridge seems to stay cool enough as no-one is opening it. Especially if I transfer Ice packs back and forth from the freezer compartment day/night.

I managed to find a 12V time clock thing that works quite well, but I did need to cut a link it had between the feed and the relay contact.

Interesting about the Alexa sockets. I was minded to get a couple of those but probably won't bother now :)

Looks a neat little 12V timer you found there as well (y)

Something that could be potentially useful with the MSW mode is if you have a device that is 100-250V auto detecting (quite a few transformers are like that) - they could still work in that mode while the Multiplus is still in Low Power mode (tune the power threshold correctly). Could be a bit of a power saving potentially for low power stuff, especially for a big multiplus like a 12/3000?
The Alexa Echo units use transformers like that - have you tried one of those? (I have put a DC Regulator on my Echo to avoid having to use the inverter for it, but if I were using it in MSW mode, I think I might just try using in 'as supplied' with the AC adapter)
 

st3v3

Forum Member
Alexa is just plugged into a 12V to USB socket, works fine. It's an echo dot, 2nd gen I think.

The sockets I have may well be ok with a bit of fiddling around, but I just couldn't be arsed lol
 

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