One door closes......

[Bouydog]

Finally found someone to make me a door to replace the bus type doors on my library conversion. Got it this week and with the good weather took a few days off work to get it fitted.
Having removed the original doors the hole is almost twice the width I need so made a steel frame to fit the gap fixed a sheet of 2mm aluminium to it and fitted in the hole. This part took me two days, today got the door in phew... it was a bit of a struggle doing this on my own but got there just as the light was going. First pic dry fit to make sure it all fitted all out again bus doors back on, frame drilled and painted. Bus doors off again remove all mechanism attach frame attach ally skin fit door. The bottom of the blanking panel will be getting a locker door and the top a small window a trim strip all round and the bottom finishing off. The crappy caraloc will be replaced. Time for a beer.

 

[Greggbear67]

Cracking job mate. Looks a treat....

 

[GEOFF]

Looks good - well worth the effort. Geoff.

 

[Steven]

Great job!

Stephen.

 

[Pugwash69]

Nice job. I did a similar thing with my side door because it didn't lock from the inside. I made a wooden frame to fill the gap left by the seals but drilled the hinge screws through into the original metal frame. My door was damn heavy too!

 

[trevskoda]

Looks good,did you shotblast the steel first,and remember no alloy next to steel,<galvanic table> as the alloy will eat away,coach builders did that on my bus and now the drivers door is falling apart at bottom,stainless 316 steel or alloy framing should be used.

 

[SquirrellCook]

no alloy next to steel,<galvanic table>

Many coachbuilders commit this sin. A simple trick is to use an impermeable insulator between them.

 

[Bouydog]

Looks good,did you shotblast the steel first,and remember no alloy next to steel,<galvanic table> as the alloy will eat away,coach builders did that on my bus and now the drivers door is falling apart at bottom,stainless 316 steel or alloy framing should be used.

Hi trev
I used rubber separators as did the original body builders between the stainless frame and ally skin.
Dave

 

[Bouydog]

Many coachbuilders commit this sin. A simple trick is to use an impermeable insulator between them.

I didn’t know this but seeing the way the body was built after I had stripped it out I thought there must be a reason they used rubber spacers so I did the same.

 

[trevskoda]

A thick mastic bead will work to,remember all bright steel requires shotblasting,if its new covered in blue scale then leave outside to it rusts before blasting,you can pore salty water or urine on it to speed this up,blue scale is as hard as hell and take about 5 times longer to remove,ever wonder why parts of ships are let rust first.

 

[SquirrellCook]

Mill scale is a bugger to remove, so we always use cold rolled steel tubing. It's stronger too. When we use sheet steel we use refrigeration grade steel. Zintec, this has better corrosion resistance than most other grades of mild steel. Can be welded with no issues.

 

[trevskoda]

Good bunch of folk on here with a wealth of knowledge which makes the site.