Low loader box van camper conversion

Dinosawus

Dinosawus

Forum Member
Hello, has anyone done a successful campervan conversion of a low loader box van. I can find plenty of examples of Luton/Box van conversions but not on a low loader chassis commonly used for deliveries of small goods such as food, like an Ocado van. The low loader gives advantages of lower ground height for entering the habitation area and high ceiling height for taller people without the overall height of the vehicle being very high like some box vans. It also has the other advantages of a normal box van, straight walls and some level of existing insulation without being too wide.

Some questions I have are

1. are the walls of the box strong enough to support any internal additions such as bed frames and tables etc or would they need reinforcement with wood or steel framing. If you cut through from the cab to the habitation area would this affect the strength of the box, this probably depends on the design of the box, some appear to have metal arch around the cab bulkhead that would allow this.
2. If you keep the rear double doors as is for access, what is the locking mechanism like on those and how would you open and lock from the inside. Probably needs a custom internal locking mechanism.
3. is the existing insulated panel actually good enough as thermal insulation or would you need further insulation on the interior with internal frame, cutting down the volume achieved.
4. Most have a translucent plastic roof which is waterproof but offers no insulation or strength. What would be the best way to line the ceiling to add strength and protection? Build an internal wooden frame and use insulation materials and panels to finish. Would also require a roof rack to mount solar panels, perhaps this drawback is one the things that puts people off.

Thanks for any advice.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Hi and Welcome :)

I was looking at this type of base vehicle for a conversion, but decided to just get a ready-made Motorhome, so not got any practical advice.

My initial thoughts and expectations however were the following:
1. I would have expected to have to frame out the box for both strength and insulation reasons
2. My design would have kept the rear doors as access to a boxed-in Garage area. I think you would definately need to change the locking mechanism if you want to open and close from the inside. I am sure it would be possible though, but would be more than just a lock-effect - they seem to use pretty heavy-duty long bolts going up and down.
3. See 1.
4. I would think similar kind of framing to the sides, especially if mounting stuff like solar panels or fitting skylights and vents.
5. Flooring - might want to add a false floor to insulate or even a raised floor to have tanks inside but underfloor? (not sure how limited you are underneath with the low-loader floor? probably a fair bit.)

As I say, that was the kind of things I was expecting to do if I went along with the conversion. I reckon the Low-loader Luton would be an excellent base for a conversion
 

Silver sprinter

Forum Member
Hi welcome along, I'm sure some of the more experienced guys will be along soon, look on positives straight sides, and look up aluminium +commercial body fitting companies, you will see how the back of the van is built go see them it costs nothing and thay will love answering and coming up with ways to get access to the rear, and should you think about a side door thay will have extrusion for frame to strengthen it using the cut out from side as your panel and still same colour, ,,I think you will need to add a frame for sides and roof, I don't see that as a draw back, as I think you will need to add insulation, and when doing roof frame you can strengthen the roof where your solar panels and skylights will go, look up southco for locks thay do huge range some lock electronically, don't know what windows you will put in, some go for Seitz windows, some like bonded in Windows, if you like bonded in Windows, look up McLaren motorhomes thay use the Seitz internal frame for a better finish, but don't buy from them just pinch ideas, thers some great experienced guys will be along soon
 
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n brown

n brown

Forum Member
they seem to be built like luton bodies . so everything you do should add to the strength of the carcass if possible . eg , when i put in a side door
,i make them from 3cm steel angle ,door and frame with welded hinges and the cut out used to infill ,
. the inner wall is framed out with 25mm roofing batten so the door frame can be glued and bolted through the panel and 25mm uprights .this makes the whole wall more rigid. any floor to ceiling uprights , shower walls ,kitchen cupboard ends etc can all be well fixed to the ceiling frames and help support the ceiling .
the 25mm uprights are plenty strong enough to support cut or laminated roof supports,
as long as everything's weight is transferred to the floor ,it's good, just beware of over-engineering !


just looked at some further posts and will add this . i make my furniture out of 6mm ply with a 15mm square pine frame ,which has no joints . i have made many interiors using this method with no problems .caravans are made like this and they last for many years . but i still see people making massive frames out of 50x50 mm or more and then covering with 15-18mm ply !. that's not a camper ,it's a tank !
 
Dinosawus

Dinosawus

Forum Member
Great advice on the framing and furniture build, thank you.

I have looked at a lot of low profile coach built MH's and never found one I really like at a price I can justify so the low loader seems a good self build project to achieve the same result, and maybe save a few bucks or not.

My inspiration now is the Advanced RV B-Box which is most certainly over engineered but the interior volume and layout is much more suitable to a tall person like myself.

 

wildebus

Forum Member
I can't remember the channel name, but I saw a very clever build on Youtube on a Box van body involving bits that moved around to maximise space where you wanted it at the time.
not a very good description that. I'll see if I can try and find it (a few years back now!).
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Dinosawus said:
Great advice on the framing and furniture build, thank you.

I have looked at a lot of low profile coach built MH's and never found one I really like at a price I can justify so the low loader seems a good self build project to achieve the same result, and maybe save a few bucks or not.

My inspiration now is the Advanced RV B-Box which is most certainly over engineered but the interior volume and layout is much more suitable to a tall person like myself.

Click to expand...
Very impressive stuff there. I love the tech innovations there - and definately the way to go with no LPG installed.

I understand Advanced RV is just about the best RV maker in the US in terms of quality. I wonder how much that B-Box RV will cost? (I am going to guess at close to $200,000)
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Dinosawus said:
Great advice on the framing and furniture build, thank you.

I have looked at a lot of low profile coach built MH's and never found one I really like at a price I can justify so the low loader seems a good self build project to achieve the same result, and maybe save a few bucks or not.

My inspiration now is the Advanced RV B-Box which is most certainly over engineered but the interior volume and layout is much more suitable to a tall person like myself.

Click to expand...
When I watched this I was impressed but was 'curious' just how much it would be priced at?

Well this morning, stumbled across the answer.....

$380,000 US. Damn, that's a lot for a small van!
 
Dinosawus

Dinosawus

Forum Member
that really is an incredible amount of money and surely speculative but no doubt there will be multiple customers lining up
 
Dinosawus

Dinosawus

Forum Member
Not two stored but I am looking to get a low loader with 2.5M internal height to allow room for drop down beds and plenty of headroom underneath. The standard internal height for most of them is 2.2M which isnt quite enough for tall people + floor & roof insulation + bed frame and mattress. There are some good ideas around for DIY elevator beds using gas struts and moving the bed to the ceiling opens up the floor space for more living area without compromising too much on sleeping arrangements at the end of long day. With the beds down and slimline windows installed near the ceiling that would give the impression of a second storey.
 
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