Lights

[Poppy]

3-LED High Power 12V 6W T10 Festoon Interior Auto Roof Lamp Ceiling Light White | eBay

Are these sort of lights ok?

Also...12v cable, what amp would be best for my needs?

:cheers:

 

[garvs11]

6watt doesnt sound alot i have just converted all my lights to led, go for a higher watt for the roof there seem to be alot of different types so a little research is a must.

Cable all depends on what use its for,

lighting etc 8.75amp

Pumps,sockets etc 17.5 amp.

As a rough guide line.

Dom

 

[sparrks]

3-LED High Power 12V 6W T10 Festoon Interior Auto Roof Lamp Ceiling Light White | eBay

Are these sort of lights ok?

Also...12v cable, what amp would be best for my needs?

:cheers:

Hi Poppy,

This where it's gonna get tricky, 6w doesn't sound very bright and its not for a halogen, but is quite bright for a LED although it doesn't state how many lumens it is. This link shows some 4w LED mr16 lamps which they state are 50W equivalent. Remember it's all about saving power.
I've changed all of my car festoon lamps to LEDs at least twice as bright and use less power.

As for cables I use multi stranded loudspeaker wire, the benefits being due to the high number of strands it is very strong, can carry large amounts of current for very little volt drop, its 2 core so that you've got your return neg path. The cons it can be quite expensive and is probably a bit over the top. I use 3 sizes 2.5mm, 4.0mm and 6.00mm - 6.0mm is the same size cable as you would connect a domestic cooker with. I look first for the csa - (2.5mm, 4.0mm 6.0mm etccross sectional area) and then number of strands and then the cheapest price. Link

The link I've included is for 2.5mm cable just as an example.


I see you got your van I hope it's everything you wanted it to be and some more.

 

[Poppy]

6watt doesnt sound alot i have just converted all my lights to led, go for a higher watt for the roof there seem to be alot of different types so a little research is a must.

Cable all depends on what use its for,

lighting etc 8.75amp

Pumps,sockets etc 17.5 amp.

As a rough guide line.

Dom

Thanks Dom

 

[Bigpeetee]

How bright do you want your mH??

Remember that LED's often have a narrower beam angle of light, so a greater number of less powered lights gives an even illumination.

I've replaced my 5w halogen with 0.4w led inserts bought off Ebay (3 1/2 years later they're still going despite the warnings etc of buying "cheap" ebay leds).

Most of the habitation area we've used warm white as it's easier on the eyes. In the galley we've used cool white.

Bought two directional cool white LED spotlight from ebay and have these in living area for reading or when girls are putting on makeup before gig.

Most evenings we just have one or two LEDs on, esp if watching TV, but the two directional ones are all that's needed for reading.

With all my lights on (13 in total) the power used is still less than one 5w halogen, but being tight on power, I insist that they're turned off, every milliamp saved helps.

PS same with TV, I've switched the power to the TV so when finished I can switch off completely, even standby on many TVs can use between 0.25-0.5A (3-6watts) or even more.

The cabling for these low wattage LEDs can be relatively thin as the current is negligible therefore the volt drop minimal. Don't forget to use a small fuse. If replacing the existing halogen set up, change out the fuse in the lighting circuit to say 2A depending on the number of light fittings.

 

[Poppy]

How bright do you want your mH??

Remember that LED's often have a narrower beam angle of light, so a greater number of less powered lights gives an even illumination.

I've replaced my 5w halogen with 0.4w led inserts bought off Ebay (3 1/2 years later they're still going despite the warnings etc of buying "cheap" ebay leds).

Most of the habitation area we've used warm white as it's easier on the eyes. In the galley we've used cool white.

Bought two directional cool white LED spotlight from ebay and have these in living area for reading or when girls are putting on makeup before gig.

Most evenings we just have one or two LEDs on, esp if watching TV, but the two directional ones are all that's needed for reading.

With all my lights on (13 in total) the power used is still less than one 5w halogen, but being tight on power, I insist that they're turned off, every milliamp saved helps.

PS same with TV, I've switched the power to the TV so when finished I can switch off completely, even standby on many TVs can use between 0.25-0.5A (3-6watts) or even more.

The cabling for these low wattage LEDs can be relatively thin as the current is negligible therefore the volt drop minimal. Don't forget to use a small fuse. If replacing the existing halogen set up, change out the fuse in the lighting circuit to say 2A depending on the number of light fittings.

Thanks Pete,
I'm starting from scratch, thinking of a few spots here & there, for R&R plus, if poss' a bigger brighter one for cooking area....or even the LED strip lights (not sure if that's the right name) like 'chav' lights people put under cars/bikes etc. All of which can be turned on & off independently.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-White...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23232b07b8 This is what I mean...to put under a work unit.

 

[Poppy]

Hi Poppy,

This where it's gonna get tricky, 6w doesn't sound very bright and its not for a halogen, but is quite bright for a LED although it doesn't state how many lumens it is. This link shows some 4w LED mr16 lamps which they state are 50W equivalent. Remember it's all about saving power.
I've changed all of my car festoon lamps to LEDs at least twice as bright and use less power.

As for cables I use multi stranded loudspeaker wire, the benefits being due to the high number of strands it is very strong, can carry large amounts of current for very little volt drop, its 2 core so that you've got your return neg path. The cons it can be quite expensive and is probably a bit over the top. I use 3 sizes 2.5mm, 4.0mm and 6.00mm - 6.0mm is the same size cable as you would connect a domestic cooker with. I look first for the csa - (2.5mm, 4.0mm 6.0mm etccross sectional area) and then number of strands and then the cheapest price. Link

The link I've included is for 2.5mm cable just as an example.


I see you got your van I hope it's everything you wanted it to be and some more.

Huh, not sure if my reply sent, as I can't see it

It drove back fine, albeit a little smokey! I'm hoping that's just because it been stood still for quite a while. I checked the oil & it was rather black, so will change that sometime this week

 

[sparrks]

A couple of more points, the lamps beam varies in angles, the 4 Watt MR16 LED Bulb - Wide Beam Angle (50 Watt Replacement) I linked to are 120 degree some are a lot narrower.

The colour you finish the inside of your van will also determine the amount of lighting you need, black or a simliar dark colour will take more lighting than a white or pastel colour interior.

The colour of lamps are to personal taste. Fluorescent lamps, warm white, cool white, daylight are all different tempretures on the Kelvin scale ranging from 2.7k to 6.4k. The SAD lights are typically around the 5.5-6.4k.

I've changed all the lamps over in the house to 6.4k lamps, a very bright white light, mimicing daylight, takes a day or so to get used to it but a much better light, hate it when I go into a house lit by the yellow lights 2.7k.

Leds vary in colour as well, no surprise I go for those higher up the kelvin scale. Look out for the different types of Led. CREE which when switched off are a yellow square (as can be seen here) or the more coventional bell shape seen here.

The CREE Leds are the best giving out much more light.

Cut n Pasted


What type of light quality can I expect with LED lights? You should be satisfied with the light quality coming from any light—LED or otherwise. The best way to ensure this is to know what color light you want and how to ask for it. If you want warm light, look for lighting that is close to 2700K. If you want a more neutral light, look for something closer to 3500K and if you want a cooler light, look for 5000K or more. But that’s not all… You also need to be aware of color rendering.

The ability to make colors look true – that is to have a tomato look like a tomato – is called color rendering. The color rendering index (CRI) characterizes light sources in view of their ability to produce “natural light” and can be between 0 and 100. The closer an LED light comes to 100 on the color rendering index (CRI), the more naturally colors are rendered, and the light is perceived as more pleasant. The CRI of fluorescent tubes is often around 72. Cree LED lighting fixtures have a CRI of between 92 and 94.

 

[Bigpeetee]

I use similar to this: 12v LED SMD STRIP LIGHT 5M 300 LEDS WARM WHITE KITCHEN | eBay
on a range of lighting for my Candy Carts and Wishing Wells for subtle illumination.

They come in a strip and if hidden by a pelmet provide dazzle free lighting. There are cut marls every three LEDs and all you have to do is solder onto the track. There is a flux built in so just solder through the brown covering on the track. I've also used this to modify fluorescent fittings in MHs

The adhesive hasn't given up in over a year!!

I buy mine from China as it's cheaper and plan ahead for the delay.

5 metres is a lot of light around the edge, but remember, the whole lot on is about 5A so roughly 12w per metre length.

You can even get RGB ones so you can adjust the "mood" but unless you get the expensive ones, they cast a number of coloured shadows around and don't mix the colour well. (I use RGB stage floods and 80w of LED power is roughly equivalent to 1500w incandescent lamps, huge saving in power and doesn't get hot) BTW, Sheffield has a programme of swapping out the old style lighting for LEDs, as they are directional, most light goes down reducing wasted light and reducing light pollution.

 

[Poppy]

A couple of more points, the lamps beam varies in angles, the 4 Watt MR16 LED Bulb - Wide Beam Angle (50 Watt Replacement) I linked to are 120 degree some are a lot narrower.

The colour you finish the inside of your van will also determine the amount of lighting you need, black or a simliar dark colour will take more lighting than a white or pastel colour interior.

The colour of lamps are to personal taste. Fluorescent lamps, warm white, cool white, daylight are all different tempretures on the Kelvin scale ranging from 2.7k to 6.4k. The SAD lights are typically around the 5.5-6.4k.

I've changed all the lamps over in the house to 6.4k lamps, a very bright white light, mimicing daylight, takes a day or so to get used to it but a much better light, hate it when I go into a house lit by the yellow lights 2.7k.

Leds vary in colour as well, no surprise I go for those higher up the kelvin scale. Look out for the different types of Led. CREE which when switched off are a yellow square (as can be seen here) or the more coventional bell shape seen here.

The CREE Leds are the best giving out much more light.

Cut n Pasted


What type of light quality can I expect with LED lights? You should be satisfied with the light quality coming from any light—LED or otherwise. The best way to ensure this is to know what color light you want and how to ask for it. If you want warm light, look for lighting that is close to 2700K. If you want a more neutral light, look for something closer to 3500K and if you want a cooler light, look for 5000K or more. But that’s not all… You also need to be aware of color rendering.

The ability to make colors look true – that is to have a tomato look like a tomato – is called color rendering. The color rendering index (CRI) characterizes light sources in view of their ability to produce “natural light” and can be between 0 and 100. The closer an LED light comes to 100 on the color rendering index (CRI), the more naturally colors are rendered, and the light is perceived as more pleasant. The CRI of fluorescent tubes is often around 72. Cree LED lighting fixtures have a CRI of between 92 and 94.

Def' going for a lighter inside, prob 'sandy' colour.....gosh, I don't class myself as being stupid, but so many diff' things are involved, I had no idea there was sooooo many different kinds out there. I just want a nice bright light for the kitchen area, warmer softer lighter for the loo & living area, wiv a couple of brighter spots, for when reading!! I'm I over thinking again, I wonder!! lol

 

[Poppy]

I use similar to this: 12v LED SMD STRIP LIGHT 5M 300 LEDS WARM WHITE KITCHEN | eBay
on a range of lighting for my Candy Carts and Wishing Wells for subtle illumination.

They come in a strip and if hidden by a pelmet provide dazzle free lighting. There are cut marls every three LEDs and all you have to do is solder onto the track. There is a flux built in so just solder through the brown covering on the track. I've also used this to modify fluorescent fittings in MHs

The adhesive hasn't given up in over a year!!

I buy mine from China as it's cheaper and plan ahead for the delay.

5 metres is a lot of light around the edge, but remember, the whole lot on is about 5A so roughly 12w per metre length.

You can even get RGB ones so you can adjust the "mood" but unless you get the expensive ones, they cast a number of coloured shadows around and don't mix the colour well. (I use RGB stage floods and 80w of LED power is roughly equivalent to 1500w incandescent lamps, huge saving in power and doesn't get hot) BTW, Sheffield has a programme of swapping out the old style lighting for LEDs, as they are directional, most light goes down reducing wasted light and reducing light pollution.

Thanks Pete, will check out link now

Huh...am I right to think, that I could put an on/off switch somewhere in there?

 

[Bigpeetee]

Thanks Pete, will check out link now

Huh...am I right to think, that I could put an on/off switch somewhere in there?

That's fine, any switch will do, the smaller the better. I use the very thin mains lighting switches used on lls for my Candy Carts and Wishing , but if you look at Maplins, then Ebay once you know what you want, they do a very small toggle switch that'll fit into trunking or suitably sized box, again Maplins do a range. Personally I like a switch to be close to the equipment, but I've seen some route all cabling back to a central switch panel, the choice is yours. Simply put the switch in the positive supply.

PS most LED units are not polarity conscious but before you install check polarity both ways, it's easier before they're installed and you're looking for the fault!!

 

[sparrks]

PS most LED units are not polarity conscious but before you install check polarity both ways, it's easier before they're installed and you're looking for the fault!!

Intresting! I don't recall ever seeing one that isn't polarity conscious as by their very nature they are a diode there fore strictly polarity conscious. Any examples.

As for switches, Architrave switches are good esp if 2 way

 

[chipie]

i have just replaced the festoon bulbs that run on the starter battery with these
Light Panel 48 LED SMD Festoon Dome Bulb T10 501 Adapter BA9S UK | eBay
lots off light from them and good price

 

[Beemer]

I use similar to this: 12v LED SMD STRIP LIGHT 5M 300 LEDS WARM WHITE KITCHEN | eBay
on a range of lighting for my Candy Carts and Wishing Wells for subtle illumination.

They come in a strip and if hidden by a pelmet provide dazzle free lighting. Hs

The adhesive hasn't given up in over a year!!

I buy mine from China as it's cheaper and plan ahead for the delay.

5 metres is a lot of light around the edge, but remember, the whole lot on is about 5A so roughly 12w per metre length.

I have the same set up of the 5m 300 LEDs, behind the curtain pelmet which gives enough light in the evenings so as not to have another light on. A very sociable light setting, but not bright enough to read a book by, unless you are directly underneath the light source.
I ran a fused supply from the leisure batteries to the back of the van, so that the lights can be used when the engine is running. They are switched by an architrave switch near to the lights.
I am changing vans soon, and have left the LEDs on the old van as they were stuck on and have lasted 18 months so far. I will definitely buy another set for the new van.

 

[Bigpeetee]

Intresting! I don't recall ever seeing one that isn't polarity conscious as by their very nature they are a diode there fore strictly polarity conscious. Any examples.

As for switches, Architrave switches are good esp if 2 way

Many have a bridge rectifier built onto the circuit board. In some applications they can be fed with 12v AC, they either need an inline diode to rectify the AC or use a bridge rectifier. Obviously the voltage across the LEDs when fed by a 12v AC source is greater when bridge rectified, which is perfect for our needs as our voltage can go upto 14+ volts on charge. And anyway, the regulation of a nominal 12v transformer varies dependent on load.

Only a couple of early generation LED modules I've had didn't have a diode or bridge rectifier fitted. LEDs don't like to be reversed biased for long if the feed is low impedance.

The strips are polarity conscious.

 

[sparrks]

Many have a bridge rectifier built onto the circuit board. In some applications they can be fed with 12v AC, they either need an inline diode to rectify the AC or use a bridge rectifier. Obviously the voltage across the LEDs when fed by a 12v AC source is greater when bridge rectified, which is perfect for our needs as our voltage can go upto 14+ volts on charge. And anyway, the regulation of a nominal 12v transformer varies dependent on load.

Only a couple of early generation LED modules I've had didn't have a diode or bridge rectifier fitted. LEDs don't like to be reversed biased for long if the feed is low impedance.

The strips are polarity conscious.

I wasn't aware that they fitted rectifiers to the units, kind of overlooked that usage, so used to thinking of them for ac-dc rather than for correcting polarity on dc.