Heater fitted.

Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
So I have a water heater that needs its own tank so I want a 30 ltr uptp 40ltr but only got a 18 ktr so use what you have,
I can fit this tank on end or flat. On end takes up less space. And holes go in the top if on end so not destroyed as I want it for drinking water at the sink.
 

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Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
Water heater via bobil . there are radiators, that feed that small water tank . a little pump circulate to and from them. More pics tomorrow.
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
I've just had a look and think you'll run into problems. (please prove me wrong)

1. Restricted air flow, not helping long circuits.
2. Having to run a heating system on a hot summers day.
3. Legionnaires disease, due to not heating the water enough.

Some of these I had to address on the Murky build.
The Betty build I'm going a step further by using an idea from from Wildebus.
Fitting a 500W heating element to the Calorifier and using a relay to run it when SOC is at something like 95%

This gives me three ways of getting hot water.
1. Heated by driving.
2. Heated by the MII 12Kw water heater.
3. Mains power from hookup or Multiplus.

The water in the calorifier is held at 80 deg C. Then uses a mixer to make the temperature safe to use.
 

Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
No your not wrong but a Calorifier is only storage unit. But It mite be sealed so air tight but will cool down and be used if sat . So my problem is your problem if wilding
you will have yours full at all times mine will be empty when moving.

This thing will reach 70 to 80 degrees in 30 min @ 20 ltr may be 100 degrees as hot as a car if run long enough. but the tank will deform.
. Old school back boilers turn it on when needed.
But talking of the legenair or Legionnaires can you use the water for washing up when , its had it and been heated to over the 60 degrees. Or do you need tp flush it out ? like wasted after heating treatment ? Then add fresh and restart.

Thats not the right tank I'm looking for a 30 to 40 ltr water heater cylinder with a 12v 500 or 800 watt element.
Same as yours for solar summer's. . this is a winter thing . So only 2 ways of heating.
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Yes I can see that if you only use it in the winter it will address your needs.
We like to go out all year round. The calorifier, though expensive make life very easy if you size it carefully. It will keep the water hot for well in excess of 12 hours. Built into the engines coolant system gives you hot water after a drive. And you can heat them electrically. I've gone another step and can also heat it with the water eberspacher, having the option not to heat the engine. The downside is the water circuit becomes hot in the summer, hence wanting to use surplus solar capacity to heat the water.
 

Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
I think yours are the same as humble road youtub heated from engine his looks good but his van ssell for $100,000 I'm try to keep under £10.000 install. I'm spending neary 50% on electricity. And over 1/3 spent already on openers windows and insulation. Not a lot left .
Its easy doing upgrades. 1 item at a time so must fit the most expensive things first. So the van has good foundations.
Cant seem to save to spend 1500 + on heat. Mines still 400 once I get cylinder. complicated and compact.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Yes I can see that if you only use it in the winter it will address your needs.
We like to go out all year round. The calorifier, though expensive make life very easy if you size it carefully. It will keep the water hot for well in excess of 12 hours. Built into the engines coolant system gives you hot water after a drive. And you can heat them electrically. I've gone another step and can also heat it with the water eberspacher, having the option not to heat the engine. The downside is the water circuit becomes hot in the summer, hence wanting to use surplus solar capacity to heat the water.
It depends on peoples water requirements to how much they need, but I spent around £150 on an electric water heater and expansion vessel. Heats up (via a 2kW AC element) the 10L tank in around 14 minutes to a degree where you have to mix with cold to use it (so good for legionalla protection) and the water stays hot for many hours until it gets a topup of around 5 mins or less to bring it back up.
It is quite true I already had the batteries and inverter in place to drive it and that would have been an extra cost otherwise, but I don't think you could go much cheaper for a proper plumbed in hot water setup. The ability to dump the excess solar into something useful really is handy as well.
 

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