This would be how I think your pair of batteries SHOULD be connected, followed by how it really should NOT be connected and finally how I *think* your setup is, and how to make the best of the situation until you can redo it - basically - properly.
If for anyone this whole speil is a bit 'TL: DR', just look at the pictures
1. How it should be
You have your two batteries connected to each other, +ve to +ve, -ve to -ve.
One Battery -ve is connected to Chassis ground
The other Battery +ve is connected to the +ve for any and all loads and charge systems (I show just two in the diagram above)
In this setup, both batteries are equally involved in the path for load and charge activity. It is always best to match the batteries technology and capacities as much as possible, but mismatched batteries can (to a degree) still be connected like this.
The way NOT to do it
Two batteries, not connected to each other in any way. This is not a battery bank, it is just two batteries in the same place.
The BMV will only know about stuff happening to that single battery. Having an expensive device like a BMV-712 connected to a setup like this is frankly, IMO, a waste of money.
A common but not ideal scenario
The Batteries -ve's have each been connected to their own load chassis-ground points. They have been brought together on the +ve's and then the various loads and charges distributed from this.
It is possible to use the BMV like this to get an idea of the Battery "bank" (as such) but how accurate that is will depend on how well the batteries are matched up in their power delivery and charge acceptance.
To use the BMV in this way, you would set its battery capacity to just the capacity of the battery it is connected to - so on a "bank" of two batteries as above, where LB-1 is 100Ah and LB-2 is 160Ah, and the BMV is on LB-2 as shown, set the capacity to 160Ah.
This will give you an approximation of the State of Charge.
The current displayed will be incorrect however and you will have to compensate for that outside the BMV. to get the true current, take the current shown, divide by the Ah of the battery it is connected to (so 160Ah in this example) and multiply by the total AH of the bank (100Ah + 160Ah in this example). So if the current shown was 10A, the actual current will be 16.25A (10A / 160Ah * 260Ah)
This setups reliability in terms of BMV data accuracy is very dependant on how closely the batteries are matched and how the cabling is done.
You can put in a control load or charge and check with a current clamp meter how the current is actually divided between the batteries to get a more accurate real-life number and tweak the Ah setting in the BMV accordingly, but this setup would really only be a half-way house until you recable the batteries correctly in order to not only get better information from the BMV but better performance from the Batteries as a whole.