Another Victron Orion thread - sorry

wildebus

Forum Member
I have 12V in, 24V out.

I did wonder if I could directly connect my 24V D+ signal to DISABLE the charger...

Using a 24V relay as it stands.
Interesting Question :)
Looking at Page 7 of the manual - https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-smart#manuals - Victron seem to suggest the remote connection is controlled on the Input side rather than the Output side.
a) A switch wired between the L-H pins (On-level impedance between L-H pins: < 500kΩ)
b) A switch wired between (input/starter) battery plus and H-pin (on level: > 3V)
c) A switch between the L-pin and (input/starter) ground (on level: < 5V) d) Isolated remote on-off cable e.g. controlled by a (small) BMS

However it also quotes "BMS Voltage tolerance L & H pin: +/- 70VDC", which suggests any likely DC voltage above 3V on the H-pin is permissable?
 

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
What a load of rubbish I am! Orion set the alarm off this morning. Problem solved, I disabled the charger. Still haven't figured out where the off switch is yet? ;)
 

PeteS

Forum Member
I have 12V in, 24V out.

I did wonder if I could directly connect my 24V D+ signal to DISABLE the charger...

Using a 24V relay as it stands.
Yes just connect the relay contacts between H & L inputs and control the relay from 24V. That way voltage is irrelevant.
I assume when you say Disable the charger you mean enable it with the D+ signal when engine is running?
 

Sprinter 1 cup

Forum Member
Wow I've just got one delivered and it's non isolated ! What does this mean ? A send it back b put switch to turn off via a relay. L H remote.


20211213_140152.jpg
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Wow I've just got one delivered and it's non isolated ! What does this mean ? A send it back b put switch to turn off via a relay. L H remote.


View attachment 4869
Did they get that one back in stock then? If you paid for the Isolated and got the Non-Isolated, keep it but ask for the cost difference back.

It will work fine and is more appropriate anyway. Instead of having to send two -ve cables to chassis/battery, you just need one.

You will find the green plug with the black jumper wire loose in the box :)
 

st3v3

Forum Member
Yes just connect the relay contacts between H & L inputs and control the relay from 24V. That way voltage is irrelevant.

That's what I've done, just thought that it's probably possible to do it without the relay because the H/L seem quite clever.
I assume when you say Disable the charger you mean enable it with the D+ signal when engine is running?

No, the orion is being used to charge the engine 24V from the hab 12V when the engine isn't running.
 

PeteS

Forum Member
That's what I've done, just thought that it's probably possible to do it without the relay because the H/L seem quite clever.


No, the orion is being used to charge the engine 24V from the hab 12V when the engine isn't running.
Before mine went faulty I would have thought you could have done it without a relay but now I'm not so sure and anyway I would use a relay to ground the L input as I would not be confident that the D+ signal didnt just float when off.
I'm off to see Onboard Energy on Friday and I will ask the question about the input voltage tolerances on the Remote input in case they have had experience of fitting to a 24V system. I know Dave quoted the manual but he did end it with a question mark!
 

wildebus

Forum Member
Some of Victrons kit have a remarkably wide voltage tolerance. The Cerbo GX and Venus GX accepts a power input of, IIRC, anywhere between 5V and 70V DC! ( Makes sense as it will be suitable for any 12V, 24V or 48V system).
The lynx distributor on the other hand needs 5V max despite the minimum voltage of a system using it being 12V. With that bit of design inconsistency, best to double-check what is permitted!
 

PeteS

Forum Member
Before mine went faulty I would have thought you could have done it without a relay but now I'm not so sure and anyway I would use a relay to ground the L input as I would not be confident that the D+ signal didnt just float when off.
I'm off to see Onboard Energy on Friday and I will ask the question about the input voltage tolerances on the Remote input in case they have had experience of fitting to a 24V system. I know Dave quoted the manual but he did end it with a question mark!
I asked the question about input voltage tolerances but got no definitive answer other than what is in the manual +/-70v. I did confirm that what ever is the first voltage listed is the voltage of the controlling electronics so in a 12-24-30A 12v is the internal voltage, 24-12-30A 24v would be the internal voltage. Its basically always the feeding battery in most cases the starter battery.
In the case where you want to charge the starter battery from the leisure battery then the feed is the leisure battery so if your trying to control the charge to a starter battery with a 24v D+ signal then use that via a relay to switch off 12v to the H input.

My faulty unit was replaced no problem.
 

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