1000w inverter

[sparrks]

One thing I would avoid is a compressor fridge - we had one & it absolutely sucked the life out of the batteries. Could never get enough air flow around it, even though we put an outside grid at the back of it. We may have been unlucky, but it was an very expensive white lump, especially when we travelled in Europe & it was warmer than here. We did our best to avoid using the invertor as well for the same reason.

Sounds like you were unlucky, mine draws about 4A whilst the compressor is running which runs for about 15-20mins an hour. That works out between 1-1.3Ah or up to 32Ah per day. I chose a compressor fridge as I do not have a fixed gas supply and use a small but very efficient camping stove. With a couple of 100w solar panels the draw on the batteries would be small, especially travelling around Europe as you were.
As for air flow never been a problem, certainly no grids to the outside!

 

[Poppy]

One thing I would avoid is a compressor fridge - we had one & it absolutely sucked the life out of the batteries. Could never get enough air flow around it, even though we put an outside grid at the back of it. We may have been unlucky, but it was an very expensive white lump, especially when we travelled in Europe & it was warmer than here. We did our best to avoid using the invertor as well for the same reason.

Will make a note of that, thank you

 

[ivecotrucker]

Hello again Poppy.
You ask if "it's worth getting sealed batteries ?". You'll find a lot of info on this site from previous posts re batteries & each to there own opinion.

To my mind, unless you plan on turning your vehicle over in a ditch there is no advantage to sealed batteries & actually one major disadvantage especially if you intend extensive wilding. How much you can get out of a battery depends upon how much charge you can get INTO it &, put very simply, you can squeeze more charge into an unsealed (i.e. not a 'maintenance free' type) battery but this will require periodic topping up of the battery with de-ionised water, hence the importance of removable screw tops.

The battery selling trade is unfortunately full of many misleading claims; so many distributors/manufacturers simply stick a picture of a campervan, boat or whatever on the side of, basically, a bog standard starter battery knowing that they can then charge +10%, +20% whatever. A few manufacturers do make batteries a bit more suited to leisure use but unless you can obtain real information re plate thickness, weight per inch of plate, grid design etc. etc. (most or all of which is never published) then their claims are unproveable. There is a valid argument for simply buying the very cheapest starter batteries & looking after them but be prepared to scrap them after 3 - 5 years use.

 

[Poppy]

Hello again Poppy.
You ask if "it's worth getting sealed batteries ?". You'll find a lot of info on this site from previous posts re batteries & each to there own opinion.

To my mind, unless you plan on turning your vehicle over in a ditch there is no advantage to sealed batteries & actually one major disadvantage especially if you intend extensive wilding. How much you can get out of a battery depends upon how much charge you can get INTO it &, put very simply, you can squeeze more charge into an unsealed (i.e. not a 'maintenance free' type) battery but this will require periodic topping up of the battery with de-ionised water, hence the importance of removable screw tops.

The battery selling trade is unfortunately full of many misleading claims; so many distributors/manufacturers simply stick a picture of a campervan, boat or whatever on the side of, basically, a bog standard starter battery knowing that they can then charge +10%, +20% whatever. A few manufacturers do make batteries a bit more suited to leisure use but unless you can obtain real information re plate thickness, weight per inch of plate, grid design etc. etc. (most or all of which is never published) then their claims are unproveable. There is a valid argument for simply buying the very cheapest starter batteries & looking after them but be prepared to scrap them after 3 - 5 years use.

Thank you, it is a bit of a minefield...different people swear by different ones, all giving valid points on both sides of the argument. I was just concerned about the correct ventilation. Don't want any stuff getting into the van & attacking us whilst we sleep!!

 

[sparrks]

An open wet cell battery is normally very easy to vent. At both ends of the battery there is a little opening, one end will/should come with a little plug in it, the other end you plug in a small tube adapter and connect a piece of tube (simliar to the type used in aquariums) find/drill a suitable hole in floor for tube to pass through. Finished.


PS all you didn't wan't to know about batteries. batteries faqs frequently asked questions :raofl:


This one makes for easier reading. http://www.batteryequaliser.com/products/product_battery_maintenance.htm

 

[GRWXJR]

'Leisure' batteries

There is a valid argument for simply buying the very cheapest starter batteries & looking after them but be prepared to scrap them after 3 - 5 years use.

I've been told by battery engineers that we deal with in work, that a deep-cycle (aka 'leisure' or 'rechargeable') battery is designed differently as their purpose and use is very different to a starter battery and that starter batteries were not suitable for the use Poppy intends.

A starter battery is designed to give a big burst of energy for a brief period (cranking Amps) to start an engine, whereupon it is immediately recovered by the engine charge alternator. A starter battery should ideally never be discharged, and can fail to recover fully or at all from a deep discharge.

The Leisure batteries are designed to be 'cycled' i.e. charged up time and again. A leisure battery isn't designed to deliver the big surge a starter battery is, but the trade-off is that it can be cycled and survive better and for longer used like this.

Connecting 2 x 100AH batteries in parallel (so the voltage stays at 12v) doubles the Amp Hour (AH) capacity to nominally 200AH. Please note that (as I mention in your query about 'chargers' though, that as you are in effect creating a larger battery by joining 2 together, you ideally need a more powerful charger to replenish them too.

I've just got a Convoy too as my 1st van, so I'm learning about a lot of things too (mine only has a 80AH single battery in it though, and that isn't in the best of health)! Somebody already converted mine though, so I have a lot less to do than you do. I wish you luck!

 

[sparrks]

I've been told by battery engineers that we deal with in work, that a deep-cycle (aka 'leisure' or 'rechargeable') battery is designed differently as their purpose and use is very different to a starter battery and that starter batteries were not suitable for the use Poppy intends.

A starter battery is designed to give a big burst of energy for a brief period (cranking Amps) to start an engine, whereupon it is immediately recovered by the engine charge alternator. A starter battery should ideally never be discharged, and can fail to recover fully or at all from a deep discharge.

The Leisure batteries are designed to be 'cycled' i.e. charged up time and again. A leisure battery isn't designed to deliver the big surge a starter battery is, but the trade-off is that it can be cycled and survive better and for longer used like this.

Connecting 2 x 100AH batteries in parallel (so the voltage stays at 12v) doubles the Amp Hour (AH) capacity to nominally 200AH. Please note that (as I mention in your query about 'chargers' though, that as you are in effect creating a larger battery by joining 2 together, you ideally need a more powerful charger to replenish them too.

I've just got a Convoy too as my 1st van, so I'm learning about a lot of things too (mine only has a 80AH single battery in it though, and that isn't in the best of health)! Somebody already converted mine though, so I have a lot less to do than you do. I wish you luck!

You're correct about deep cycle batteries - they are the type that are used in golf carts etc where you can run them flat. It would appear that a lot of "leisure" batteries for motorhomes and caravans are just rebadged or lightly modified starter batteries. Some would appear to be a bit of a hybrid. I use so called leisure batteries and they seem to last about 3 years, not as long as my starter battery in the van, I just figure the cost in as an overhead.( about a £1 a week) It all depends on usage and charging cycles, which is why I think Solar panels are a good idea to try to limit the amount of discharge and therefore less cycling of the battery.

 

[Poppy]

An open wet cell battery is normally very easy to vent. At both ends of the battery there is a little opening, one end will/should come with a little plug in it, the other end you plug in a small tube adapter and connect a piece of tube (simliar to the type used in aquariums) find/drill a suitable hole in floor for tube to pass through. Finished.


PS all you didn't wan't to know about batteries. batteries faqs frequently asked questions :raofl:


This one makes for easier reading. Battery Maintenance Facts

And another hole :sad: lol

 

[n brown]

holes;
2 roof lights
4 windows
ehu
water filler
2 fridge vents
2 propex holes
water heater drain
4-5 gas drop out
kitchen extractor
solar panel wire
camera wire
tv ariel
battery vent
sink drain
shower drain
water tank drain
lpg inlet
cooker vent
etc
!!!!!!!!

 

[Poppy]

I've been told by battery engineers that we deal with in work, that a deep-cycle (aka 'leisure' or 'rechargeable') battery is designed differently as their purpose and use is very different to a starter battery and that starter batteries were not suitable for the use Poppy intends.

A starter battery is designed to give a big burst of energy for a brief period (cranking Amps) to start an engine, whereupon it is immediately recovered by the engine charge alternator. A starter battery should ideally never be discharged, and can fail to recover fully or at all from a deep discharge.

The Leisure batteries are designed to be 'cycled' i.e. charged up time and again. A leisure battery isn't designed to deliver the big surge a starter battery is, but the trade-off is that it can be cycled and survive better and for longer used like this.

Connecting 2 x 100AH batteries in parallel (so the voltage stays at 12v) doubles the Amp Hour (AH) capacity to nominally 200AH. Please note that (as I mention in your query about 'chargers' though, that as you are in effect creating a larger battery by joining 2 together, you ideally need a more powerful charger to replenish them too.

I've just got a Convoy too as my 1st van, so I'm learning about a lot of things too (mine only has a 80AH single battery in it though, and that isn't in the best of health)! Somebody already converted mine though, so I have a lot less to do than you do. I wish you luck!

Cool....would love to see some pic's So, much stuff to think about, I get a headache (literally) a bit of a brain overload sometimes, gotta remember to take one step at a time.

 

[Poppy]

holes;
2 roof lights
4 windows
ehu
water filler
2 fridge vents
2 propex holes
water heater drain
4-5 gas drop out
kitchen extractor
solar panel wire
camera wire
tv ariel
battery vent
sink drain
shower drain
water tank drain
lpg inlet
cooker vent
etc
!!!!!!!!

:scared::scared::scared: OMG I'll have no van left :scared:

 

[sparrks]

:scared::scared::scared: OMG I'll have no van left :scared:

:raofl:

 

[GRWXJR]

Pics of 'Sully' the fugly LDV Convoy

Poppy

Cool....would love to see some pic's So, much stuff to think about, I get a headache (literally) a bit of a brain overload sometimes, gotta remember to take one step at a time.

Ok, when I get a mo I'll have to take some pics (not done a single one yet) and then see if I can work out how to actually post them so they can be seen!

Not sure if my van is something to use as a template mind, but it seems ok to me (but what do I know!). One of the reasons I went for this one (apart from it was in my meagre budget) is that part of the rear (at the back) has been segregated from the living area as it was originally conceived as a Motocross van (so a dirtbike had to be able to fit in the back).
As I want to carry a Mtn Bike and use the van as a base to go get muddy and knackered from sometimes, then the space to cart a mountain bike or 2 inside (security when in the pub afterwards!) plus sectioned storage to keep mucky clothes and all the stuff like BBq's, chairs and any other crud that you don't wanna be falling over in your living space seemed like a good idea.

I've just converted / swapped out the seats to swivelling captains chairs (which makes the front much nicer and more useable as a living space) so the van is getting there slowly. Next task is to try and improve the noise levels in the cabin when moving. The Convoy does make a bit of a din - with the bare steel floor (nowt on the cab floor at mo) I used works' decibel meter and recorded about 80dBA at 55 - 60mph. Sound-deadening the cab floor with Flashing Tape is the next job for me, and some (vague) plan to stuff some foam or something behind the dash as well before sticking the original foam-backed rubber mat back on top of the taped floor, and maybe something else on top of that. then I'll try the nosie meter again and see what measurable (as opposed to just percieved ) racket reduction I've been able to get.

I did post on here somewhere a basic outline of the stuff that's in the van - quite a lot like most other home converted vans I expect though :rolleyes2: