boneheaddread
Hi thanks for the likes and comments
Hi thanks for the likes and comments
boneheaddread
Back to the build , one thing that you have to do in a small space is make every thing work and have a purpose and because the engine is behind the driving seats there was a useless fiberglass engine cover over it , I had tatted a galvanised water tank from a narrow boat a while back so after a bit of thought I cut out one side turned it upside down and it has now become a engine cover/ table I have a fold up seat from a old school desk that I am going to fit to the tank somehow to use as a step up to the bed and also double up as another seat
Beemer
Wow... if you maintain the detail you have fitted already, then your conversion will look the "dogs" 
I hope one day to do a conversion myself, but perhaps on not such a large vehicle.
I hope one day to do a conversion myself, but perhaps on not such a large vehicle.
boneheaddread
And this is what I ended up doing with the school seat
boneheaddread
I have noticed that if I dont drive the truck for a week or two , the front drivers shoes do tend to stick on for a few miles
boneheaddread
The next job was to rip all the walls of and check over the floor , when I took the ply from the walls I discovered the last owner had already cut out all the wood uprights from the chassis to roof and welded in steel box section , so all I had to do was batten it out to take screws paint the whole lot with red oxide and it was ready for insulation followed by 8x4 sheets of 6mm ply as I have not made up my mind what finish I will do on the walls yet ,I will wait and see what I find
trevskoda
Forum Member
Right so the jobs in order were going to be
1 underneath , chassis, brakes , tyres, wiring, and running gear as there is no point spending ages converting a truck on a crap running gear
2 inside
3 outside
so my partner and myself spent around 20-30 hours wire brushing the chassis back of all oil grease rust ect , followed by 2 coats of red oxide and then 2 coats of post office red synthetic enamel paint , newish tyres where needed , wheel cylinders, brake shoes and a complete back end rewire ( no dodgy bad earths ) to complete underneath
a few before and after photos
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Unless its shoot blasted and 2 packed epoxy zink rich primed it will rust very soon though you are going the right way with things & love the pickys,good luck.
Ps 2 pack acid etch for alloy wall sides not red oxide.
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boneheaddread
trevskoda
Forum Member
Well done then,do keep it well looked after the old girl will give you many happy hrs return & more fun than a of the shelf wobbly box.
boneheaddread
Thanks for the tips , I will etch prime the outside before I paint with a top coat , but I have always hand cleaned and painted chassis in the past , I am a bit old skool in my work , like to do things by hand and the old ways
mandrake
funny you should mention that ,i found my old cf front brakes could tend to drag a little first thing , they were also dogs to keep in balance aswell ,but thats drum brakes for you .. i did notice that yours has the later instrument pod and steering wheel , i dont suppose your going to change them for the earlier ones,i did like the look of them ,thats of course if you can still get them ,could be rare . wasent the bedford tk very much on the stamp well cab styling that is of the international trucks in america , mind you the cf was styled very much on the chevvy vans .
trevskoda
Forum Member
Good lad but i ran my own biz spraycraft LTD ,its a zillion times faster and a much deeper clean when shotblasting using j/blast which gives a white & rough surface which in turn gives the primer a mechanical grip ,epoxy 2 pack has a self healing property for steel.
Two pack acid etch put on very thin is whats used in industry.
Industral paints are much cheaper and better than the car crap by far.
Here is some of the jobs i have done.
izwozral
Bloomin' 'eck Trev you're posh aren't you, fireplace OUTSIDE the house, a ruddy great boat in yer garage and your very own Bushmills vat.
phillybarbour
TK looking lovely, some great work going on there.
trevskoda
Forum Member
Very good:lol-053: that big tank was for holding oil at killroot power station just outside carrikfergus,the bad bit is im scared s-itless of hights so i stayed on ground feeding the blasting pot whilst my partner was at the hose end,took about 3 days to blast in stages and we airless sprayed as we went using a graco 60/1 unit putting on zink rich epoxy followed by 3 coats of cloranated rubber.
boneheaddread
The next job on the list was the floor it was so uneven sloping from front to back and side to side with a 3" drop near the cab ,I decided to screw down cross beams every 2ft starting with a 4x2 at the worst end and leveling the floor out as I went , I put insulation in the gaps except for a 4ft square at the front end where the gap was so big I plan to put pull out tool slides underneath , then I planned down a load of scaffold planks that I had been tatting over the last few months and fixed them down , when I have worked out were the wall will go in to separate the living end from the kitchen I will oil / wax or varnish them
boneheaddread
Then on to the roof the roof what I did to the floor of the truck had to be done again first , get it level so I screwed 2x2 s to the across beams as they were all different sizes , once I had a level it was a case of filling the gap with insulation then I put up the tongue and groove to finish it off , the hardest part was getting some sort of level around the 3 skylights that I had put in as the roof sloped from left to right and front to back ? headwork
boneheaddread
Hi mine was made with that dash and steering wheel , I think 1972 was the change over year on the cab design , but I have had bedford j types back in the day with the early dash