Skylights and electrics help - new self build

Grimola

Hi Everyone

I am completely new to the motorhome world so you may see me on here a lot over the next few months while I try a self build project! (I have very basic DIY skills)

I pick up my Peugeot Boxer minibus this weekend and want to start converting ASAP and work from the top down so will be doing skylights and Solar Panels as 1st jobs? I am unsure if there is any point installing roof lights as the bus has 2 huge opening windows in the rear

I want to reduce condensation as much as possible with out having to spend a fortune so my questions are:

1) Will roof lights make much difference to the amount of condensation in winter and coolness in summer? or will opening the windows be enough.

2) Are heki midi the best to go for- if so which variant, with electric fan, quad, standard ?

3) Will 1 roof light be ok or will I need 2?

4) Can anyone recommend fitters (or DIY'ers) in the Bristol are (10-15 MILE RADIUS) that can do this for a reasonable fee if I supply the parts? I have been quoted £350 for 1 sky light - so that's about £250 in labour which is a bit of a rip off!

5) Also need someone to do electrics - but may buy a pre made hook up/split charge harness so may DIY?

I hope to use fiends to help with the rest!

Thank you
 

delicagirl

Welcome to the forum and as one of the south west "fiends"... I have sent you a private message

the more roof lights you put in the more heat loss you will get - but you can make insulation board inserts to put into the light at night time.

Be very cautious re doing split chargers yourself without proper advice.....

the firm I recommended will do it while you wait
 

derathe

The up side with a roof light is it will allow hot air out and can be left slightly open during the day..(obviously beware the thief!) we find them invaluable in spain, etc
 

delicagirl

I love the extra lightness an additional roof light has given me and the airflow in the summer - but they do suck out heat in the winter....
 

trevskoda

Forum Member
Solar panel wiring simple,use one of these from ebay £25 which charges starter and service batt,
100w panel per 100 amps of battery though i would if space allows fit two.
As for split relay buy the bigest one with a good high amperage as possable because once you start up it will be asked to shunt in excess of 50/70 amps for a short time until the batt pics up,again buy from ebay.
If you are not sure about electrics get a pro to do it,here is my solar setup,and fit some volt meters in cockpit for start and service bat so you can see what state of charge batts are at.
Fit a mains float charger to with a splitter about 10 amps will do.
If you getting a extra fuse box there are ones on ebay with a red led which lets you know if a fuse has blown,remember to go led bulbs inside and for van running lights.
good luck and take time to plan.
 

hextal

In terms of heat loss, your biggest issue will be that of the existing minibus windows, which i'm assuming will be single glazed and occupying much of the wall area. As such, i'd see a rooflight as much less of an issue. In terms of the existing windows what is your plan?

In terms of condensation, I know it's probably an obvious statement but it's down to moisture in the air and temperature differentials, the more you can minimise these the less the issue will be. Quick revision class (just in case it's useful), air at a given temperature can hold a certain amount of moisture, the higher the temperature the more moisture it can contain. The issue occurs when the air hits a surface at a lower temperature, in that as the local air temperature drops so does it's ability to hold moisture, until it reaches a point where the moisture is forced to condense.

Breathing chucks out something like half a litre per person in a day (very ish) throw in cooking and showers etc and it soon tots up, put that in a confined space and it's more of an issue, hence the need for good ventilation. You really need a setup that will allow a steady through flow of air, to keep the moisture level to a minimum.

Soo, i'd say yes to rooflights as they will help the ventilation and limiting moisture (not essential but certainly helpful). I wouldn't install it/them until you have your layout finalised though as you don't want to cause yourself problems. Quantity is very much down to you, as is the type. Some things have right/wrong answers, others are down to personal choice, remember that you are building it for yourself, so you'll have the best idea of what you want, although we can help coax those answers out of you.

Again, off topic but batteries, gas, water tank, spare wheel location all worth considering now (if you've not already) as they are heavy and take up a fair amount of space, so may affect layout decisions.

Bathroom or no bathroom is another big choice.

Remember the wheel arches are bigger than you think, its not an an uncommon issue that people initially forget this and locate objects that conflict with them on paper.

Treat the bodywork before you start doing anything, and treat any holes you make too.

Figure out where you want to run wiring, and gas/water pipes too, it's just easier if you know in advance so can put ducting in place.

Insulation - 2 options get it professionally sprayed with 2 part (closed cell) expanding foam or use boards such as kingspan/cellotex etc. Insulation foil is next to useless for lining walls as it only works for radiant heat transfer as opposed to conduction heat transfer.

At the end of the day none of it is rocket science, its just that certain elements have the ability to do some damage if you get them wrong (gas & elec).

In terms of the wiring, the harnesses are very simple, i'd just get the cables bought by the meter and stick on whichever connectors you need with a crimp tool (though anything over 10mm2 its easier to get the supplier to do it, most will do it for free if you just give them the info).


Apologies for the blathery response.
 

st3v3

Forum Member
I can do electrical work for beer money, as long as you don't want it done yesterday! Also can have a quick look with you and point you in the right direction for the stuff you will do yourself. I'm North Bristol.

On the skylight, we use ours a lot - not only as a vent. We can open it's blind in the morning for light and still walk about the van without anyone seeing what we are up to or not wearing lol.
 

trevskoda

Forum Member
In total agreement david one reason i picked a lib bus over a windowed mini bus.
Here is one i saw after a chap bought it to turn into a mobile sweety shop ,price was low and only 30000 miles on clock.
 

AuldTam

:mad2: £250 for fitting a roof light! You should report them to Watchdog, it took me less than two hours to install mine.

IMO the best thing you did to date was joining this forum, members are always willing to help each other out.
 
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Deleted member 2473

roof

Is it a corrugated roof? are you insulating the roof rear only or cab as well?
New roof lineing?
 

Grimola

Thanks for all your replies

Thank you everyone for all your replies - as I am new I hope this will be added to my thread and will be seen by everyone There is a lot of good information and need some time to take it all in plus I am away this weekend so will have a proper read when I return.

Re buying a minibus - I was aware issue of condensation and heat loss on the windows but I wanted a minibus primarily because I like to see whats around me when driving or parked up (for me I found the driving experience more car like if you know what I mean). I am going to put limo black film over the rear quarter lights and board over these as this is going to be the sleeping area.

I have a plan for the other windows too as I hope to build wooden frames round the windows and line around the frames then make insulated inserts that can push in/pull out. Being a Peugeot boxer it is a little wider than most vans so I can afford to loose an inch or 2 when battening the sides and insulating/lining.

Of course this is in my head and not actually put into practice yet!!!.
 

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