Router bit.

groyne

What's the best size router bit to use with a template when cutting out cupboard doors, so that there's enough room for knock in edging, but doesn't leave a gap.

Like these.

Ontario-Maple.jpg


For illustration purposes only, it's not my van. :lol-053:
 

Steve121

I think you'll find 6mm (or ¼") are suitable, but do practice on some scrap pieces first. Presumably you'll be using templates and a guide bush.
Incidentally, the groove width for knock-in edging varies somewhat between types/makes, so be prepared to spend more money! Cromwell sell slotting cutters, eg. 1.6mm
 

Deleted member 951

Steve121 said:
I think you'll find 6mm (or ¼") are suitable, but do practice on some scrap pieces first. Presumably you'll be using templates and a guide bush.
Incidentally, the groove width for knock-in edging varies somewhat between types/makes, so be prepared to spend more money! Cromwell sell slotting cutters, eg. 1.6mm
Click to expand...

Where does the template come in Steve.

I just set the depth and ran the router around the edge, but I would be interested to find a safer way if there is one.
 

st3v3

Forum Member
Rob, I'm assuming you mean the groove to put the T edge in place?

It's possible to use a router to cut out the hole into the cupboard in a way that the piece you cut out can be used as the door, if that makes sense. I think that's what's being talked about, not that the picture shows that lol.
 

Deleted member 951

st3v3 said:
Rob, I'm assuming you mean the groove to put the T edge in place?

It's possible to use a router to cut out the hole into the cupboard in a way that the piece you cut out can be used as the door, if that makes sense. I think that's what's being talked about, not that the picture shows that lol.
Click to expand...

Ah got it. Thanks Steve.
 

groyne

That's the one I've been watching, but he doesn't say what size Bit he's using. I'm assuming he's using a Template bit.
 

Deleted member 951

groyne said:
That's the one I've been watching, but he doesn't say what size Bit he's using. I'm assuming he's using a Template bit.
Click to expand...

I expect Brownie will be along soon enough, he will probably know.
 
n brown

n brown

Forum Member
i've never used this knock on trim, just the 't' trim, but i seem to remember, like Steve 121 says, a 6mm bit is what's used. i would use a straight bit and a template guide, which for those who don't know, is a metal ring that's screwed to the router base. i don't know if you can get a 6mm template profiling cutter.
using a template guide isn't too hard, you usually get one with the router, just measure from the edge of the cutter to the edge of the guide and add or subtract this measurement to the template
 

Steve121

Robmac said:
Where does the template come in Steve.

I just set the depth and ran the router around the edge, but I would be interested to find a safer way if there is one.
Click to expand...

By using a template, secured using double-sided tape, you cut the door from the same piece of material, leaving zero waste. By using a 6mm or ¼" cutter the resulting gap will be filled by the special door edge 'T' trim, resulting in a very neat job.
 
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Deleted member 951

n brown said:
couple of pics of the guide View attachment 54127View attachment 54128as you can see the guide is, coincidentally 6mm away from the cutter, so to make a door template i would cut out the shape of the door 6mm bigger all round from 9mm MDF. i would use a reverse cutting jig saw blade Bosch T101BR Jigsaw Blades 2608630014 to get as accurate a cut as poss. don't stress too much if there's a bit of waver on the line, as there's leeway on the trim
Click to expand...

I'll get some of those blades tomorrow Nigel, they have them at Screwfix, there a tiny bit more expensive, but it's only about a mile away. :)
 
n brown

n brown

Forum Member
for those who haven't used them, reverse cutting blades cut on the down stroke, so all the dust and splintering is on the back of the wood, this means your view of the pencil line you're cutting along doesn't get obscured by debris,allowing for a much more accurate cut. but you have to bear down on the jigsaw a bit as it may kick up !
 

Byronic

Just a tip, a light coat of PVA (Wickes water resistant el cheapo is good enough) adhesive on the knock-in profile helps keep things together, but not so that it's difficult to separate them in the future.. The Reimo online catalogue is worth a look at for ideas and parts if you've not already done so.
 
n brown

n brown

Forum Member
my experience with cheap router blades is they get blunt quicker, but at that price, who cares ! when i first got a router cutters were about £30 or more, when £100 was a good week's dosh , even today, sharpening one is at least £3.
 

Deleted member 951

n brown said:
my experience with cheap router blades is they get blunt quicker, but at that price, who cares ! when i first got a router cutters were about £30 or more, when £100 was a good week's dosh , even today, sharpening one is at least £3.
Click to expand...

I reckon I'll get a couple and have a play with them and see how they go.

As you say, at that price, who cares!
 
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