gas supply / pipe route

jacks906

#1
hi all

after some advice regarding installing a gas hob

basically im after the best way to pipe the gas from the bottle to the hob.. Ive always kept the gas bottle and the cooker in the vans no more than 1 meter apart but im wondering weather to put the bottle under the bed at the back of the van and piping it to the front..
its only a route of Max 3mtr (vwT4 swb)... but im thinking using the flexi stuff isn't the best way to go about it, what other good safe ways are there?? an by using it id be keeping the amount of joints in the system down... also is it best to run the pipe work under the van or internal (ill be looking at taking it to some cold climets tho so itll have to stand up with that)

i hope someone understands what im asking,

cheers for any help

dave
 
#2
Haven't a clue, Jacks, but in the tradition of this wonderful site there will no doubt be someone clever along soon to help you out. :)

I'll follow the thread with interest - you always learn some very useful/interesting stuff in here. ;)

Marie
 

Dezi

Full Member
#3
One of the reasons flexible ( Gas approved ) piping is used in motorhomes is because as you drive there is some movement in the van & the rubber / nylon tube copes well with it.

Copper piping with jointing is fine, but get it fitted by an approved vehicle gas fitter.

Dezi :pc:
 
#4
hi all

after some advice regarding installing a gas hob

basically im after the best way to pipe the gas from the bottle to the hob.. Ive always kept the gas bottle and the cooker in the vans no more than 1 meter apart but im wondering weather to put the bottle under the bed at the back of the van and piping it to the front..
its only a route of Max 3mtr (vwT4 swb)... but im thinking using the flexi stuff isn't the best way to go about it, what other good safe ways are there?? an by using it id be keeping the amount of joints in the system down... also is it best to run the pipe work under the van or internal (ill be looking at taking it to some cold climets tho so itll have to stand up with that)

i hope someone understands what im asking,

cheers for any help

dave
Hi Dave, I too haven't the faintest idea on this subject. All I can say is, my bottles are at the back of the van and the cooker is in the middle, but on opposite sides of each other.
 

Sparks

#5
Post Deleted
 
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#6
hi all

after some advice regarding installing a gas hob

basically im after the best way to pipe the gas from the bottle to the hob.. Ive always kept the gas bottle and the cooker in the vans no more than 1 meter apart but im wondering weather to put the bottle under the bed at the back of the van and piping it to the front..
its only a route of Max 3mtr (vwT4 swb)... but im thinking using the flexi stuff isn't the best way to go about it, what other good safe ways are there?? an by using it id be keeping the amount of joints in the system down... also is it best to run the pipe work under the van or internal (ill be looking at taking it to some cold climets tho so itll have to stand up with that)

i hope someone understands what im asking,

cheers for any help

dave
Hi Dave, I used 10mm mini bore copper tube and ran it from the back of my van to my hob behind the driver's seat. I used one length connected directly to the hob and at the bottle end I connected the copper onto a quarter turn gas cock (sourced off ebay), I connected the other side of the gas cock to the standard orange flexi tube which was then connected to the gas regulator on the bottle. I allowed a metre or more on the flexi tube to permit lifting the gas bottle outside the van to ease changing bottles,. Threading the copper tube from one end of the van to the other was easy, just take care not to kink the tube when bending. It will bend easily enough if you use wide lazy bends, alternatively you can get an external bending spring from your local plumbers merchant for a couple of quid. Take care not to put any strain on the pipe workin order to allow a little flexibility of movement from the van and use 10mm nail in clips to secure the tube. If you wish you can place any straight run of copper tube in electrical trunking (there is one trunking on the market with adhesive tape on the back that will stick directly to any flat, clean surface. A pressure drop test doesn't take many minutes and any decent plumber can do that for you.
I wouldn't consider routing pipework under the van. Butane and propane will freeze and why put two unecessary holes in your floor. You may want to also consider a gas drop outlet in your floor near the gas bottle to allow any leaking gas to escape.
Hope this is helpful

Jim
 

hextal

Full Member
#7
Don't think flexi is really meant to be used outside the gas locker, though as its for personal use rather than commercial its not such an issue. i just got 8mm copper and a pipe bender and will be routing internally. Though the tank is underslung .
 

jacks906

#8
Cheers for all the replys :)

Some very useful info.. going to get on with locating some solid pipe an fixings :)

I've not decided on were to put the tank yet for ease of disconnecting for traveling but ill take into consideration a sink vent when doing so as the spare wheel is under parts of the bed.

Cheers

Dave :)
 
#9
I would do it in Copper as much as possible and flexi for the last bit.

You are doing nothing illegal by running all the pipework but strictly obeying the regulations, an accredited gas engineer needs to test the installation and issue a certificate. Most selfbuilders don't bother I suppose, so it is up to you.

As you are asking for basic information on something you have no experience of, I would recommend getting someone experienced to cast their eye over the installation before turning on the gas tap.

As sparks said about joining copper to flexi, fit (and compress) an olive to the end of the copper pipe (about 10 mm from the end). The flexi will slide over the olive and a Jubilee clip will hold it.
 
#10
start at the bottle.fix a couple of feet of the orange reinforced flexi with a jubilee clip to the regulator.drill a 40mm gas drop out hole in the bottle compartment and under any gas joint outside of it.fix the flexi to this- Magnum Motorhomes - Viewing Product: and continue in 8mm[ 5/16 ] copper pipe,fix the bulkhead fitting securely.take the pipe through cupboards[or outside ,if you use propane it won't freeze but butane slows down quickly in cold weather]and connect to hob with a 8mm joint.check with soapy water brushed or sprayed on after turning on gas,and also just to check every couple of months or so. i never told you this.right ?
 

jacks906

#11
start at the bottle.fix a couple of feet of the orange reinforced flexi with a jubilee clip to the regulator.drill a 40mm gas drop out hole in the bottle compartment and under any gas joint outside of it.fix the flexi to this- Magnum Motorhomes - Viewing Product: and continue in 8mm[ 5/16 ] copper pipe,fix the bulkhead fitting securely.take the pipe through cupboards[or outside ,if you use propane it won't freeze but butane slows down quickly in cold weather]and connect to hob with a 8mm joint.check with soapy water brushed or sprayed on after turning on gas,and also just to check every couple of months or so. i never told you this.right ?

True i never read this lol... This was prity much how i was going to do it.. basically the same principle as doing brake lines on a van or trucks... If my plans right there will only be the joint between the solid pipe and the cooker will be the only joint outside of the gas box..

just wish the local caravan/camping shop is no longer going so time to start mooching on the web for parts :-D

Cheers
Dave
 
#12
True i never read this lol... This was prity much how i was going to do it.. basically the same principle as doing brake lines on a van or trucks... If my plans right there will only be the joint between the solid pipe and the cooker will be the only joint outside of the gas box..

just wish the local caravan/camping shop is no longer going so time to start mooching on the web for parts :-D

Cheers
Dave
i know from experience that magnums are quick
 
#13
I have just redone mine and i had to use copper pipe secured every 10cm, the 1st time i did i use flexible pipe and it would not pass the gas test.
 
#14
The hob I bought came with a 10mm connection. If you use 8mm tube you will need a 10mm to 8mm reducer at the hob connection. The wall mounted gas cock I bought has a 10mm compression connection on the outlet with a tail for the flexi tube to be fitted with a jubilee clip on the inlet. 10mm tube, if used, will have no adverse affect on the gas pressure.
The electric casing I described is a useful way of concealing any exposed gas pipe in the habitation area. Anyone being misled into thinking the casing hides electrical wire will be quickly disabused when the remove the snap on cover: not a big issue.
I take your point regarding the gas not freezing.
Plastic nail in clips are secure and will not create friction wear on the tube should ther be persistent or regular movent of the tube. They are not a bodge.
 
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#15
if you have the pipes,8mm fits very nicely into 10mm if sawn neatly and is then just a capillary joint to solder as normal
 
#17
i used to fit kitchens and bathrooms for goat farmers in provence,up in the pre alps and often made pyramid joints ,20-10mm etc.i'd actually come into the house at 28mm and the last bog would be 8mm,you'd always have half a metre or so of every size in your bag !
 

ellisboy

#18
I've just plumbed my hob in ,bought the 8mm copper pipe off eBay ,by the metre,good price and quick postage.
 

channa

Full Member
#19
Pipe sizing is part of the regulations and is dertermined using tables the distance travelled number of t joints elbows etc.
Ventilation and. Adequate securing are also part of issuing safety certificates.

Not as simple as just fitting 8 mm or 10 mm pipe....as others have mentioned copper pipi.g shod be used
Channa
 

channa

Full Member
#20
Also output of appliances used have an impact too
 

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