Carpet Lining advice please

delphi

Hello all, I am approaching the stage of carpet lining my project and this is now doing my head in. It is already ply lined and I nearly have all the wiring in. My question is should I take out the ply, line it with carpet lining and then try to get it back in place with the carpet on, or should I carpet line everything in-situ? Whats the thinking on this please??
 

delicagirl

I recently had some of the bulkheads of my van lined with thin ridged grey carpet - glued to the bulkhead.... it made a significant difference to my warmth at night - I don't know if that is what you mean ?
 

jagmanx

If your wooden/panelled floor is good.

I suggest a carpet which fits exactly but is whipped is best.
Then you dont have to stick it down and you can remove it both to give it a good clean/wash and to keep the underlying clean.
We also use a doormat on top of our carpet and again outside to reduce dirt/wear & tear:D

Ps I only stick things as a last resort.

eg if I were to use something which cannot be screwed I would stick it to a wooden or plastic sheet and then screw the said sheet to whatever
 
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zimba90

If it's possible, better to take the ply lining down, glue the carpet on (easy to make neat, wrap-over edges) then replace panels - on my previous projects I screwed carpeted panels to the supports using those metal screw cups or those plastic fold-over caps, looked good and could be easily removed to get at whatever is behind.

I originally tried using that spray on carpet glue but it was no good, OK for floors but not for walls, finally used contact adhesive which stuck like.............glue.
 

Debs

Forum Member
Hi, if you watch Mike McCann on YouTube, he does quite a few videos on converting vans including carpet lining. Personally I will be doing my lining in situ, as taking the boards down and then reinstating them is just too much extra work! :goodluck:
 

Polar Bear

Forum Member
I'm assuming you are talking about covering walls and ceiling?
We had a VW-T5 in the other week for work and whilst we had it the customer had arraigned to have his van lined with carpet. The fitter, who does nothing else but vans, simply sprayed both carpet and panel with glue stuck it on and then cut of the remnants. In the very few places the glue got onto the carpet he used a rag with a little machine oil on it. The glue come of without a trace.
I think he charged about £900 including carpet but not too sure.
If you need the name and number for this carpet fitter I think I can get it.
Good luck.
 

trevskoda

Forum Member
i have just lined mine this week ,cut carpet to size with a bit extra spay panels then fix at top working down with a dry paint roller then trim in with a shap s/knife,if you have windows like me then it gets hard i used a spoon with the handle end bent back about 5mm to pull out rubber as i fed the carpet in with a blunt pallet knife easy peasy.
 
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simonl

I had a similar conundrum when doing my vito interior - in the end I chose both options depending on panel placement

- door panels - which you are likely to have to remove to get to mechanisms etc are usually held in place by plastic re-usable rivets - remove the panel, spray the panel up with plenty of quality spray glue - cover with carpet - smoothed out by hand/with a roller as applied.
I chose not to wrap the edges on these and instead trimmed back to the edge with a single edge razor blade ( watch those fingers!) - by not wrapping the edges it means you don't create too much extra thickness on the panels and can then refit using original trim clips (after trimming out the carpet that covers the pre-existing holes) - this gives a "factory" look on removable panels.

Anything structural or which will remain in situ I carpeted in place in the van - this allows you to cover and account for any panel gaps etc and gives imo a nicer overall look to the finished product, in places where cables had been run that I may need to get to - due to my design I was able to have removable access panels hidden within cupboard - or could still gain access by removing a speaker etc - though this is a fairly basic conversion - I worked on the principal that its pretty unlikely to need to replace an entire wire or cable - so access to fuses, connectors etc was all that is necessary ( if a cable needs to be re run I will do it by attaching new cable to the old and pulling through which saves hassle anyway ;) ) - again edges can be finished in situ with a steady hand and a sharp blade - as suggested earlier most window trims will have enough movement in them to allow tucking the edge behind with a bit of gentle leverage

Having spent 4 years retrimming Mercedes and BMW interiors I can say that the main thing to remember is - don't be shy with the spray glue!
pre heating the can gently with a hot air gun/ hairdryer until its warm to the touch helps
(ONLY WARM TO THE TOUCH - NEVER OVERHEAT A PRESSURISED CONTAINER)
- make sure you spray it from about 12 inches away using even strokes
( if necessary use a piece of card or similar to mask off any areas you don't want covered in glue)
- you should be aiming for it to look like a spider web with an even coverage and no gaps near any panel edges to prevent it peeling back at a later date
- ideally you should leave the glue until its tacky to the touch before applying the carpet
- don't be tempted to put the carpet straight on as the glue takes a while to "set"
- this works way better in a warm environment than cold - so if you have a workshop/garage then great :)
- if you are doing it outside in these temps then id suggest a hot air gun or even a hair dryer to give the glue a quick blast as you wait for it to become tacky.
for large areas being covered in one piece make sure you have someone handy to help - and that they understand how you will be fitting it - it never hurts to do a "dry run" without glue to see how you will manouver the carpet and yourselves within a confined space ;)
Again - for large areas, don't glue the entire surface at once or you will have a wrestling match on your hands with the carpet - instead glue up in sections say 1-2 ft width but full height - this allows you to position it evenly as you go along

most spray glues will not bond instantly - so if you get ripples/positioning wrong there is normally plenty of time to gently pull the carpet back and re apply - so don't panic!

I bought my carpet and glue from Ebay - plenty of options out there - ideally you want a carpet that is reasonably thin - which will allow stretching in both directions for those awkward corners, if you have to cut and fold corners- again - work out how you will do it before applying the glue , just think of it like wrapping a present and you can't go far wrong - leave an excess an trim back once finished - you can always take a bit more off - but you can't add it back on!

take your time, practice on scraps of carpet and wood before you start, plenty of sharp blaeds and most important - give yourself a pat on the back once you finish for your newly found skill!

good luck!
 

Rob H

Carpet lining advice.

Hi Delphi,

All good previous advice, its easy to do yourself, there's many lining material options, but most popular and easiest for "learn as you go triming for diy newbi' is carpet specifically for lining out vehicles.

Browse E Bay, for example, company ... Bespoke Foam Supplies, They are good for telephone advice. Two basic types of carpet, one 'non stretch' for flat panels, and one '2 way stretch' for vehicle internal curved panels say wheel arches. Spray Glue of choice is High Temperature Trimix Adhesive, this is good for carpet, flooring vinyls, and laminates for work surfaces. Cutting carpet, ... Stanley knife, plus pack of three Stanley Craft Knives from B&Q.

If you can, remove your flat ply panels and cut your flat carpet oversize so you've got at least 60mm overlap behind panel. Any 'curved corners', cutout v's in the overlap behind the panel. I fastened my 6mm ply panels using M6 'Rivnuts' into internal metalwork, (Make Ends Meet Ltd / Memfast .co), and M6 Countersunk CSK Allen screw bolts with 2 piece colour matched plastic screw caps. (Falcon Workshop Supplies).

Use the 'stretch' carpet on your chosen fixed vehicle metalwork, take a look on 'You tube' at clips showing stretch carpet being fitted onto wheel arches, for inspiration, can usually tuck some edges under rubber draught seals around door apertures, leave the 60mm overlap for your replaced carpeted panels to cover.

Final tips, there is a slight pile 'lay', beat the carpet to let it know whose boss, before spraying glue on it, ... (to remove the loose gritty dust from its manufacture) ... Use a piece of scrap cardboard as a masking tool to stop excess Trimfix glue overspraying onto internal metal bodywork paintwork. (Remove excess glue from paintwork with petrol).

When you've mastered carpet trimming, try curtains and rails, now there's a real challenge, lol.

Rob H.
 

molly 2

Hello all, I am approaching the stage of carpet lining my project and this is now doing my head in. It is already ply lined and I nearly have all the wiring in. My question is should I take out the ply, line it with carpet lining and then try to get it back in place with the carpet on, or should I carpet line everything in-situ? Whats the thinking on this please??

Are you carpeting the floor or lining the walls
 

delphi

Sorry, I should have said it is the walls and the ceiling. Thanks for the replies, some of these are hugely helpful, I am a lot less baffled by it all now!
 

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