Bought this a Classic webasto diesel heater,

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Classic webasto diesel heater, fully serviced and ( new burner mat and sensor) at cost of £340 .Output is 2.4 KW . The unit runs in 3 modes - full power / medium and low. Included is:

  • main unit HL24
  • Fuel pump with snap in cable
  • New exhaust pipe (inside heat shield)
  • Air intake & silencer pipe
  • Wiring harness & control box
  • Thermostat & sensor.
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Email I received from the seller

The unit was serviced by a guy called Steve Purley
who was recommended to me by a local boatyard. He is self employed and has a workshop close to Reading and Webastos seem to be his thing. He had the unit for @2weeks while he got the various seals gaskets exhaust pipe clamps sensor Matt and what ever else you do to a complete overhaul of a heater. I don’t have any receipt. Subsequently I have looked at my messages and can see his texts and the final cost which hit £415 which I could probably show you.
 
Last edited:

wildebus

Forum Member
The advert heading

webasto diesel heater 12 volt complete​

You really are a tease
If It is 24 volt it will be going back
I thought the 24 was down to its Output of 2.4 KW



I really didn't know.

Seen a control box for one of these up for sale ..... £333 +VAT for JUST the box! looks like a good deal you got there :)
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Seen a control box for one of these up for sale ..... £333 +VAT for JUST the box! looks like a good deal you got there :)
I must have done OK then I paid

webasto diesel heater 12 volt complete​


Used condition
“Good - fully serviced / overhauled”
Ended:
01 Apr, 2021 21:05:08 BST
Winning bid:
£156.69
[ 11 bids ]
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Here are one or two subtle differences between the Webasto HL24 and the Eberspacher D1LC and D1L.


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First of all, huge weight difference; the Webasto case is made of metal, except for the two ends, but the main and obvious one is dimensions. In the picture when I was buying the Webasto I had no idea the difference in size, I'm now just hoping it will fit where the original Chinese heater was.........without making too much of a hole.

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Here we have an end on shot, should give you some idea in the difference of heater ducting size.

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Here we have three end caps. The other two, at the bottom, fit easily inside each other.

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The underside: totally different hole configuration so a new plate will have to be fitted. The Webasto heater is also rubber mounted so the base plate will have to be made of something substantial. The two elbows come as std., the inlet is made of plastic and the exhaust, stainless steel.

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Three pumps. The middle one is an Eberspacher and the last one Chinese. All do the same job but I'm looking forward to putting some power through the Webasto pump and test how it sounds. I've done this experiment before; I drop the pump in a glass jar with some diesel in it and then power it up, flicking the positive wire over the terminal and it is amazing the difference in sound between the Chinese pump and the Eberspacher pump. I shall now do this with the Webasto pump and see if there is any difference.

Rae
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
As it was too cold to go outside I decided to stay inside in the warmth. As my van is at the auto-electricians, trying to find the fault that has been plaguing me for the last three years, I thought it was a good opportunity to get some cardboard out and make up a mock base plate.

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Well I know how big the base plate is, as I cut the hole out myself with a hole cutter, so I found some cardboard, drew round the outside of the cutter and then cut the cardboard. As you can see, I might be lucky and just get the inlet and outlet pipes through but I think it is going to be very tight.

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I will not make any decisions until the van is back at the house.
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
HELP REQUIRED

Could somebody explain to me how this works? This is the inlet silencer off the diesel heater; I took it apart to see what was inside, basically, it's two tubes with some fibreglass insulation in the middle. Now I can understand how that works but what I don't understand is why they have drilled holes in the centre tube. As both ends are sealed up on the outer tube there is no way for the intake of air to enter except through the centre tube so I cannot see what advantage can be gained by drilling the holes in the centre tube.

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End on shot. Sealed end and you can see the fibreglass insulation.

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StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Thanks lads for the feedback, it is truly appreciated. I've been busy this afternoon making an inlet pipe. As you can see, I've covered the pipe in masking tape and marked off where the holes are going to be: in fact, there are 121 little red dots that need to be drilled but that's a job for tomorrow; as long as it's not freezing outside.

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Before I stuck the masking tape on I had to expand the end of the pipe, so this required softening the aluminium pipe. I achieved this by rubbing a bar of soap over the end that I wanted softened and then heating it up until the soap goes black; hopefully, this should indicate that the aluminium has softened. This is the only way I know of doing this job as most metals you can see them change colour.

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Expanding the pipe, easy enough job, find a socket that is the right size that you want the pipe to be and then knock it in to the pipe. In this particular case I had to use two sockets, one with a good chamfer and the second one to finish the job off: makes a nice fit.
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Air filter on the external air inlet pipe................... does any one have one fitted............. your thoughts please

Been looking at things like this

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SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Without wanting to read as rude, it depends where you put it. The paper elements don't like the wet. I like to put my intake away from wet and road dirt.
 

StreetSleeper

Forum Member
Without wanting to read as rude, it depends where you put it. The paper elements don't like the wet. I like to put my intake away from wet and road dirt.
As tight as I can to the underneath of the floor and right behind the bulkhead . We do a lot of wilding on grass or on the coast line with dusty, sandy car parks
 

mistericeman

Forum Member
K and N and foam types are about THE worst for transmitting induction noise...
The perforated tube type (as per the original webasto/Eber types are far better at dampening induction noise in my experience....
I've seen mini moto/pit bike exhausts used to great effectiveness on the combustion exhaust side.


Though they do vary in quality....

To be honest I can barely hear my eberspacher from more than a foot away with just the standard eberspacher inlet/exhaust silencers...
So I've never bothered going any further.
 

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