240v testing circuit problem

philgb

Finished the 12v system and all working well. Thanks to bril advice from WC

Installed the 240v system and am getting a warning from my Kew technic socket see 30 tester, which is giving a warble tone. 2 red lights and 1 green indicating P-E reverse
Which I think indicates an positive earth reverse?

The system enters the van via traditional coupling, 18inch of cable to the rcd on the consumer unit which is a small garage rcd/mcb type. Then to 4 single pole sockets In series All wired with 16amp+ cable and connected to the 16amp mcb.

Earth lead I have joined with the incoming earth lead plus taken to the vehicle chasis.

Soooooo obviously I have done something wrong but cannot figure out what. As I dont fancy frying myself any of you any suggestions. Besides the obvious of calling in an qualified electrician.
 

philgb

Ow hell, just had a eureka moment..... I googled the problem and took a good look at correct mcb/rcd wiring diagrams and guess what... my unit purchased on ebay that came from China came with destructions completly different from correct connections. Not being an electrician but pretty handy, just followed the destructions and ensured all wiring was well installed and connected correctly (except for the rcd unit)

Tell you what, I am lucky I didnt do some serious damage to myself or the van. Lesson learned, not everything sold on ebay from China is a good bargain.
Mrs gb is doin her nut at me for being so stupid.
 

GRWXJR

I'm not a sparky either (though have some electrickery experience and work with diesel-electric generators) but....

I thought (in house wiring that is) that you should only take a 'spur' of 1 socket off a ring main, and not more than one. Also that if running a series of more than one socket that they should be on a ring (i.e. all the sockets one after the other, with the last one looped back to the consumer unit where the original leg started)?

Yet the OP states a row in series (so I'm assuming NOT a ring main)?

So... should the ring main principle also be followed when installing an AC circuit in a van - or is it different?

I don't know the answer for sure - so would be interested in finding out what self-builders (or indeed the coachbuilt of course) do with AC circuits.

Regards, G.
 

sparrks

GRWXJR said:
I'm not a sparky either (though have some electrickery experience and work with diesel-electric generators) but....

I thought (in house wiring that is) that you should only take a 'spur' of 1 socket off a ring main, and not more than one. Also that if running a series of more than one socket that they should be on a ring (i.e. all the sockets one after the other, with the last one looped back to the consumer unit where the original leg started)?

Yet the OP states a row in series (so I'm assuming NOT a ring main)?

So... should the ring main principle also be followed when installing an AC circuit in a van - or is it different?

I don't know the answer for sure - so would be interested in finding out what self-builders (or indeed the coachbuilt of course) do with AC circuits.

Regards, G.
Click to expand...

This will explain it easier than me :) http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.3.2.htm
 

QFour

Its all down to the load on the circuit. If you have a ring main then you have two ends of a cable going back to the consumer unit. Each cable can carry 16amps so you use a 32amp fuse and that protects the circuit. If you have a single wire system then you use a 16amp fuse to protect it. It just means that if you connected a toaster and a fan heater and an electric kettle you would pop the fuse whereas if it was a ring main with a 32amp fuse you would be ok. you can have a spur of a ring main but you would normally have a 13amp fuse in the plug so it would be ok. If it was a double socket with 2 items plugged in both taking 13amps then the cable may get warm but then it also depends how long it is.

Tricky stuff this electricity. It bites as well

..
 
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sparrks

User1 said:
Its all down to the load on the circuit. If you have a ring main then you have two ends of a cable going back to the consumer unit. Each cable can carry 16amps so you use a 32amp fuse and that protects the circuit. If you have a single wire system then you use a 16amp fuse to protect it. It just means that if you connected a toaster and a fan heater and an electric kettle you would pop the fuse whereas if it was a ring main with a 32amp fuse you would be ok. you can have a spur of a ring main but you would normally have a 13amp fuse in the plug so it would be ok. If it was a double socket with 2 items plugged in both taking 13amps then the cable may get warm but then it also depends how long it is.

Tricky stuff this electricity. It bites as well

..
Click to expand...

2.5mm T&E is normally used for domestic ring circuits, the cable has a typical load rating of 28A.
 

GRWXJR

Cheers both. I was aware of the current etc... I get it though that the size loadings on a van circuit are never likely to be heavy enough to affect the voltage on the end of a series of sockets (not going to happen on a ring main) and of course there's a lot less 13A sockets in a van circuit compared to a house etc. etc.

I just thought the ring main thing was good practice - but accept that's its perhaps not really necessary on the small AC socket array in a van.
 

sparrks

GRWXJR said:
Cheers both. I was aware of the current etc... I get it though that the size loadings on a van circuit are never likely to be heavy enough to affect the voltage on the end of a series of sockets (not going to happen on a ring main) and of course there's a lot less 13A sockets in a van circuit compared to a house etc. etc.

I just thought the ring main thing was good practice - but accept that's its perhaps not really necessary on the small AC socket array in a van.
Click to expand...

Radial circuit is more than sufficient - the Commando plug/socket that you use on your hookup lead will no doubt be a 16A, and on hookup you will probably have a max supply of 10A
 
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